My Mazda Dealer told me to let the car idle for about 1 minute before shutting the car off, but I've read on this forum that many of you rev your ening to like 3-5k rpm then shutt your engine off.

For the record please post the proper direction to shutting off the vehichle.

I currentlly:
*Come to complete stop in vehicle
*Set Parking Break
*Let engine idle for 1 minute
*Turn Engine off
*Then place tranny in 1st gear

 

I dont rev to the 3K line, but I do let idle for one min.

 

are ppl shutting it off WHILE the tach reads 3k? So it's like 'Sitting in driveway....Rev Engine...when Tach gets to 3K for a second or two, turn the key off...'

?

 

this not a flame so pleas dont take it that way. question- have you read your manual and the quick tips booklet, specifically the short trips procedure?

 

Jordan, I too remember reading somewhere about this. What I do is stop, parking brake, rev to 3k and let it get back to idle and then turn off. I've never idle'd for a minute. In the morning I do let it warm up a little bit though.

vegas

 

Set Parking Brake

*Turn Engine off

I never rev it and shut it off, thats just asking for flooding if you have to restart quickly.

I only idle a few minutes when warming up.

 

I have been wondering teh same thing too. Infact was about to start a thread before I saw yours.

Is the practice of letting it idle for a minute or 2 to cool the engine down, similar to letting the turbos cool down on F/I cars? Or is it simply make sure you have been runnign the car AT LEAST 2 minutes before shut down?

Also, as a side note, is there a place somewhere I can find the quick reference for short trips guide? I am a prospective 8 owner, and think it might be helpful in my decision making process.

 

Jordan, I think what you are describing is the short trip shut down procedure that many of us did before we had the M flash done on the car. You should not have to rev or idle for a minute or 2 when your car has been running for a while (hours, fully warmed up) to shut it off.

 

I have never let mine idle before shutting it off, so that is a new one for me to hear, although the book states that you should never start then turn off the engine without letting it run for about 5 minutes (or until engine is warm) then revving the engine to 3000rpm for 10 sec before shutting it off. Don't quote me on that...I dont have the book in front of me, but I am trying to remember what I read.

 

i do not idle for any period before shutting off nor do i rev up before shutting off. i do avoid shutting off the car if started cold unless i let it run for a while to warm up.

 

In the "Mazda Driver's Guide" I got when I bought my car and that my salesman went over with me , its says on the part " Let it Run" # 4 Rev the engine to 3000 rpm, and then let it return to idle .#5 Turn the ignition switch to the off position . I think it does two things 1) empties the gas out of the chamber , 2) doesn't allow the plugs to foul . I have from day one done this . I have yet to flood , only once was it hard to crank ( up to the 10 seconds) usually it fires in a couple of seconds . This morning was 16 degrees and it fired like it was 100 degrees outside .

 

A bit off topic, but regarding the parking brake, I usually set mine but recently (in <30 deg weather) it's been sticking on me when I release it, as in when I put it in gear and start driving, the car won't move, then "clunk" it jumps forward a bit. This leads me to think the parking brake is frozen/sticking. Anyone else in cold weather experience this? I'm gonna start leaving it in gear, then shutting it off, but I'm afraid of it rolling away...

 

Leaving it in gear doesn't really work too well, I tried doing that on a hill w/o hand brake and the car would start roll I guess because there's not enough compression built up.

 

If the 8 is completely warmed up from driving, nothing needs to be done before shutting it off. As the weather gets colder and short trips make it difficult to warm up completely, I am still in the habit of revving it to 3-4k rpm for a couple seconds and shutting it off in mid-rev. I do not however just drive it a few feet and shut it off when cold- that's asking for trouble (as with any rotary)... I always make a short trip around the block, then do the rev/shut off. For the record, I've had mine for a year now and drove all last winter through some brutal cold mornings (-18F) and have never flooded (even with the 'J' flash that my car came with).

As to the parking brake question- yes- my rear pads stick often in the winter, but it's the only safe way to keep it from rolling on an incline. On really cold mornings you also might find the brake dummy light on even after you drop the e-brake-- seems the rubbery material at the bottom of the brake gets a little stiff and won't allow to to come down the last 1/2" until the cabin warms up a bit.

 

If you've been driving the car, just shut it off. If you're just moving it out of the garage, let it idle a few minutes before you shut it off.

 

rev to 3000 rpm
hold for 20 seconds
return to idle
kill switch
Followed this procedure from dealer since day one.
I have never had any starting/flooding issue whatsoever before the M flash or after the M flash.
As of recently I have been turning the key to the 'on' position for 10 seconds prior to cranking as I read that in a thread while back--didn;t sound like it would hurt anything?
Good luck.....
Gary

 

It's a good thing- lets the fuel pump start up and pressurize the fuel lines before you start cranking... results in quicker starts and less wear and tear.

 

Yes I have noticed the dummy light on too. Does the pad sticking hurt the car when you jolt it forward? It's my first manual tranny car.

 

i call it "intialising". i have done this also from day one. what i used to do is turn the key to on wait for all the pretty lights to come on and then go out. then i would start. awhile ago i realised that i dont need to just sit there waiting for it. so now what i do is turn the key to on then get my seat belt on and get adjusted in my seat. then i start the car. the time it takes to do the adjusting etc is plenty of time.

 

That would be correct. Just like on light aircraft (see the 'Lycoming Engine Operators Manual', or the equivilent for Continental engines) you should increase RPM to the specified value then kill it, so that it flushes the combustion chambers of residual fuel as it spins down. In the case of rotary and aircraft piston engines, this prevents plug fouling/flooding.

 

hmm personaly i rev teh engine till it blows..then the car shuts it self off:p down side is you need a new engine everytime you turn her on...but what the hey it's only money. haha.

seriously though i've never heard of reving it to 3000 then shut it off...dealership said nothign and manuel says nothign either. i just let it idle a few secs..then shut her down (i never shut her down if she isn't fully warmed up though)