I'm a little ignorant with the whole push/pull starting method.

So to push start an 8 (or any car?) either give it a good push or roll it down a hill while in neutral, depress the clutch, THEN bump it into second gear and start to crank it? Or do you just pop the clutch?

Same thing with pull starting- so the car gets towed using the hooks while it's in neutral then do you put it in second gear and dump the clutch hoping it starts or do you put it into gear and crank it?

I know this sounds pretty stupid, but I've never done this before so I'm not sure the exact order of things. Can somebody please clarify step by step EXACTLY how to push start and pull start? Thanks.

And congrats CLMantis, looks like you saved yourself a good bit of cash.

Oh and thanks RG- It sounds like you got this guy going.

 

even if I am out of warranty?

As a matter of fact I was wondering about that the other day. Can I still get the latest flashes done if I'm out of warranty? And, can I still have any recalls that arent done yet performed?

I'm at 60,500 miles.

 

When I tow start a car, I always use 2nd gear. I never use 1st. This applies to push and pull starting although you might want to try 1st when push starting. I've done it both ways.

Here's the procedure to pull start. Keep in mind you never want to use the starter. This is why you are pulling it. You are using the road and drivetrain as your starter. What I do is put the car in 2nd gear with the key in the "on" position. I hold the clutch in while the tow vehicle starts pulling. Immediately after starting to move (5 mph or so), I let the clutch out while in 2nd gear and let the engine spin over from being towed. It'll usually start up immediately. Depending on how bad it's flooded it might have to be pulled farther. I've gone up to 2 miles at over 20 mph before and engine started. That engine was an extreme case that had literally been flooded. As in flood waters. Drained the intake, intercooler, exhaust, engine, etc. Added ATF into the intake and pulled it. It started and got full compression back. What an awesome engine! Anyways, if you can't start a rotary this way, there is something wrong with either the ignition or fuel system. This narrows it down pretty quick as I've even started an engine with a blown apex seal this way!

After your car is started, be smart about how you and the person pulling you slow down and stop. Typically the car in back is the brakes for both cars. What I do once it is started is I put my foot back on the clutch and rev the engine up. I honk the horn. Both the revving and the horn tell the person pulling that it is started. This tells them I'm about to hit the brakes to slow us BOTH down. Once I have the vehicles stopped, make sure there is slack and disconnect the tow strap. The biggest mistake I see people do when towing vehicles of any kind with tow ropes is knowing how to brake. The car in front is the accelerator. The car in back is the brakes. The car in front can use their brakes but there must always be tension on the tow strap which means the rear car is doing most of the braking for both. If you don't keep slack on the tow strap, you run the risk of snapping it. At the very least it's a rough ride and you look stupid doing it!

Hopefully this helps. This is my automatic method that I've used for over the past decade to start or attempt to start any rotary that doesn't want to. When everything works properly, it has never once failed me. The only times it didn't work was when there was either no fuel or spark. You don't need to have a tow truck or flatbed pick you up to take you to a dealership. Don't even waste your time pulling the plugs out to clean them. If it's flooded and you can't push start it after more than 2 attempts, pull it. It's fast and works everytime!

This only applies to manual transmission equipped vehicles. For autos it's a pain in the *** to unflood it but you still don't need a dealership. You do need lots of patience, a battery charger, and a basic understanding of simple tools and maintenance. I can get into this later. It sucks!

 

From what I've read, it seems like you get the car to move in neutral, then dump the clutch in 2nd gear so that all the gasoline will be pumpe'd out of the engine then you start the car like normal.

 

Wow. Great description RG, that really helps. Thanks!

 

yeah. someone correct me if i'm wrong, but the flash recalls and spark updates are mandatory recalls... meaning if a car comes into a dealer and it needs a recall update, it has to be performed by the dealer at no cost to the current owner. so if you haven't gotten the latest plugs or flash updates, any dealer has to do them for free, eh? id est, free plugs!

 

and it doesn't hurt to call and ask. i'm pretty sure they have to be free, but it doesn't kill to check.

 

Just take it to a maz dealer and get it done, if you haven't done it. It's all free. It's a mandatory recall. So it doesn't have anything to do with warranty IMO. When I went and got it done, they replaced my battery, spark plugs and starter for free. hehe.