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Rosental Arlington Mazda VA - New Engine, New Clutch, New Cat - Car not working

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Old 07-04-2012 | 02:46 PM
  #26  
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Sorry to hear about your stories rx8umd

COOL STORY BRO~!

j/k

Anyway, problem with Mazda is after they stopped importing Rotary engine cars (since 1995 FD), there were almost no techs in the country (dealership techs) who still knows how to work on these engines properly, in the old days they are all train to take it apart and rebuild it at the dealership. Not only that, most tech of the days actually knows how to fix things without looking at the god damn FSM.

Now? FSM is their bible and the one and only "how to" guide. without it, or if the problem they are experiencing is not found in the FSM, they will be like "WTF NO WAY WTF AM I GONNA DO NOW?"

Sad but true.

Too bad you are so far away, otherwise you can leave your car to me and I will drive it around and see, Can't guarantee you anything but at least I will not give you bs like oh the oil sensor on the oil cooler triggered the CEL.
Old 07-04-2012 | 05:02 PM
  #27  
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I have worked once with Shaun Fauz. He was extremely helpful. I got the 60K service done since it did not have that service before I bought the car. He was the one who got that service done. I switched to Tori when she did oil change on one saturday and was even more helpful and seem to know her stuff well. I have Shaun Fauz number. I will call him and see. I greatly regret switching to Tori.


Originally Posted by Dinhx8
i've worked exclusively with Shaun Fauz since i've had my car (8 years). He's been excellent-

i recently had a few cels, and a lack of power...instead of the run around, we went for a spin with a mechanic (brent or brett) and he ordered me a new engine and it was extremely painless. Most of my 8 years has been like this as well. I've worked with Tori once on a saturday- i was not happy with how she handeld things (tried to charge me for a warranty repair). i vowed never to switch from anyone other than him after that-

if you have the time/patience, perhaps voice your frustration of Tori to Shaun or the service manager. While they are a 'team' i sense they are all competitive against each other and may be able to better fix your problem? Or you could just go to another dealer if you feel you've gotten all you can out of em.
Old 07-04-2012 | 05:58 PM
  #28  
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The 20 brake pedal stopping in 8s worked. The check engine light is out. Now....I am left with grinding second gear. I was driving it around earlier. So long as I shift under 25mph there is no gear grind....can anyone add their two cents on this.

Originally Posted by Bladecutter
Post doesn't make sense to me.

Anyway, have you done the 20 brake pedal stomp procedure in order to reset the ESS profile in the ecu? If you haven't, that might resolve your crank sensor code.

You should be able to check the air injection system yourself for functionality, and correct connection. If that pump doesn't turn on when you cold start the car, then that needs to be fixed. If the pump turns on, but the parts aren't correctly connected, that could be the cause of your lean code.

You need to go to a different dealer.
I think that's the true answer.

Also, did you even ask the SA why his guys wanted to take the car home? It's a strange request, yes, but if they told me that they had an idea in mind, and wanted to test it there, I might consider it.

BC.
Old 07-04-2012 | 06:29 PM
  #29  
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I take it you looked up the procedure for the 20 brake pedal stomp and did the procedure?

And that cleared the CEL?

As for the grinding thing, take your car to a private shop, and pay them to change your transmission fluid. NOW.

If it doesn't improve, I hope your car is still under the powertrain warranty in order to get the transmission replaced. Unless its just your clutch getting worn.

BC.
Old 07-04-2012 | 07:04 PM
  #30  
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Yeap...I looked up the 20 brake pedal stomp method and it worked like a charm...at least for now....Should I take it to private shop or another dealer for tranny oil? What tranny oil do you guys recommended? Is Royal Purple good in this cars? I used RP in my former car and it shifted so smooth. Thanks for the tip. Clutch, through out bearing, pressure plate was replace a month ago when they pulled the engine out. I still have the aftermarket warranty. But...when will all this breaking down be over? I am a bit frustrated and worried that I am going to spend more time at the shop and less driving the car.
Originally Posted by Bladecutter
I take it you looked up the procedure for the 20 brake pedal stomp and did the procedure?

And that cleared the CEL?

As for the grinding thing, take your car to a private shop, and pay them to change your transmission fluid. NOW.

If it doesn't improve, I hope your car is still under the powertrain warranty in order to get the transmission replaced. Unless its just your clutch getting worn.

BC.

Last edited by rx8umd; 07-04-2012 at 07:08 PM.
Old 07-04-2012 | 07:12 PM
  #31  
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a lot of people grind with RP on the S1 Aisin Transmission, no idea why, it just grinds.

I originally use RP Maxgear too, no issues back then, had it for maybe 10-15K miles I think? but after a lot of horror stories I didn't take my chances and swap it to MT-90. now I'm at 64K miles. still rocking.

you can also use Eneos, they're really good.

You can actually change the tranny fluid yourself, takes maybe an hour or 2 of your time if this is your first, you need 3 quarts of fluid (just to be safe), a hand pump (any auto store sells it, cheap), and socket/ratchet/wrench/etc to open the plugs(I forgot what size right now, it's metric for sure)

ALWAYS open the filled plug FIRST, FIRST FIRST. NEVER the drain plug.

you can let someone do it, should take no more than an hour. buy the fluid yourself and bring it to the shop, do not let them charge you anything more than an hour, and ANY shop can do this, even they are retarded.

Last edited by nycgps; 07-04-2012 at 07:14 PM.
Old 07-04-2012 | 09:48 PM
  #32  
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Mu ha.. ha...
 
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Cali
1) you bought a used car

2) you had an engine replaced


Both items cause problems

If you think you can have an engine replaced, drive out of the shop, and never come back with a problem, your in a fantasy world.

I would have a good mechanic check the PPF alignment.

They usually screw that up after engine replacement.
Old 07-04-2012 | 10:17 PM
  #33  
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I was not aware of PPF. I read more on it online, and I think that could be my problem as well. I have never had any problem with my transmission prior to the engine replacement. Do you think I should go back to the same dealer and ask them to check the PPF? Or, is it better to take it to one of the shops that the forum suggested? Does it make sense to ask one of the other service advisor to take care of this (Shaun who seems to be liked by a fellow forum member)? Thank you everyone for your feedback so far.
Old 07-04-2012 | 11:58 PM
  #34  
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I would take it back to where they installed the engine.

They should align it for free then hopefully no more problems.
Old 07-05-2012 | 12:26 AM
  #35  
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From: Planet Earth
yea, ppf is one of those things that most shops overlooked.

it's nothing that special really, u just need to make sure u put the bolts back in the order Mazda tells you. then you shouldn't have any problems.
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