The point is that every synthetic mixes with fuel in a different manner. There are synthetics that mix very well, like RP and such and others that don't, like the mobil 1.
Then there are the oil groups but i can't vouch in saying if a group iv is better than a group V

 

BUMP.

Anyone comment on CASTROL EDGE 5w30?

A "good burning" Synthetic oil compared to Mobil 1?

 

Let me check but I don't think Castrol Edge is a "true" synthetic.

 

Castrol EDGE Sport 5W-30 is the essence for virtually all that’s modern and technically advanced. Castrol EDGE Sport 5W-30 is an advanced full synthetic high performance motor oil recommended for highly tuned four cylinder engines and the latest technology vehicles requiring a low viscosity oil. *FROM CASTROL's WEBSITE" But doesn't mean it is a "true synthetic" hmmmmm

 

Did some reading, depending where the hell you live Castrol have labeled things differently?

I'm In Sydney, Australia. Apparently the Castrol EDGE here is the same as Castrol SYNTEC in the states which is a group III based oil?

The only true PAO based Castrol is the one in Germany?

OH MAN this is so freaking confusing!

 

Yeah I thought only German Castrol 0W-30 was the only PAO based group IV or V "true' synthetic. I think Edge is a Group III which would put it out of the league of RP or Mobil 1. RP is better than Mobil 1 but the question is what do you need? If you change your oil as scheduled I don't think RP is needed. But if you can afford it, what the hell. Personally I cannot justify the extra cost of RP. But some say pay now or pay later.

 

Yea, I change oil every 5000KM's (3000miles). I got some Castrol Edge 5w30 for really really CHEAP. I don't have to use it in my car, but will a group III be that bad for a rotary?

Wouldn't it be fine?

I'm using Mobil 1 now 5w30 and don't think the Castrol Edge is crappier oil?

 

No it will be fine, it's good stuff but just not as good as the other two you were asking about.

 

There are no really "bad" oils provided they are API certified. Even the oils that are not usually are race oils which are special purpose.

Being that all oils must have SM API certification, that means they all have to perform to some basic standard which is a pretty good one. I guess you could say there are good oils and better oils.

In my opinion, the major problem with Group III oils is they require viscosity modifiers to get them to function as multi-viscosity oils. Since it's an additive it will wear out over the course of the oil life.

Synthetics by their design don't require modifiers so they don't have that issue. They have a longer service life as well as a higher temperature threshold before breaking down. The flip side is they have a higher cost.

As long as you mantain a good service interval you'll be fine with whatever oil you choose. Some are better than others but you're not going to find a truely crappy oil.

 

olive oil duh

 

Okay, I did some research on Castrol Edge and according to what I found it is a PAO based synthetic. This is based on calls made to Castrol by BITOG. It is also the oil used in the Bugatti Veyron. Hmmmmmmm...... Good stuff.

This is a long thread but member "Doug Hillary" has worked professionally in the developement of some Castrol products so he knows his stuff.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...1194403&page=1

And about the Veyron:

http://www.businesswireindia.com/fee...=10977&India=Y

 

Castrol's Edge is a Group IV (finally?) Synthetic.

Is it worth the premium ? maybe.

If they have heavier weight I will get it, but they only have Xw30 crap. so nope. not right now

*edited* damn, didnt see the last post. so now you know what it is now.

 

Keep in mind that Mobil has changed their 5w30/10w30 from Group IV to ... III.

Cost reduction, Thanks to BP/Castrol for screwing everybody up.

5w20, 0w40, 15w50 are still "Real deal" right now.

I got 2 more cases of 5w30, no biggie, I paid 20 bux for 6 quarts. not bad for good Group III oil I guess ? when Im done with it, Im switching to all Eneos/RP/RL

 

Yeah I'm all over the place. I'm disappointed with UOA on this GC and then I went to Advance Auto parts to buy some crap to do my SOHN adapter and they had 5 qts of Mobil1 and filter for $29.00 so I picked up 5 qts of 0W-40.

So now I'm reading about Mobil 1 0W-40 European Formula and I like what I find. I might just switch anyway but I have always had good luck with Castrol so I don't know. But then my dad swears by Mobil 1 and his last three trucks (Xterra, Jeep XJ, and Titan) went (are) well over 150k without issue.

And yes, I do realize I am being ridiculous about my oil choices.

 

well, Mobil used to be one of the few "honest" .... should I use that word? Anyway, one of the company thats "honest" about their "Synthetic" line.

but after years of being "rape" by BP and their bullshit Syntec, they just have to give up and lower some of their "Synthetic" from GRP IV to III ... *sigh*

0w40 is still fine, but I would try to stay away from their 5/10w30 stuff.

 

royal purple ftwwwwww

 

$10.99/Qt FTL!

 

I think Royal Purple is reasonable at Amazon since no sales tax and free super saver shipping, but not gonna help someone outside of US.

 

Ok, like marcusvong i'm also from OZ.
I have a 2004 Renesis with 58K.
Engine replaced at 6k, under warranty, by previous owner.(crack in one of the rotary casings)
I intend to keep it as long as possible.
The dealer said mineral oil only ie Rotary API SL 5W30. (which now sounds like crap, as reading other forums etc, this oil can actually shorten the engine life).
I purchased a 5 litre container when i found out they like to drink a little oil for in between services, guess i'll be tossing that.
I know nothing about oils.

So what would you
a) recommend in the synthetic sphere as the crank case oil.
(do you get the same service intervals as Mazda
recommends ie 10Km)
b) Name brand/type of injected additive using the
SOHN Adapter route

Or (preferably)

c) The premix route
I've read that Penzoil Marine Full Synthetic 2 cycle oil
mixed with Lucas Upper Cylinder Lube at 50/50 then
mixed into the gas tank at a ratio of about 200:1.

Will this premix work with the crank case oil you recommend.

 

Do not use any marine oils to premix. Idemitsu and Protek-R are specifically designed for rotary engines. Amsoil Saber Pro is a good premix and Marvel Mystery Oil seems to work fine and is readily available. Never use Marine oils.

 

The use of marine stuff is debatable, there is no conclusive evidence that is is bad. TC3W supposedly kills cat converters though.

I am pretty sure Protek - R is re branded Polaris 2 stroke oil (klotz, same makers of MMO I think), not specifically designed for rotaries but decent stuff none the less. I remember some old discussions at rx7club.com from back in the day. If my memory serves me correct.

 

1. Install SOHN adapter and fill reservoir with good synthetic ashless 2 stroke oil
2. Premix fuel with good synthetic ashless 2 stroke oil.
3. Fill engine with good synthetic 30W or 40W oil.
4. Change oil as often as you can afford because quite a bit stays behind as we have recently learned in the oil pan and oil coolers and lines.

 

Woops, forgot about that. Yes, Protek-R is re branded Polaris. Pettit loves the stuff. As for marine oils, we can agree to disagree how debatable it actually is

 

If you have time this is one of the many interesting reads.

http://www.sea-doo.net/techarticles/oil/oil.htm

 

From my understanding, Marine Oils have additives that are bad for our cat. If you have a mid pipe or are looking for an excuse to get one, marine oil should be ok.