Made a visit to Pettit Racing
#1
Made a visit to Pettit Racing
I happened to be driving into South Florida for a cousin’s wedding and I realized Pettit Racing’s shop is right off the highway so I decided to make a visit. I had spoken to Cam, the owner, a few times over the past few weeks as I was obtaining advice on my recently acquired 2005 RX-8.
If anyone saw my recent posts I bought my RX-8 primarily as a track car which can still be driven on the street occasionally. I’ve been trying to figure out the optimal cooling and oiling for my car.
Cam gave some great advice. First off, he advised I use 1.5oz/gallon of his Protek-R oil in the gas tank ALONG WITH using that oil in my Sohn metering pump. He said he doesn’t rely on the metering pump giving enough lubrication, especially for track purposes. He also recommended I drop my coolant to 20-30% and use water wetter to help keep the car cooler on the track. He also sold me the secondary coolant clear reservoir tank so my system becomes “closed” to lock out any potential air bubbles. (I already have his aluminum over-flow tank installed.). He also sold me a 16psi radiator cap to help to increase the system’s boiling point. (I currently have a 13psi.)
Before I left home I completely flushed my system twice with distilled water and filled it with Mazda’s FL-22 fluid. I guess when I return I’ll drain some (maybe 0.7 gallons) and then add enough distilled water (and then water wetter or purple ice) to get the coolant percent to 30%. I live in GA so still want a little freeze protection since the car may be driven when it’s in the 30’s outside.
I’m really hoping all these changes help bring my track peak water temps down some. (I already have a BHR/Griffin radiator and Davies Craig electric water pump.)
Cam’s a great guy and I really enjoyed speaking with him. If my car eventually needs engine services it will definitely be seeing his shop.
I’ll give an update once I make all the changes.
Later!
If anyone saw my recent posts I bought my RX-8 primarily as a track car which can still be driven on the street occasionally. I’ve been trying to figure out the optimal cooling and oiling for my car.
Cam gave some great advice. First off, he advised I use 1.5oz/gallon of his Protek-R oil in the gas tank ALONG WITH using that oil in my Sohn metering pump. He said he doesn’t rely on the metering pump giving enough lubrication, especially for track purposes. He also recommended I drop my coolant to 20-30% and use water wetter to help keep the car cooler on the track. He also sold me the secondary coolant clear reservoir tank so my system becomes “closed” to lock out any potential air bubbles. (I already have his aluminum over-flow tank installed.). He also sold me a 16psi radiator cap to help to increase the system’s boiling point. (I currently have a 13psi.)
Before I left home I completely flushed my system twice with distilled water and filled it with Mazda’s FL-22 fluid. I guess when I return I’ll drain some (maybe 0.7 gallons) and then add enough distilled water (and then water wetter or purple ice) to get the coolant percent to 30%. I live in GA so still want a little freeze protection since the car may be driven when it’s in the 30’s outside.
I’m really hoping all these changes help bring my track peak water temps down some. (I already have a BHR/Griffin radiator and Davies Craig electric water pump.)
Cam’s a great guy and I really enjoyed speaking with him. If my car eventually needs engine services it will definitely be seeing his shop.
I’ll give an update once I make all the changes.
Later!
The following users liked this post:
sinkas (07-21-2019)
#3
Project Seca
iTrader: (10)
I would advise against putting any additives into your cooling system if you are running any percent of coolant at all. Those additives are suited for individuals running 100% water and sludge/buildup can result from the products coming in contact with coolant.
I lived in South Florida for years and dealt with plenty of hot summers. You are overthinking the coolant stuff. Stick with straight FL22, it will do just fine. Get a better, high quality radiator and ensure that you have it properly sealed along the edges as well as that the fans are working properly.
Additionally, new belts installed and replace your thermostat with a new one.
I lived in South Florida for years and dealt with plenty of hot summers. You are overthinking the coolant stuff. Stick with straight FL22, it will do just fine. Get a better, high quality radiator and ensure that you have it properly sealed along the edges as well as that the fans are working properly.
Additionally, new belts installed and replace your thermostat with a new one.
#4
I would advise against putting any additives into your cooling system if you are running any percent of coolant at all. Those additives are suited for individuals running 100% water and sludge/buildup can result from the products coming in contact with coolant.
I lived in South Florida for years and dealt with plenty of hot summers. You are overthinking the coolant stuff. Stick with straight FL22, it will do just fine. Get a better, high quality radiator and ensure that you have it properly sealed along the edges as well as that the fans are working properly.
Additionally, new belts installed and replace your thermostat with a new one.
I lived in South Florida for years and dealt with plenty of hot summers. You are overthinking the coolant stuff. Stick with straight FL22, it will do just fine. Get a better, high quality radiator and ensure that you have it properly sealed along the edges as well as that the fans are working properly.
Additionally, new belts installed and replace your thermostat with a new one.
Thanks for the advice.
I have been reading about the issues with sludge by using the water wetter products. Perhaps I will hold off.
#5
#7
Registered
iTrader: (25)
All RX8s have a closed loop coolant system. While it could be run without a pressure cap with Evans water-less coolant they still say to go ahead and use the OE cap. With the aluminum surge tank you could probably get away with a 21-23 psig racing cap for a bit more boiling resistance using water-based coolant.
In time you won’t guzzle the koolade so enthusiastically ...
In time you won’t guzzle the koolade so enthusiastically ...
#8
All RX8s have a closed loop coolant system. While it could be run without a pressure cap with Evans water-less coolant they still say to go ahead and use the OE cap. With the aluminum surge tank you could probably get away with a 21-23 psig racing cap for a bit more boiling resistance using water-based coolant.
In time you won’t guzzle the koolade so enthusiastically ...
In time you won’t guzzle the koolade so enthusiastically ...
Are you saying the Pettit Racing secondary reservoir tank was a waste??
#10
That's a good question and I wanting to see where other people mounted their secondary reservoir. When I was at Pettit I saw a stock RX-8 where it was mounted directly in front of the washer tank. I believe that's the intended location.
However, I have the Sohn metering pump in that location now and don't know where else I can mount the tank. Anyone else have any input or recommendations?
It needs a good solid location.
Thanks.
#11
Boosted Kiwi
iTrader: (2)
1.5oz/gallon premix PLUS omp oil is a **** ton of oil ! The omp actually supplies enough oil for track duty but is light in the cruising ranges.... and most people use 100:1 (which is less than 1.5/gal) premix when there is NO omp.
Sounds WAY over the top to me !
Sounds WAY over the top to me !
Last edited by Brettus; 07-30-2019 at 06:41 PM.
#14
Do you mind explaining how the OMP supplies enough oil for track duty, but is light when cruising?
Does it supply more oil in the higher RPM ranges?
Thanks.
#15
Boosted Kiwi
iTrader: (2)
At low load and rpm however, the consumption is minute . Mazda did this to meet emissions and it is in those ranges where it is beneficial to add oil. This can be done by reflashing your ecu.
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