Hi, I'm test driving an '07 RX-8 with 5k miles tomorrow and I have a question that I don't trust the sales guy to answer. I'm sure this question has been answered before but I've waded through several long threads already and I don't have time to do more; it's late and I'm doing the test drive tomorrow after work.

I live in the South and I'm really wary of using the light oil that Mazda recommends. If I use a heavier oil, will I still be covered under the 100k/8 year engine warranty? Do I have to have all oil changes done at the dealership? What kind of evidence of proper maintenance do you need to get an engine fixed under the warranty?

 

My advice is that they can't void something they don't know about. Oil is a touchy subject and Mazda is probably the absolute dumbest entity when it comes to their "public" opinion on oils and rotaries and the sales people only help further the ignorance. Use a thicker oil. It's fine. Many dealers have filled customer cars with thicker oils such as 10W30's but it's not to say they all will. When it comes to warranty work, having your oil changes done at the dealership is a way for them to verify that you have been keeping up with your maintenance. If you do your oil changes yourself or elsewhere, you need to keep track of everything in a log. Keep a file folder on your car's maintenance right down to every date and receipt. I don't care if it's a receipt from an autoparts store for an oil filter. Save it. You'll need to show this stuff if you ever have to have warranty work done as Mazda is the single worst auto manufacturer on the planet when it comes to taking care of customer's warranty needs.

I sincerely hope Mazda sees me write this! It's one reason why my daily driver is a HONDA and why I keep a Mazda as a play car. My next new car will also NOT be a Mazda.

 

This is what is in my Mazda Manual....so not a problem...I had to show the Mazda-mech and thats all he needed. Some of us should be running 10X40wt or even 20X50wt in hot climates.

"Engine oil viscosity, or thickness, has an
effect on fuel economy and cold-weather
operation (starting and oil flow).
Low-viscosity engine oils can provide
improved fuel economy and cold-weather
performance.
But high-temperature weather conditions
require higher-viscosity engine oils for
satisfactory lubrication

 

Thanks rotarygod. I feared as much. I don't want to change the oil myself I just don't want to poison my engine to death. If I have the oil changed with a heavier oil at a lube shop and keep all my receipts, am I still good? Or is it kind of a crap shoot as to what Mazda will honor?

As for Mazdas in general, I've had a lot of good experiences so far. I've had my '97 Protege since it was new and it hasn't had a problem yet. My sister's 3 seems to be just as solid. My old 1980 RX-7 was great and my mom's '90 Miata never had a problem. They're great cars, too bad Mazda is such a pain about warranties.

 

I don't want it to sound like I'm anti Mazda. I'm not. I just believe most their service people are complete idiots who wouldn't know an oil filter from an air filter even after reading the descriptions on the boxes. Too many people have too many issues with Mazda service. The couple of times I've had to go to Honda, they haven't asked any questions. They've just done it and taken care of me. I'm harsh on Mazda because I have higher expectations from them and because others can do it better.

 

Thanks Old Rotor, that helps. If the manual says that then I can show that Mazda recommends a heavier oil for where I live.

 

In most cases the dealer have a good price on oil-changes so it makes sense to have them do it.

 

I have a hard time allowing the dealer to do my oil changes. i don't trust that they will tighten everything, change the filter or use the correct oil.. There was a time where people took pride in their work. Not anymore. The oil changer is usually the freshman on the block in the dealer ship and they also aren't the brightest bulb in the bunch.

 

your drug dealer?

you dont own a rx8. go away..

beers

 

I have owned rx's since the 70s. There are many people here who offer opinions without facts. A few weeks ago I several people dissing mobil 1, recommended by porsche and the space shuttle. Bottom line you have a 100k warranty, why screw with the factory. Do you think they want to do repairs under warranty? I have a new 8 and do use 30 WT.

 

Some opinions are based on (albeit outdated) facts.....

Mobil1 ate the 'O' rings out of my first rotary.

1975, Mobil1 had just been invented, and featured in Popular Mechanics (The first synthetic oil! Chosen by NASA for the Space Race!)

So off I go to the States and buy my 4 quarts......

Within a month my poor rotary had no O-rings left and antifreeze was pouring (gushing!) into the chambers. Mazda replaced the engine, I was told it was going back to Japan for analysis.

Soon after, the infamous "no synthetics" warning started, but by then Mobil1 had been reformulated......

S

 

interesting Stealth, so would you say mobil 1 syn is fine now?

 

mobil1's formulation has changed, many many times since that happened. Also all the o-rings have changed, also many many times, since the 70's. You won't have problems now.

 

Just sayin'.

The 'no syn' edict is based on factual, very costly, experience.

That said, I've used a full PAO synthetic since day-one, which is now over five years, with no oil related problems at all.


S

 

I live in the south and run 5w30 (do the changes myself) However I am thinking about using 10w30 there are lots of ppl on here that run 10 or even up to 20w50 nothing can hurt it except thinner oil can wear parts more....I would use 5w30 or 10w30 or possible 5w30 in the winter and 10w30 in the summer when it is usually 100 degrees or so