Quick Question about Shifting
#1
Quick Question about Shifting
Hey all,
I just got a 2006 rx8 that redlines at 7.45, i was wondering when the best time to shift is.
Some of my friends tell me to not to go over 4.5 but i figured since it redlines so high that it doesn't hurt the rotary to shift after 6, but then again im new at this rotary engine.
Any suggestions?
I just got a 2006 rx8 that redlines at 7.45, i was wondering when the best time to shift is.
Some of my friends tell me to not to go over 4.5 but i figured since it redlines so high that it doesn't hurt the rotary to shift after 6, but then again im new at this rotary engine.
Any suggestions?
#7
RX8 & RX7 owner
our cars already needed oil added because it burns it off, and redling is going to call for even more adding and quicker oil changes, I only redline when going to an on ramp or catchina yellow.
#9
#14
desperately needs a drop
iTrader: (1)
Ya, drive nice and easy when first turning it on. But after that you can redline all you want. But if you think about it, doing it a lot isn't going to be "good" for your engine. Won't hurt it, but it for sure won't lengthen it's lifespan if you do it more than once or twice a day...
#15
It doesn't really matter if you shift at 6 or even 7, eventually your going to have carbon built up and no compression down the raod before the side seals and apex seals fail. I did a little disassembly work this week results...... first day was 5 engines torn down, all MT, 3 carbon build up issues and lack of power/no start issues due to massive carbon, 1 engine was a simple oil leak(reman from south carolina plant), and one was ran with little/no oil and over heated aka everything is throw away(customer didn't check the oil). Today I managed 6 AT's in the time I spent there, 5 had carbon built up and low compression/lack of power/no start issues, 1 had broken apex seals on the front housing about 3/4 the way up the seal from the front.
Maybe 1/10 enignes is bad due to side seal/apex breakage, 7/10 is no compression/no start/lack of power, and 1/10 is overheated/low oil usually issues, 1/10 is a odd oil leak or something internal like gasket failure.
I wish it wasn't such a oily mess working there or I would do pics to show but I wear 2 sets of gloves to do the work, been months since I disassembled but same results. Mileage varied, some 90k mile enignes looked better then 50k miles motors.
Boring facts I know, I am fascinated and discussed with another coworker how the inner oil seal on the rotors themselves always look very well lubricated and the spring are clean yet every seal/spring on the rotor besides those look toasted and carbon built up insanely.....keep in mind I started the job by looking online the day before the interview to see how a rotary engine worked lol so its all new to me. We were discussing ways to make the exhaust ports different with a engineer and my idea ended up just being what the race engines typically do lol, aka wont pass smog that way I suppose but I wish I had the tools/equipment/money to experiment on the motor with my random ideas.
Maybe 1/10 enignes is bad due to side seal/apex breakage, 7/10 is no compression/no start/lack of power, and 1/10 is overheated/low oil usually issues, 1/10 is a odd oil leak or something internal like gasket failure.
I wish it wasn't such a oily mess working there or I would do pics to show but I wear 2 sets of gloves to do the work, been months since I disassembled but same results. Mileage varied, some 90k mile enignes looked better then 50k miles motors.
Boring facts I know, I am fascinated and discussed with another coworker how the inner oil seal on the rotors themselves always look very well lubricated and the spring are clean yet every seal/spring on the rotor besides those look toasted and carbon built up insanely.....keep in mind I started the job by looking online the day before the interview to see how a rotary engine worked lol so its all new to me. We were discussing ways to make the exhaust ports different with a engineer and my idea ended up just being what the race engines typically do lol, aka wont pass smog that way I suppose but I wish I had the tools/equipment/money to experiment on the motor with my random ideas.
#16
Book em' Dano
Join Date: Oct 2006
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It's a rotary. It should consume oil. If it is not, that is a bad thing.
The harder you run it, the more it should burn.
And the harder you run it, the less carbon buildup you will have.
Don't baby this engine, it does more damage then good.
#18
It doesn't really matter if you shift at 6 or even 7, eventually your going to have carbon built up and no compression down the raod before the side seals and apex seals fail. I did a little disassembly work this week results...... first day was 5 engines torn down, all MT, 3 carbon build up issues and lack of power/no start issues due to massive carbon, 1 engine was a simple oil leak(reman from south carolina plant), and one was ran with little/no oil and over heated aka everything is throw away(customer didn't check the oil). Today I managed 6 AT's in the time I spent there, 5 had carbon built up and low compression/lack of power/no start issues, 1 had broken apex seals on the front housing about 3/4 the way up the seal from the front.
Maybe 1/10 enignes is bad due to side seal/apex breakage, 7/10 is no compression/no start/lack of power, and 1/10 is overheated/low oil usually issues, 1/10 is a odd oil leak or something internal like gasket failure.
I wish it wasn't such a oily mess working there or I would do pics to show but I wear 2 sets of gloves to do the work, been months since I disassembled but same results. Mileage varied, some 90k mile enignes looked better then 50k miles motors.
Boring facts I know, I am fascinated and discussed with another coworker how the inner oil seal on the rotors themselves always look very well lubricated and the spring are clean yet every seal/spring on the rotor besides those look toasted and carbon built up insanely.....keep in mind I started the job by looking online the day before the interview to see how a rotary engine worked lol so its all new to me. We were discussing ways to make the exhaust ports different with a engineer and my idea ended up just being what the race engines typically do lol, aka wont pass smog that way I suppose but I wish I had the tools/equipment/money to experiment on the motor with my random ideas.
Maybe 1/10 enignes is bad due to side seal/apex breakage, 7/10 is no compression/no start/lack of power, and 1/10 is overheated/low oil usually issues, 1/10 is a odd oil leak or something internal like gasket failure.
I wish it wasn't such a oily mess working there or I would do pics to show but I wear 2 sets of gloves to do the work, been months since I disassembled but same results. Mileage varied, some 90k mile enignes looked better then 50k miles motors.
Boring facts I know, I am fascinated and discussed with another coworker how the inner oil seal on the rotors themselves always look very well lubricated and the spring are clean yet every seal/spring on the rotor besides those look toasted and carbon built up insanely.....keep in mind I started the job by looking online the day before the interview to see how a rotary engine worked lol so its all new to me. We were discussing ways to make the exhaust ports different with a engineer and my idea ended up just being what the race engines typically do lol, aka wont pass smog that way I suppose but I wish I had the tools/equipment/money to experiment on the motor with my random ideas.
i'm not saying SEARCH ARGH!!!!
but saying if you do some searchs for the faq's or the new owners threads and what not, they will tell you a lot. like redline once atleast day, check oil and fill up when necessary.
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