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Mazda rx8 rotary engine life? 100k?

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Old 11-28-2017 | 12:46 AM
  #226  
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Mine blew at 104k
Old 11-29-2017 | 02:47 PM
  #227  
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MO Original Engine at 108,000 heading to shop today

My 2004 with original engine started bogging down on the freeway yesterday. It was while accelerating. After it slowed down a bit it would the accelerate again. I pulled it off the road and it died at the end of the ramp. Starts slow and seems to fight to keep constant rpm. What would you check in what order?
If this is the wrong place could someone help me post it in the correct one? thank you in advance.
Old 11-29-2017 | 05:15 PM
  #228  
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Engine symptom troubleshooting.

M A Z D A
Old 11-29-2017 | 06:38 PM
  #229  
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Originally Posted by Michelle Davidson
My 2004 with original engine started bogging down on the freeway yesterday. It was while accelerating. After it slowed down a bit it would the accelerate again. I pulled it off the road and it died at the end of the ramp. Starts slow and seems to fight to keep constant rpm. What would you check in what order?
If this is the wrong place could someone help me post it in the correct one? thank you in advance.
I would check the ignition components(coils, wires and spark plugs) as well as the catalytic converter.

Get a compression check as well. Remember you need special one for rotary engines.
Old 12-01-2017 | 03:41 PM
  #230  
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Originally Posted by Blueeight
Mine blew at 104k
So it stopped running? I’m guessing your engine is suffering from low compression, necessitating replacement. But your engine “blew at 104k”? How dramatic! You’re not the first to say that on this forum, but it is not, in fact, true. Unless your engine suddenly stopped and will no longer run, it didn’t “blow”. “Blown engines” do happen, but generally not with rotaries; that’s a piston engine phenomenon. I can provide details of exactly what a blown engine entails, if you’re curious. Just ask!
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Old 12-01-2017 | 05:28 PM
  #231  
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You can't provide ****, you can't even get your oil changed without starting a ridiculous thread about how to prevent overfilling so what does a noob like you know about engine failure?
Old 12-01-2017 | 06:28 PM
  #232  
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Well that was a little aggressive.
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Old 12-01-2017 | 10:39 PM
  #233  
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
You can't provide ****, you can't even get your oil changed without starting a ridiculous thread about how to prevent overfilling so what does a noob like you know about engine failure?
There you go again. I first changed my own oil over 40 years ago, noob. And the thread I started was about preventing overfilling when you're unable to change your own oil, i.e. when the dealer or some other garage does it. I have found that my regular dealer and a local garage both seem unable to change the oil without overfilling it. It follows that if I've encountered this problem from two sources, others have also. And that makes it a perfectly valid subject for a thread. Needless to say, if one is changing their own oil, it's easy to avoid overfilling. Hell, I suspect even you could manage that.
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Old 12-23-2017 | 10:32 PM
  #234  
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Don't argue with New Yorker or 9krpm or the other rotary veterans here. They know their shizznit (for real).

They are also helpful peeps.

Anyways, I have not checked in for a while so SITREP

My 2005 6MT Sport one has 144,000 miles on original'engine and still runs like new.

I've only done routine maintenance (oil/filter changes, coolant flush/fills,'brake pads/rotors, two batteries, spark plugs at 100k, etc.).

Zero rust even in rear wheel wells despite 12 salt-belt winters (driven year round on snows in winter - I do spray CRC Heavy Duty Marine or Amsoil HD Metal Protector on frame rails and rear sheep's'arches, especially under lip in fall ).

No squeaks or rattles whatsoever.

Car literally runs like new.

I have one problem that just popped up - passenger side door lock actuater or something is toast. I have to manually reach over and lock/unlock passenger door as FOB won't work (it makes clicking noise but does not lock/unlock).

I LOVE THIS CAR. It's been the most reliable car I've owned and I don't even go anywhere near Rotary OMG OCD with the maintenance.

If I did have to replace it tomorrow for some unforseen reason, I have no idea what comes close for what I paid new even in inflation adjusted dollars, but would maybe consider an Audi S5, VW GTI,..
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Old 12-24-2017 | 12:49 PM
  #235  
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From: Eagle Rock
Originally Posted by RotoRocket
Don't argue with New Yorker or 9krpm or the other rotary veterans here. They know their shizznit (for real).

They are also helpful peeps.

Anyways, I have not checked in for a while so SITREP

My 2005 6MT Sport one has 144,000 miles on original'engine and still runs like new.

I've only done routine maintenance (oil/filter changes, coolant flush/fills,'brake pads/rotors, two batteries, spark plugs at 100k, etc.).

Zero rust even in rear wheel wells despite 12 salt-belt winters (driven year round on snows in winter - I do spray CRC Heavy Duty Marine or Amsoil HD Metal Protector on frame rails and rear sheep's'arches, especially under lip in fall ).

No squeaks or rattles whatsoever.

Car literally runs like new.

I have one problem that just popped up - passenger side door lock actuater or something is toast. I have to manually reach over and lock/unlock passenger door as FOB won't work (it makes clicking noise but does not lock/unlock).

I LOVE THIS CAR. It's been the most reliable car I've owned and I don't even go anywhere near Rotary OMG OCD with the maintenance.

If I did have to replace it tomorrow for some unforseen reason, I have no idea what comes close for what I paid new even in inflation adjusted dollars, but would maybe consider an Audi S5, VW GTI,..

My 2005 Shinka Roto always driven hard, died at 83K, but shoved a Mazda rebuild in there. Still cheaper than any used, or new car. Love this machine. Using 2 cycle premix now. Maybe 100K next time?
Old 12-24-2017 | 04:09 PM
  #236  
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Hello everyone I'm new to this so hope I get it right. I have a 2005 and I've had the plugs and wires changed our changed and it still won't run a code of P0076 has been pulled any and all suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance
Old 12-24-2017 | 05:25 PM
  #237  
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From: Montreal
Originally Posted by Billie L. Shadle
Hello everyone I'm new to this so hope I get it right. I have a 2005 and I've had the plugs and wires changed our changed and it still won't run a code of P0076 has been pulled any and all suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance
That code is for a failed intake valve solenoid. Fairly common problem, but it won't prevent the car from starting unless the valve is also stuck. You'll have to determine which of the 3 has failed: the SSV, APV or VDI and replace the corresponding solenoid. SSV seems to be the most common one.

The spark plugs and wires are a good bit of preventative maintenance, but since you're new you'll really want to make sure the ignition coils are replaced as well. . That may be why the car doesn't run.

I suggest starting your own thread in the new member section
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