So we all know about checking our oil every 500 miles or so and etc, but is there a way to prolong this? Are there any aftermarket products etc. that you can add onto this monster of a machine to slow down on oil consumption. Also, by adding force induction (GReddy Turbo), will that kill the oil faster? Thanks!

 

oil is injected into the combustion chambers. that oil is lost whether it burns or is just swept out the exhaust ports eventually. nothing you can add to the oil would stop that. nor would you want it to.

 

yeah, lol...i understand that and thanks for a response. i mean, at least someone decided to try and help me out. but umm, let me try to re-word my previous post.

is there any way to add life to your oil's combustion rate? i mean, is that it...500 or so miles and then you have to check or replenish? isn't there some way to make the oil last longer and if you add a turbo, will eat the oil faster or slower. -thanks!

 

Well if the engine uses small amounts of oil for lubrication by design, I don't see how it could use less. Call me crazy, but I assume Mazda wanted it to use as little as possible and not a drop more.

 

OK, I'll give it a shot. Oil is delivered to the engine by a pump. By the way the engine is designed, it MUST BURN OIL! That's how the internal moving parts get their lubrication. There's really nothing you can add to the oil itself to change the delivery rate. Adding a turbo by itself will not affect oil consumption (since the pump don't know you have a turbo) but the pump runs off engine RPM and throttle position. If you drive your turbo like an old lady - no change. If you stand on it (which is probably why you added a turbo in the first place) oil consumption will go up (since when you step on the gas you apply more throttle and the engine spins faster, which makes the pump work harder which delivers more oil). So the bottom line - if you want your oil to last longer drive slow.

 

In some race engines, the oil injection is plugged. But then 2 cycle oil is added to the gasoline to replace the lack of engine oil.
The oil injection is used to increase the life of the engine.

 

How's this for a strategy - check every 500, but don't add any.

Wait until the level is around "minimum", then change the oil, that way you're not topping up then draining new oil. Just use the oil consumption as the cars way of saying "time to change".

Should work, there is no reason to keep the level at "full", you are dealing with a total of 7+ litres of oil, one more won't make any difference......

S

 

i understood your question perfectly both times. which part of my answer did you not understand? the oil goes into the combustion chamber- from there it only goes one place- out the tail pipe.

there is nothing you can add that would stop it from going into the engine and out of the the exhaust or somehow lessen the amount.

the pump sends the amount it sends. there is nothing you can add to the oil that would make the pump pump less of it.

there are some reasons to believe that for a TC or SC you may want more to be injected and possibly in some NA instances.

for instance Mazda has used a redesigned pump for its FI test cars which pumps more. Racing Beat sells a version of this re-design. Mazda has used the higher rate pump in some stock vehicles in the field to try to fix some problems in the AT cars.

but just adding FI alone would not change the rate of oil injection by the pump. however your oil consumption may go up if you are using oil for lubrication of the TC or SC.

 

Endeffect, this is the key - the manual advises to CHECK the oil frequently - it doesn't say to ADD oil every time you check it!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yeah, check every 500 miles or so - you still won't need to add oil until every 1500 - 2000 miles or so. This isn't a problem.

As for reducing that rate - the oil is injected for rotor and seal lubrication - WHY would you want to reduce that? You would prefer to sieze your engine?

 

Well, you could replace the rotary with a small-block Chevy...

Seriously, oil consumption is one of the characteristics of the rotary. (for reasons discussed above)

However, the harder and higher you push the engine, the more oil is injected. Driving like a granny would likely reduce oil consumption!

 

Kinda off topic, but has anyone in cold climates had issues of the oil cap freezing on due to condensation ? Also on the dipstick beige/ colored frozen particles? Car is warmed up to temp but shut down after a few miles. Possibly block not up to full temp to rid the condensation? (aprox 11,000 km on the engine). Taking to dealer this weekend for oil change, gona ask them, but thought Id see what eveyone else thought.