Rear brakes... grrrr
#1
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Rear brakes... grrrr
So I finally got sick of using needle nose pliers to spin the girling caliper and went and bought the tool. So, I started tearing everything apart again, all was going well. I then put the tool on a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter and inserted it into my cordless. I began spinning the caliper in. After what seemed like a good while I tried installing my new pads and putting the caliper back on the rotor. No go, still to tight, so back to the drill I went for another what seemed like an eternity. Again tried the caliper and new pads..... no go again, it's getting dark, frustration is setting in. "Why did I buy a Jap ride" I found myself asking. So, I decide that I'll re-install the old pads and have another go at it tomorrow when I can see. Low and behold, these won't go back on. Now anger is quickly replacing frustration. I decide I'm clearly missing some magic point about Mazda girling calipers and come check the board with the seach function.. doesnt seem like there are any threads discussing this problem my brakes are having. So I go out, cuss the car up and down, put the drill back on the caliper for one more go, almost put the old pads on and decide F this, I'll try the new ones one more time. BINGO! They now work. Tomorrow I'll do the other side when I can see again, but I find myself asking the question, was it checking the boards for guidance that made the Mazda Gods shine down on my car, or was it cussing it like I have done to every other vehicle I have owned that made it miraculously decide to cooperate.
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I think one side might screw in counter clockwise and one side screws in clockwise.
Originally Posted by Coda
So I finally got sick of using needle nose pliers to spin the girling caliper and went and bought the tool. So, I started tearing everything apart again, all was going well. I then put the tool on a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter and inserted it into my cordless. I began spinning the caliper in. After what seemed like a good while I tried installing my new pads and putting the caliper back on the rotor. No go, still to tight, so back to the drill I went for another what seemed like an eternity. Again tried the caliper and new pads..... no go again, it's getting dark, frustration is setting in. "Why did I buy a Jap ride" I found myself asking. So, I decide that I'll re-install the old pads and have another go at it tomorrow when I can see. Low and behold, these won't go back on. Now anger is quickly replacing frustration. I decide I'm clearly missing some magic point about Mazda girling calipers and come check the board with the seach function.. doesnt seem like there are any threads discussing this problem my brakes are having. So I go out, cuss the car up and down, put the drill back on the caliper for one more go, almost put the old pads on and decide F this, I'll try the new ones one more time. BINGO! They now work. Tomorrow I'll do the other side when I can see again, but I find myself asking the question, was it checking the boards for guidance that made the Mazda Gods shine down on my car, or was it cussing it like I have done to every other vehicle I have owned that made it miraculously decide to cooperate.
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Personally, I don't believe my 8 has girlie brakes. Front OR rear.
But seriously, are you speaking of the caliper component that rests behind the inside pad? Circular in shape, yet open in the center? I'm clueless what "girling" is.
But seriously, are you speaking of the caliper component that rests behind the inside pad? Circular in shape, yet open in the center? I'm clueless what "girling" is.
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Originally Posted by woodysjh
Should use a C-clamp and push the piston in so you have more room for the pads. That way you do not have to bleed your brakes.
I've never had any problems with the rear calipers on my 7, hadn't had the 8 long enough to do brakes yet.
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Also, make sure that the cap to the brake fluid resevoir is off when you're compressing teh cylinder and that you keep an eye on the fluid so that it does not overflow.
#10
The caliper pistons are threaded. They require a special tool that is available at AutoZone for renting. My 1999 Honda has the same brakes. Once you get the tool, compressing the piston takes about 1 minute.
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Originally Posted by BlueEyes
A Girling caliper, I believe, is as has been described above. Requireing a special tool to compress the piston. He isn't calling the calipers girlie
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Originally Posted by Budweiser8Jr
They require a special tool that is available at AutoZone for renting.
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Originally Posted by Rotary Brother
you rent the tool? the little tool only cost about $3.
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Originally Posted by Section 8
where at? mazdamotorsports wants $30 for the tool for the FD rear brakes.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...atalogId=10101
well here it costs $6. but I think you can get the same thing at Sears for $3-4.
more info here.
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...DIY+brake+tool
#16
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4.00 at Auto Zone, and 4.50 at Oreilley's. No a drill is definitly not the way to go, I suppose you use a pipe wrench on your lug nuts. It only takes a few turns, it's not threaded either, it's notched. The reason is so the parking brake stays adjusted. As the piston moves out it rotates and ratchets at the same time. The tool is a cube and actually has 6 different configurations for the pins that stick out depending on witch surface you apply toward the piston.
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A drill was most certainly the way to go for me... obviously there are different ways to use a tool. If you don't understand the operation of the tool I can see where there could be a potential hazard. As for a few turns, that was certainly not the case. It was what I expected after previous experience, but a LOT of turns did not get it done, so I resorted to a power tool, and will do so again in the future. This is far from the first vehicle I have worked on. 4x4 suspension swaps are more common for me, so a brake job isnt something that is a challenge. Appreciate the concern however. I'd hate to see someone spin it into a disaster.
#19
I don't get it. you pay near 30K for a car and then complain about a 30 dollar tool?
Having wrenched on my "other" cars I learned that the right tool is the way to go. Less broken stuff and usually works better.
Now try to find a flywheel lock for a 78 Porsche 928 on a Friday night. Oh sorry sir we are going to have to special order that..... What's it for again?
Ahh never mind... 1-800 $$$-$$$$ Hey man you got a factory tool for this. Yea send it to me ASAP. I know you already have my Credit card #
Having wrenched on my "other" cars I learned that the right tool is the way to go. Less broken stuff and usually works better.
Now try to find a flywheel lock for a 78 Porsche 928 on a Friday night. Oh sorry sir we are going to have to special order that..... What's it for again?
Ahh never mind... 1-800 $$$-$$$$ Hey man you got a factory tool for this. Yea send it to me ASAP. I know you already have my Credit card #
#20
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Originally Posted by Joe_914
I don't get it. you pay near 30K for a car and then complain about a 30 dollar tool?
Having wrenched on my "other" cars I learned that the right tool is the way to go. Less broken stuff and usually works better.
Now try to find a flywheel lock for a 78 Porsche 928 on a Friday night. Oh sorry sir we are going to have to special order that..... What's it for again?
Ahh never mind... 1-800 $$$-$$$$ Hey man you got a factory tool for this. Yea send it to me ASAP. I know you already have my Credit card #
Having wrenched on my "other" cars I learned that the right tool is the way to go. Less broken stuff and usually works better.
Now try to find a flywheel lock for a 78 Porsche 928 on a Friday night. Oh sorry sir we are going to have to special order that..... What's it for again?
Ahh never mind... 1-800 $$$-$$$$ Hey man you got a factory tool for this. Yea send it to me ASAP. I know you already have my Credit card #
Not sure if this is directed at me, but I wasn't compaining about the $10 tool, I can now use it on my other vehicles. More just the story of the aggravation.
#21
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Originally Posted by Coop '04
So a pipe wrench on lug nuts is not that out of line for you...given your 4X4 experience...
Pipe wrenches, 6' cheater bars, sledge hammers.... they all come in handy when working on a vehicle at one time or another.
#23
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hey coda-
i see that you live in savannah (& atlanta). im here in savannah too, & was unaware anyone else here was really 'interested' in their 8. i'll be changing pads sometime, not sure when, but i would love to have an expert at hand, but moreso to just meet up. if you're around, maybe we could talk about places to drive, etc. sometime! my e-mail is zaglo6204@mac.com, if that's easier for you.
i see that you live in savannah (& atlanta). im here in savannah too, & was unaware anyone else here was really 'interested' in their 8. i'll be changing pads sometime, not sure when, but i would love to have an expert at hand, but moreso to just meet up. if you're around, maybe we could talk about places to drive, etc. sometime! my e-mail is zaglo6204@mac.com, if that's easier for you.
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Originally Posted by Rotary Brother
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...atalogId=10101
well here it costs $6. but I think you can get the same thing at Sears for $3-4.
more info here.
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...DIY+brake+tool
well here it costs $6. but I think you can get the same thing at Sears for $3-4.
more info here.
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...DIY+brake+tool
Sweet. I'll have to pick one up. Thanks
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