Reman engine only made it 300KM, must be a record
04-14-2015 | 06:14 PM
#26
whoa whoa whoa... whoa... whoa... whoa... ... whoa... ... whoa... ... whoa... ... ... whoa... ... ... whoa... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... whoa.
I think we found the reason here...
Sorry to hear about your reman Shum :'( ... at least it's still covered!
I think we found the reason here...
Sorry to hear about your reman Shum :'( ... at least it's still covered!
04-14-2015 | 07:58 PM
#27
09S2R3
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
From: Kirkland, WA
Not talking trash about Canada... After all, I do live in the PNW.
04-23-2015 | 01:57 PM
#28
Update:
So apparently Mazda got me an actually new engine. Not a reman. It's going in tomorrow. Not sure if I buy it, but i'll take it.
Can anyone comment on if it's even possible that this is a brand new engine and not a reman?
So apparently Mazda got me an actually new engine. Not a reman. It's going in tomorrow. Not sure if I buy it, but i'll take it.
Can anyone comment on if it's even possible that this is a brand new engine and not a reman?
Last edited by Shumster; 04-23-2015 at 02:56 PM.
04-23-2015 | 07:00 PM
#29
Registered
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Lakeville, MN
Ask them to see the motor before they install it... If at all possible...
04-24-2015 | 06:14 PM
#31
I checked with the dealership and they say that my engine is missing the R in the part number which designates the engine as a reman. Further it came with no gaskets ect. which is consistent with a brand new engine. So apparently it is indeed a brand new S2 engine, due to them lacking availability of S2 remans.
LUCKY ME!
LUCKY ME!
04-24-2015 | 06:27 PM
#32
I checked with the dealership and they say that my engine is missing the R in the part number which designates the engine as a reman. Further it came with no gaskets ect. which is consistent with a brand new engine. So apparently it is indeed a brand new S2 engine, due to them lacking availability of S2 remans.
LUCKY ME!
LUCKY ME!
To me this is a further indication of low SII failure rates.
04-27-2015 | 01:23 PM
#34
Supposed to get her back today. But then again they said that on Thursday...and Friday.
Oh and with regards to the blockage, they found nothing!
Unfortunately the dealership is still "reminding" me that if this one dies they will not give me another one, citing my mods which are a BHR pipe, BHR kit and AEM CAI.
Lastly, it's unavoidable but I will be needing to make the 1000KM drive back to Calgary within the next few days. Obviously this isn't ideal for being able to break in the engine. Therefore, I'm wondering if any of you have advice for my trip back.
So far:
I will be putting a rare earth magnet on my oil filter and then putting roughly 30KMs on the engine and then doing an oil change immediately.
Then I will start my road trip, doing my best to vary speeds and RPM under 4K. Possibly expanding the RPM range towards the end of the trip?
Does this sound like a good course of action?
Let me know if you have any recommendations, they would be greatly appreciated!
and lastly Jastreb, keep us updated on your situation. I'm curious on whether you'll get a reman or a new engine. Mine came from Cali.
Oh and with regards to the blockage, they found nothing!
Unfortunately the dealership is still "reminding" me that if this one dies they will not give me another one, citing my mods which are a BHR pipe, BHR kit and AEM CAI.
Lastly, it's unavoidable but I will be needing to make the 1000KM drive back to Calgary within the next few days. Obviously this isn't ideal for being able to break in the engine. Therefore, I'm wondering if any of you have advice for my trip back.
So far:
I will be putting a rare earth magnet on my oil filter and then putting roughly 30KMs on the engine and then doing an oil change immediately.
Then I will start my road trip, doing my best to vary speeds and RPM under 4K. Possibly expanding the RPM range towards the end of the trip?
Does this sound like a good course of action?
Let me know if you have any recommendations, they would be greatly appreciated!
and lastly Jastreb, keep us updated on your situation. I'm curious on whether you'll get a reman or a new engine. Mine came from Cali.
04-27-2015 | 03:32 PM
#36
9K, I don't doubt your knowledge, just wondering what would make you think against that?
04-27-2015 | 05:01 PM
#37
Even with the remans you should assume there could be new bearings.......that means break in 
What that break in needs to be is the real question
You 1000KM road trip should be about perfect if you keep the revs down. First 100K below 4K...next 2-300 below 5K...and then keep it below 6 for the rest.
Don't run it at constant RPM if you can help it...up and down is better....
What that break in needs to be is the real question
You 1000KM road trip should be about perfect if you keep the revs down. First 100K below 4K...next 2-300 below 5K...and then keep it below 6 for the rest.
Don't run it at constant RPM if you can help it...up and down is better....
04-27-2015 | 05:48 PM
#39
Yes an oil change is a good idea just in case any assembly gunk is floating around it after the 500 miles or so.
Even with the remans you should assume there could be new bearings.......that means break in
What that break in needs to be is the real question
You 1000KM road trip should be about perfect if you keep the revs down. First 100K below 4K...next 2-300 below 5K...and then keep it below 6 for the rest.
Don't run it at constant RPM if you can help it...up and down is better....
What that break in needs to be is the real question
You 1000KM road trip should be about perfect if you keep the revs down. First 100K below 4K...next 2-300 below 5K...and then keep it below 6 for the rest.
Don't run it at constant RPM if you can help it...up and down is better....
2. After engine reaches operating temperature, bleed air from cooling system as necessary per factory service manual.
3. Check oil level.
4. Allow engine to run for approximately 30 min. in neutral varying rpms, then turn off. allow the engine to cool, then change oil and filter.
5. Especially for turbocharged engines: make sure spark and fuel mapping are safe for engine break-in. We recommend the engine tuner prevent the engine from exceeding recommended break-in operation specifications.
6. For the first 500 miles of driving, allow engine extra time to warm up before driving the car and do not exceed 4000rpm. Turbocharged engines should run minimal boost during the first 500 miles.
7. Change oil and filter at 500 miles.
8. From 500 to 2000 miles, gradually increase engine rpm and load to the point of occasionally bringing the engine rpm to 7000 using no more than ¾ throttle.
9. Dyno-tune
10. Check oil level frequently during break-in. During break-in, any engine can consume a noticeable quantity of oil. Running an engine low, or out of oil, will void your warranty.
Failure to follow break-in instructions does not necessarily cause immediate engine failure. BUT we have found it will greatly shorten the life of many of the components.
For example, we have seen oil control rings loose ½ their life from lack of break-in. Consider your hard earned money and time when deciding a break-in procedure.
These instructions are not intended to supersede any other engine builder’s recommendations. They should have been chosen for their skill and knowledge. If they cannot provide you with the technical support you require, consider that the next time you look for an engine builder.
3. Check oil level.
4. Allow engine to run for approximately 30 min. in neutral varying rpms, then turn off. allow the engine to cool, then change oil and filter.
5. Especially for turbocharged engines: make sure spark and fuel mapping are safe for engine break-in. We recommend the engine tuner prevent the engine from exceeding recommended break-in operation specifications.
6. For the first 500 miles of driving, allow engine extra time to warm up before driving the car and do not exceed 4000rpm. Turbocharged engines should run minimal boost during the first 500 miles.
7. Change oil and filter at 500 miles.
8. From 500 to 2000 miles, gradually increase engine rpm and load to the point of occasionally bringing the engine rpm to 7000 using no more than ¾ throttle.
9. Dyno-tune
10. Check oil level frequently during break-in. During break-in, any engine can consume a noticeable quantity of oil. Running an engine low, or out of oil, will void your warranty.
Failure to follow break-in instructions does not necessarily cause immediate engine failure. BUT we have found it will greatly shorten the life of many of the components.
For example, we have seen oil control rings loose ½ their life from lack of break-in. Consider your hard earned money and time when deciding a break-in procedure.
These instructions are not intended to supersede any other engine builder’s recommendations. They should have been chosen for their skill and knowledge. If they cannot provide you with the technical support you require, consider that the next time you look for an engine builder.
I think a good long normal drive will be the perfect break in, just don't beat on it.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 04-27-2015 at 05:51 PM.
04-27-2015 | 06:21 PM
#40
Awesome, thanks for your input 9K. I'll heed our break in advice for sure.
I just got word from the dealership that "maybe tomorrow"
. So I will update on the blue tag then.
I just got word from the dealership that "maybe tomorrow"
. So I will update on the blue tag then.
04-27-2015 | 06:55 PM
#41
Sounds like a typical dealer. I waited over a month for both of my Mazda remans to get installed back in the day. My custom build from Pineapple only took three weeks,
Did they give you a rental? I had a shitty Saturn ION the first time and a Ford Taurus (the older shitty ones) the second time.
04-27-2015 | 07:09 PM
#42
Nope, no loaner. Honestly, I've been fairly underwhelmed by my service. I've been nothing but patient, understanding and polite with them. I even brought them tim's donuts when then finished on my first reman!
I've been stranded in Victoria for 2 weeks, they don't seem to care
I've been stranded in Victoria for 2 weeks, they don't seem to care
04-27-2015 | 09:39 PM
#44
Haha G Man, don't speak too soon. Thanks though. I'll let you know when I make it past 300 KMs on this engine. Or when it dies somewhere between Victoria and Calgary where there is no cell service.
04-28-2015 | 09:58 PM
#46
Good and Bad News fellas.
Good news, I got my 8 back today. Also, there is no blue sticker that 9k is referring too. Further the engine is sparkling and super shiny. I still think it is brand new like Mazda has promised.
Bad news, G Man spoke too soon.
Started with me noticing on start it would stumble for a second. Then about 20KMs later, loss of power and it went into limp mode. No misfires, No codes. I shut it off immediately upon noticing this. Had it towed back to Mazda. I hope, that no damage was done and that this engine is still alive.
Overall, I've got to say that this is a nightmare. Each time she dies it breaks my heart. I really didn't need this. Will update when I hear back tomorrow...
Good news, I got my 8 back today. Also, there is no blue sticker that 9k is referring too. Further the engine is sparkling and super shiny. I still think it is brand new like Mazda has promised.
Bad news, G Man spoke too soon.
Started with me noticing on start it would stumble for a second. Then about 20KMs later, loss of power and it went into limp mode. No misfires, No codes. I shut it off immediately upon noticing this. Had it towed back to Mazda. I hope, that no damage was done and that this engine is still alive.
Overall, I've got to say that this is a nightmare. Each time she dies it breaks my heart. I really didn't need this. Will update when I hear back tomorrow...
04-28-2015 | 10:23 PM
#47
Sorry to hear that m8. Hopefully they just connected some wiring wrong. I feel your pain 
Seems like dealers really suck at anything that isn't cookie-cutter routine maintenance. I just had to explain to service rep that running a compression test cold will not results in a lower compression result. Seems like there are very few Mazda techs around with rotary knowledge/experience.
My dealer made misleading statements about me getting a Mazda reman, only to tell me yesterday that they repeated the compression test and it magically improved. This was after they had my car for a week while I was paying for a rental (which then turned into a huge headache, but that's another story).. Well at least I have my RX-8 back now.
Seems like dealers really suck at anything that isn't cookie-cutter routine maintenance. I just had to explain to service rep that running a compression test cold will not results in a lower compression result. Seems like there are very few Mazda techs around with rotary knowledge/experience.My dealer made misleading statements about me getting a Mazda reman, only to tell me yesterday that they repeated the compression test and it magically improved. This was after they had my car for a week while I was paying for a rental (which then turned into a huge headache, but that's another story).. Well at least I have my RX-8 back now.
04-28-2015 | 10:39 PM
#48
So sorry to here that man, I have been following your thread. It seems like total bullshit, I wish you the best and totally understand your frustration. I'm so god damn angry, it's unbelievable. It's depressing, today was the first day ever in my 8 ownership that the idea of selling her crossed my mind. I never would but the fact that I even conceived the thought broke my heart. It's seriously emotionally traumatizing having gotten her back and then having her die again.
I wish you the best and hope you resolve those compression discrepancies.
I wish you the best and hope you resolve those compression discrepancies.
Last edited by Shumster; 04-28-2015 at 10:41 PM.
