redline. Good or bad to do
#76
#79
So the point of a once-a-day redline is to prevent the carbon build-up on the last two ports by flicking them open and allowing air to flow through them, right? If they don't open until 6250 and 7250rpms, then I don't see how 4000 - 4500rpm highway driving is going to accomplish this.
#83
wait, stew, so chirping my wheels from 1st to 2nd has given me all these problems??? I mean im clueless, I dont do it alot, but when Im getting on it I redline 1st then shift quick to second, not an abusive power shift, just an aggressive shift usually resulting in a chirp
dude I have never chirped my tires in shifting gears. My car doesn't even HAVE traction control equipped, so don't tell me that's the problem. I shift fast and hard enough, but don't get chirping like I do in other cars.
O_o
what the heck?
#84
#85
The guy who did this to his RX7 doesnt love rotaries or deserve one for that matter. he should be shot.
#87
Redline brigade, please answer me this simple question, where is credible proof of your theory? Mazda even put a rev limiter (a technical way of saying "this is too much, stop!"). Meaning they knew there are people out there crezzy enough to rev it that far, they are trying to stop them
#88
Redline brigade, please answer me this simple question, where is credible proof of your theory? Mazda even put a rev limiter (a technical way of saying "this is too much, stop!"). Meaning they knew there are people out there crezzy enough to rev it that far, they are trying to stop them
Go ahead and don't redline your engine. In fact, go use that 5W-20 that the MNAO manual says to use. Don't premix either, the manual never mentioned that.
#89
The devil made me do it
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Redline brigade, please answer me this simple question, where is credible proof of your theory? Mazda even put a rev limiter (a technical way of saying "this is too much, stop!"). Meaning they knew there are people out there crezzy enough to rev it that far, they are trying to stop them
#90
Jindesu, you are creepy, it's like you are reading my mind. I use 5W30 actually, Edge(the dealership put it, i will change it to Magnatec 15w40). I also don't premix. The only things I do are.
1. Fill up with premium
2. Top up with Magnatec
3. Change tyres whenthey are done
4. Wash and polish the car on weekends
5. And I just drive
That, my friend, is how an RX8 is supposed to be. No carbon buildup out of the blue. If you are having carbon buildup, check you oil, premix and all these other fancy mods that people install. You will find the problem and you will sort it out and have a "redline optional" drive like me.
1. Fill up with premium
2. Top up with Magnatec
3. Change tyres whenthey are done
4. Wash and polish the car on weekends
5. And I just drive
That, my friend, is how an RX8 is supposed to be. No carbon buildup out of the blue. If you are having carbon buildup, check you oil, premix and all these other fancy mods that people install. You will find the problem and you will sort it out and have a "redline optional" drive like me.
#91
Unfortunately, since the engine uses oil, it will build up carbon. No matter what oil you use, it is a chemical product that does not burn as cleanly as it should. In fact, by premixing with certain additives, that helps clean out some of the carbon - just like adding those fuel cleaners or whatever.
The way the engine works is that it opens its ports at certain RPMS. The two ports that open at the higher RPM are still affected by this carbon buildup. If you don't open them regularly, then eventually the buildup will become so thick that it will never get removed.
Additionally (and I'm not sure if all RX-8's need this), higher RPMs help to clean the trailing spark plugs. Those plugs can become fouled from running your engine at lower RPMs at a long time. That one is caused by the engine not burning as much of the gasoline as it should in the lower RPMs, I believe. Someone can correct me on that if I am wrong.
To re-cap, if your engine burns engine oil, then it will leave carbon (ash). There is no logical reasoning for why it wouldn't leave carbon. Even gasoline has residue when you burn it. Why this affect a rotary engine more than a piston engine (a question you brought up in another thread) is because the rotary engine burns engine oil directly in it's combustion chambers. It just does, carbon will build up, you might last 50k, 80k, 100k with the carbon build up, but it will never last as long as if you red-lined it.
Afternote - I am in no way trying to put you down, my previous post sort of had that tone. I am just saying, manufacturer's do NOT put their product's best interest first. What comes first to the manufacturer is money, legal concerns, and political (environmental) concerns. That is why your manual will not give you these information.
The way the engine works is that it opens its ports at certain RPMS. The two ports that open at the higher RPM are still affected by this carbon buildup. If you don't open them regularly, then eventually the buildup will become so thick that it will never get removed.
Additionally (and I'm not sure if all RX-8's need this), higher RPMs help to clean the trailing spark plugs. Those plugs can become fouled from running your engine at lower RPMs at a long time. That one is caused by the engine not burning as much of the gasoline as it should in the lower RPMs, I believe. Someone can correct me on that if I am wrong.
To re-cap, if your engine burns engine oil, then it will leave carbon (ash). There is no logical reasoning for why it wouldn't leave carbon. Even gasoline has residue when you burn it. Why this affect a rotary engine more than a piston engine (a question you brought up in another thread) is because the rotary engine burns engine oil directly in it's combustion chambers. It just does, carbon will build up, you might last 50k, 80k, 100k with the carbon build up, but it will never last as long as if you red-lined it.
Afternote - I am in no way trying to put you down, my previous post sort of had that tone. I am just saying, manufacturer's do NOT put their product's best interest first. What comes first to the manufacturer is money, legal concerns, and political (environmental) concerns. That is why your manual will not give you these information.
#92
first ahnd experience here i been driving slow lately freaking gas plus i been lazy and been around town a lot and when i went on the highway and felt like crappp like literal crap i hadnt hit redline in like a month i beat the crap out the car stayed a redline and on the return trip from my gf house i got on and felt like new again redline is your friend and i missed that beep so much plus the car is louder my friend noticed i pulled up to his job and said it was louder then the pevious day i saw him and knew i had been beating on it i will say it makes quite a difference when redline is touched
#94
[QUOTE=mysql101;2148751]it's not going to harm the engine, but it might hasten damage to your transmission.
my syncros are now shot for 4th gear. When I get my new transmission in, I plan to keep it below 7k for the most part (which is fine because I make almost 300 whp at 7k). The transmission was not designed for this car - it's a modified tranny used in the miata.[/
you were supposed to by a manual, rx8s were never designed with automatic in mind
my syncros are now shot for 4th gear. When I get my new transmission in, I plan to keep it below 7k for the most part (which is fine because I make almost 300 whp at 7k). The transmission was not designed for this car - it's a modified tranny used in the miata.[/
you were supposed to by a manual, rx8s were never designed with automatic in mind
#95
Redline it EVERY DAY! In fact, redline everytime you start from go.
EXCEPT! Do NOT redline until the engine is completely warmed up. In other words, when your temp gage is in the middle and then five more minutes after. Thats the only time you need to baby it.
Thats what I have done, car is still running extremely well with 75K miles on the original engine. Oh, and premix with Idemitsu
EXCEPT! Do NOT redline until the engine is completely warmed up. In other words, when your temp gage is in the middle and then five more minutes after. Thats the only time you need to baby it.
Thats what I have done, car is still running extremely well with 75K miles on the original engine. Oh, and premix with Idemitsu
#96
redlining is probably good for the engine (at operating temps) but as has been mentioned, it could be detrimental to the transmission.
some of the synchros are a bit delicate and a misshift at 9,000 rpm's from 1st to 2nd is pretty rough on them.
some of the synchros are a bit delicate and a misshift at 9,000 rpm's from 1st to 2nd is pretty rough on them.
#97
It's likely just me reading something in to this thread that isn't there, but my general impression is that I believe people think the rotors are rotating at 9k rpm.
Which isn't true it's only the eccentric shaft that is rotating at that speed.
I hear you on the syncro's @Jedi54 , mine are not in the best shape.
Been nursing those syncro's for a few years now.
Which isn't true it's only the eccentric shaft that is rotating at that speed.
I hear you on the syncro's @Jedi54 , mine are not in the best shape.
Been nursing those syncro's for a few years now.
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Jedi54 (05-04-2022)
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