Interesting. I was rolling back today myself before I street light. The car behind me was close and I was worrying, because I had to get going quick when that light turned green. You guessed it! The light turned green and I stalled. My problem is not giving enough gas to get going. So I'm in panic mode, only God knows why I revved it up to 6k RPM from stopped. I did eventually get going after a very jerky take off from 1st. I then pull into the restaurant, get out of my car, and all I can smell is the clutch burning.
So yeah, that experience kinda sucked.

So your saying to put the ebrake into the lowest level it goes when going uphill from stopped? Then put it back once you get going? Sounds like a good idea. It would be VERY minor wear because it would only be for a couple of seconds.

Rolling back has to be the biggest problem with MTs. Luckily there aren't really any hilly areas around here.

 

Umm...if you're on a steep incline, have the e-brake all the way up. What you do is, get into first gear. To start moving, step on the gas (you probably want to go up to 3-4k), put the ebrake down and instantly let off the clutch slowly. It takes a little practice.

If it's just an incline, I don't worry about the e-brake. You just have to get off the brakes and onto the gas quicker than usual.

It'll come naturally...I remember having the same embarrassments (I got my car mid-August). Stalling when you're first at the green light is just...

 

Yep... horrible feeling.

The incline I was on wasn't that bad, but enough to roll slowely backwards. Perhaps once I'm faster with starting in 1st, this won't be a problem.

 

Yep, that's gonna happen. Under-rev and then over-rev. One thing you will notice is that as you start engaging the clutch, the engine will become loaded and so you will have to keep giving it more gas. So it's kinda a "feedback" thing: if you feel the engine bog as the clutch is being let out, add more gas.

Raptor2k is right that you pull the e-brake all the way up (or for me, most of the way up, about 80%). I usually like to start letting go of the clutch and giving it gas while the e-brake is up, and only when I feel the clutch engaging, the car wanting to go, then I release the e-brake.

If you can find a parking lot with a big speed bump/hump, it's a good way to practice uphill. Practice first starts and getting your wheels halfway up on the bump. Then stop and attempt to start and go over the bump. Or any parking lot with a steeper incline helps. One thing that helped me there is that since I know that nobody's behind me in this parking lot, I can roll back 6 feet if I want to... so knowing that, I just took my time getting on the gas and off the clutch. So I'd roll back 2-3 feet initially, but I quickly narrowed it down to a foot or so through practice.

 

The full-on-parking-brake-on-a-hill is an excellent technique for a beginner; more experienced clutchers tend to use it only on extreme hills but while you're learning don't feel at all about doing it on any hill that's difficult for you. Let me state differently how to do it.

You put the brake on full, the clutch down, the shifter in 1st, your hand on the hand brake, ready to release it. Now, when you're set to go, you give it a little gas and clutch to the sweet-spot, where it's starting to engage-- the point at which you'd normally just be starting to move, except now you're not moving, instead the car is starting to strain against the brake. That's all you need, just a little bit of straining against the brake, and then you release the brake, and you're off. It's actually pretty easy. Just make sure you give it enough gas so that it doesn't stall against the brake, yet not too much, so you don't go FLYING away.

Don't worry too much about getting fast enough to not need this trick, that will come naturally with time. Again, it's something I still use on a steep hill.

Krankor
05 Shinka 6MT

 

Great information guys, appreciate it. :D

I really shouldn't have to worry about it, the only slopes around here are VERY minor. Nothing like a big hill.

 

Um,

I would look over that paperwork long a hard. A lease deal @ $200 a month seems to good to be true.. .and if it seems it, then it usually is. How many miles a year do you get?

 

BTW -- That would either make your negotiated price somewhere around the $13,000 mark or your residual somewhere around the $24,000 mark. Assuming a sticker of around $30k. Either way I can't see a $30k car selling for $13k or being worth $24k after two years... Something is wrong. Hopefully it won't come back on you..

 

Practice, practice, practice. You shouldn't need to use your e-brake on an incline unless your on snow or ice once you have enough experience. But knowing exactly what Detroit winters are like, you definitely need to get some different tires on before the first snowstorm. At least if you depend on your 8 to get around (ie. if you work for a living).
Otherwise, on bad days you can bum a ride from a friend or something if you are in school. Be careful out there, driving a stick requires more attention and awareness of what you are doing, especially when the weather conditions break down. So you have about a couple of months to get some good hours behind the wheel and prepare yourself. Good luck.

 

I'm not lying. The other dealer I went to gave me around $400 for the same lease, with 3,000 down.

I thought it was too good to be true too. I'm not unsure of myself, the whole reason I got it was because of the super good deal. I do believe most dealers will NOT lease for that cheap. Mine stated that they wanted to get rid of them because they were sitting on the lot for too long, and to rid them before the 06' models come out.

BTW it's a 12k/year. More than enough for me.

 

I am not saying you're lying.. I am saying read the paperwork again. So you're telling me that the dealer sold it to you for half price to get rid of it? Like I said, if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is. Are you sure there is no balloon payment?

 

true. Unless your state has uniform lease disclosure laws, they can bury an awful lot into the fine print. Like turn-in fees based on market value - things like this would make you responsible for the difference between the stated residual and the actual value at the end of the lease (balloon). Hope that you have read all of the small print.

 

I don't know what else there is too it. I get everything all you other leasers get out there.

2 year lease, $2500 down, $200/month. Road side assistance, warranty, ect.

What could I be missing? :?

 

This kid has no idea about anything. Can't drive yet, knows nothing about financing, Maybe the 200/mo is what daddy says he has to pay. Hate to make fun of him but really has no clue about anything.

 

How much more clearer can I get?

$2500 down, $200/month. Period. What else is there too it? You think I'm leaving other expenses out of it?

BTW, I can drive. This just happens to be my first stick. I getting it down pretty damn good too.

 

Nice.. soon you'll be better than your brother. Then you can stick his "all manuals have a tug" back into his face

 

Heheh, yeah.

He's looking at an H3 or an S2000 now...

 

[QUOTE=REL_RX8]How much more clearer can I get?

$2500 down, $200/month. Period. What else is there too it? You think I'm leaving other expenses out of it?
QUOTE]

That's the front of the lease. What's it say on back? No dealer finance guy is going to tell you anything that you don't ask directly and then you better be prepared to translate the BS. A lease is a financial instrument that is so potentially dangerous to the customer that NY outlawed them because of the abuses that the dealers were inflicting on customers.

Maybe you got the one fabulous lease deal that was ever written but leases are like anything else in business. The numbers have to add up for the business. They don't put the numbers together because you're a nice guy and they like you unless the dealer is your dad.

By the way, all leases have expenses at the back end when you turn the car in. If they didn't get it from you up front they will get it from you later.

 

Hmmm... all I know is that my car payment is $200/month. Then I turn it in and it's all over.

You think they are going to hit me with a $5,000 return fee or something? Everything on the contract was in order. I'm getting nothing less than what you guys are.

As I said, they want to get rid of them!

Yes I can understand, the deal sounds too good to be true. Well it's true, and that's the whole reason I leased it in the first place!

Don't believe it all you want. All I know is that I couldn't be happier.

 

What are you talking about, you made fun of him with relish and zeal. It was nasty and uncalled for.

 

Rel,

All I am saying is pull the contract out. I work in manufacturing and we simply don't sell items for half price. It does not happen. It does not happen. I know you think you just pulled it off. But again. It does not happen. Either your dealer made a huge mistake, or you did. And I tend to think the dealer is a bit more experienced at making deals (ones that favor them no less) than you are. And keep in mind - the sales persons JOB is to convince you, that you got the best deal going. That's what makes for repeat business.

I have a lease, and I know (right now) that I have to pay $400 to return my car (lease termination fee -- EVERY LEASE HAS THEM), plus overage on mileage if any, and damage repair.

All we are saying is -- read the document again and hope your dealer made a mistake. (If you are not good with contracts, find someone who is.)

Good luck.

 

The cheapest lease deal I've seen on here is $1k down $299 a month, on a non-GT leftover 04' sold in 2005. Nobody even comes close to the deal REL is talking about.

 

I tell ya, I simply got lucky. The dealer *wanted* to get rid of them because they were NOT selling. I remember the poster on the wind sheild *MANAGER'S SPECIAL*

I can understand it's too hard to believe, and you are all probably upset that your paying double what I am for the same thing. Hell, I'm still shocked about the deal I got. The other dealer I went to wanted in the upper 300's for the same thing. I had to drive about 40 miles to this dealer but it was damn worth it.

I'll check the contract again and post ANY additional fees.

I already know that it's $0.15 for every mile I go over. And every mile I go under I get a $0.10 refund.

 

Hello, I have been reading these forums quite a lot lately because I am looking into leasing an RX-8 and was curious as to its many ups and downs.

That being said, I found this topic and have to vouch for this lease rate. I live in Minnesota and a dealer here is giving the exact same deal. $2000 down and $200 a month for 24 months - 12,000 miles a year.

I haven't looked into any hidden fees yet... but if I find anything I'll be sure to update everyone.

-- Jace'Rider

 

We are not hating on you, we actually salute you if you pulled off this deal. But we also want to make sure you weren't tricked.

I've seen many leases and this clause ^ does not exist, but then again you may be breaking new ground.