A question on the break-in procedure
#1
A question on the break-in procedure
OK, thrash me if you must, but I DID use the terms "break in" and "engine" in the search and although dozens of threads came up, I could not find one that defintitely talked about the recommended rpm maximum for the first 1,000 miles.
In the manual it says there is no exact break in procedure, but I KNOW I read a thread on here some months back that dealt with this issue.
I got my car Saturday and have been careful to run the rpms up no higher than 5 to 6 thousand. But again, what is the recommended max and isn't it for the first 1,000 miles?
In the manual it says there is no exact break in procedure, but I KNOW I read a thread on here some months back that dealt with this issue.
I got my car Saturday and have been careful to run the rpms up no higher than 5 to 6 thousand. But again, what is the recommended max and isn't it for the first 1,000 miles?
#3
Change the oil at 1000 miles and then again at 2000. Keep it under 4k rpm for the first 500 and then go up 1k rpm for each additional 500 miles. Thats the way I have heard it to be. At about 2500 miles you should be good to redline it once or twice to break up any engine and oil deposits.
#4
#7
Well, I think redline after 600 mi. is fine, if you take the mazda guidelines at face value. i.e. warm it up properly first, don't stay at redline for more than a second, and don't hit it every time you accelerate. I can't see the harm in redlining periodically between 3rd and 4th gear on the interstate, once fully warmed up, with 700 mi. on the clock.
Below 600 mi., yes it is a pain.
It is odd that given modern ECU technology, they haven't figured out a way to automatically rev limit new cars anyway? It would seem like a pretty simple thing to program.
Below 600 mi., yes it is a pain.
It is odd that given modern ECU technology, they haven't figured out a way to automatically rev limit new cars anyway? It would seem like a pretty simple thing to program.
#9
I say warm the car up properly and then take car to different parts of the rpm range, avoid staying on particular speed or rpm for an extended amount of time. By 500 miles the engine has already pretty much seated everything I would imagine, as long as you change the oil shortly after, then just give it hell.
#11
OK, I'm confused about something.
Neither the owner's manual or the guy at the service department who kindly assisted in showing me the strange spot the dipstick is placed, mentioned anything about a first oil change at 1,000 miles.
I was planning on just bringing it in at 3,000.
Why would I need to change it after the first 1,000 miles? And what is there to worry about if I don't?
Neither the owner's manual or the guy at the service department who kindly assisted in showing me the strange spot the dipstick is placed, mentioned anything about a first oil change at 1,000 miles.
I was planning on just bringing it in at 3,000.
Why would I need to change it after the first 1,000 miles? And what is there to worry about if I don't?
#12
Originally Posted by torbee
OK, I'm confused about something.
Neither the owner's manual or the guy at the service department who kindly assisted in showing me the strange spot the dipstick is placed, mentioned anything about a first oil change at 1,000 miles.
I was planning on just bringing it in at 3,000.
Why would I need to change it after the first 1,000 miles? And what is there to worry about if I don't?
Neither the owner's manual or the guy at the service department who kindly assisted in showing me the strange spot the dipstick is placed, mentioned anything about a first oil change at 1,000 miles.
I was planning on just bringing it in at 3,000.
Why would I need to change it after the first 1,000 miles? And what is there to worry about if I don't?
#13
Keeping it under 4000 is practically impossible, especially for 1000 miles. My advice is to keep under 6k or so. Monitor your oil usage carefully and change it at half what the book says. If it starts to get really dirty, change it sooner.
You know I've been hanging around auto forums for a while now and the break in question just keeps coming up and there's a bunch of theories out there, but no hard data. Don't worry about it too much.
You know I've been hanging around auto forums for a while now and the break in question just keeps coming up and there's a bunch of theories out there, but no hard data. Don't worry about it too much.
#21
Originally Posted by torbee
OK, thrash me if you must, but I DID use the terms "break in" and "engine" in the search and although dozens of threads came up, I could not find one that defintitely talked about the recommended rpm maximum for the first 1,000 miles.
In the manual it says there is no exact break in procedure, but I KNOW I read a thread on here some months back that dealt with this issue.
I got my car Saturday and have been careful to run the rpms up no higher than 5 to 6 thousand. But again, what is the recommended max and isn't it for the first 1,000 miles?
In the manual it says there is no exact break in procedure, but I KNOW I read a thread on here some months back that dealt with this issue.
I got my car Saturday and have been careful to run the rpms up no higher than 5 to 6 thousand. But again, what is the recommended max and isn't it for the first 1,000 miles?
Since I just reached 1000 miles, I took the 8 in for an oil change as others have suggested and I too was shocked to see how dirty the oil was. I watched the technician work from behind the safety chain and was satisfied with the care involved. I did notice that the oil filter sits on top of the engine block and is designed to sit in the upright position. My only concern about this design was that there was a tiny bit of oil that had dribbled out of the filter and settled in the corner next to the filter housing. Watch for this because the oil can accumilate over future oil changes and you won't be able to tell if the oil filter seal is seeping.
#24
i just took my 8 on a long drive this weekend, just hit 1200 miles im waiting to do a oil change at 1500 miles, and i took my 8 to redline a couple of times already.my cousin works at mazda and is a master tech there (14yrs), he said the 8's that come in for a new engines are the customers that baby there car.
#25
Originally Posted by late8
I did notice that the oil filter sits on top of the engine block and is designed to sit in the upright position. My only concern about this design was that there was a tiny bit of oil that had dribbled out of the filter and settled in the corner next to the filter housing. Watch for this because the oil can accumilate over future oil changes and you won't be able to tell if the oil filter seal is seeping.