Rx8 Maintenance
#26
If ya aint first yer last
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Glad to see someone that enjoys working on cars. Especially the 8. Its sad to see some people take such bad care of such an amazing car.
#28
it seems like i have a few aftermarket stuff in my pre-owned rx8. i was told i have a aftermarket clutch cause it grips really firmly but i can't tell cause its my only rx8 i've driven. i have mazdaspeed carbon fiber window side panels. that weird switch that doesn't do anything when vehicle is on or off. and to the right of the picture is a on/off switch with red led front cabin feet lights(which matches the car at night very nicely). i also don't have the renesis engine cover, which i don't mind cause i love looking at the engine after a nice drive
#30
I HATE SPEEDBUMPS!
#32
Go Red Wings!
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I was an ASE Master Certified auto technician for a dozen years, before I transitioned to my current career in semiconductors, and I've seen success and failures with every single brand/type of oil.
Even just taking into account the debates on this board, there are so many varying opinions about oils, and everyone has success stories... Something tells me that the actual brand/type isn't so crucial.
Even just taking into account the debates on this board, there are so many varying opinions about oils, and everyone has success stories... Something tells me that the actual brand/type isn't so crucial.
#34
Out of NYC
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most can go 30K miles without issue. It's just that most people "ignored" it, went over the service interval and things go wrong. I won't blame it to people cuz Mazda said a word in the Owner's Manual.
Not to mention, you can get 3rd party OE like Coil for 23 bux each after coupon and it comes with Lifetime Warranty. and before you say anything about "It's not the same as OEM," well, it came from Japan, has the same part number, works exactly the same. Hmm, just like getting a KYB shock instead of another OE-shock which is really just tokico.
Last edited by nycgps; 08-04-2011 at 07:00 AM.
#35
Out of NYC
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10w40 is a better choice. Synthetic or not. I personally use 20w50 Synthetic.
Why I said that? a good Synthetic (Ester) will have film strength that's about the same as 20w50 Conventional.
and try to use SN or SL oil instead of SM.
SN is formulated to fight deposits slightly better than SM, at least on a piston engine.
SL is better at lubrication.
#36
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Does the maintenance chart in the owner's manual specify a replacement interval for coils?
Ken
#37
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Have you found your spare tyre yet Pepsi ?
I read my manual and it refers to a spare tyre, damn near took apart my boot and back seats today trying to find the blasted thing, so jumped back on these forums and searched and discovered that there isn't one unless the previous owner bought it as an option (should say that in the manual rather than talking about a spare tyre and there not being one grrr)
What a croc ... off to the wheel shop tomorrow to see if they have any 18" spares lying around going cheap errrr, wonder if that will even fit in the boot though ???
PS: the light, could it be your car alarm ? I know my car has a light for that ...
I read my manual and it refers to a spare tyre, damn near took apart my boot and back seats today trying to find the blasted thing, so jumped back on these forums and searched and discovered that there isn't one unless the previous owner bought it as an option (should say that in the manual rather than talking about a spare tyre and there not being one grrr)
What a croc ... off to the wheel shop tomorrow to see if they have any 18" spares lying around going cheap errrr, wonder if that will even fit in the boot though ???
PS: the light, could it be your car alarm ? I know my car has a light for that ...
#38
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off to the wheel shop tomorrow to see if they have any 18" spares lying around going cheap errrr, wonder if that will even fit in the boot though ???
Ken
#39
i havent figure if it comes with a spear or not. it sounds like theres a spear when i hit the bottom of my trunk, lol.
and the button doesn't do anything that i know of. light stays on, on it. and i tried messing with it when the car is locked. im just a stump. im thinking of tracking the wire with a toner. and see where it leads me.
air pump? where!?!?!?!
and the button doesn't do anything that i know of. light stays on, on it. and i tried messing with it when the car is locked. im just a stump. im thinking of tracking the wire with a toner. and see where it leads me.
air pump? where!?!?!?!
#41
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i havent figure if it comes with a spear or not. it sounds like theres a spear when i hit the bottom of my trunk, lol.
and the button doesn't do anything that i know of. light stays on, on it. and i tried messing with it when the car is locked. im just a stump. im thinking of tracking the wire with a toner. and see where it leads me.
air pump? where!?!?!?!
and the button doesn't do anything that i know of. light stays on, on it. and i tried messing with it when the car is locked. im just a stump. im thinking of tracking the wire with a toner. and see where it leads me.
air pump? where!?!?!?!
#43
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Ken
#44
I was wondering if when replacing the spark plugs to OEM NGK plugs and wireset do the specific wires matter which order you place them in. On the wireset there are two sets each with 1,2 on it. Can these go to any plug as long as the Leading and Trailing plugs are in the proper place?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#45
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Each specific spark plug wire is just a shielded strand of metal. There are no smarts to it, so each plug wire could in theory be exchanged in position with each other wire. However, due to the differing lengths of wires, some won't fit in some positions.
The critical part that matters is which coil is connected to which plug via the wires. You do NOT want to get your wires crossed. If the ECU thinks it's firing one plug, but you crossed the wires so it's actually firing a different plug, at best you are going to have problems. At worse you can damage the motor.
Keep them correct:
The critical part that matters is which coil is connected to which plug via the wires. You do NOT want to get your wires crossed. If the ECU thinks it's firing one plug, but you crossed the wires so it's actually firing a different plug, at best you are going to have problems. At worse you can damage the motor.
Keep them correct:
#46
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(all thread I know)
Not necessarily.
It depends on driving habits, engine load, health of the oil lines etc.
During normal driving, I just can't see how anybody will burn a quart every 1,000 miles unless there's something wrong with the engine.
Driving on the upper RPM range ALL the time, sure. The engine will drink the oil accordingly.
Mixture of normal driving and pushing it on the upper RPM range as needed for highway pleasure, then a quart between oil changes would seem normal or typical.
The owner's manual states the typical oil consumption is about a quart per oil change. And Mazda's recommended oil change interval is NOT 3,000 during "normal" driving conditions. My local dealer keeps telling me that I should change my oil every 5,000-7,0000, LOL.
Point is...oil consumption is based on multiple factors not just miles.
Not necessarily.
It depends on driving habits, engine load, health of the oil lines etc.
During normal driving, I just can't see how anybody will burn a quart every 1,000 miles unless there's something wrong with the engine.
Driving on the upper RPM range ALL the time, sure. The engine will drink the oil accordingly.
Mixture of normal driving and pushing it on the upper RPM range as needed for highway pleasure, then a quart between oil changes would seem normal or typical.
The owner's manual states the typical oil consumption is about a quart per oil change. And Mazda's recommended oil change interval is NOT 3,000 during "normal" driving conditions. My local dealer keeps telling me that I should change my oil every 5,000-7,0000, LOL.
Point is...oil consumption is based on multiple factors not just miles.
#49
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As a point of comparison, your parent's Yukon probably has an driving average RPM of ... 2,000rpm? Lets round up for the benefit of the doubt and call it 3,000rpm.
The 2000 Yukon uses 1 coil per cylinder. At 3,000rpm each coil is firing 1,500 times per minute.
If you estimate an average lifetime speed of the Yukon, including idle time, of about 30mph, that is about 5,000 hours of run time. Each coil has fired about 450 million times.
An RX-8's live it's life with an average RPM of probably closer to 5,000rpm. We will use 4,000rpm as the average however. At 4,000rpm, an RX-8's coil is firing 12,000 times per minute. (1 e-shaft revolution fires each of the 3 faces). The RX-8 only needs about 625 hours at this rate to hit 450 million firing events on each coil. Even at the same average speed of 30mph, this is only 18,750 miles.
The RX-8 coils are actually pretty good by comparison...
But yes, they still suck for the environment they were put in
The 2000 Yukon uses 1 coil per cylinder. At 3,000rpm each coil is firing 1,500 times per minute.
If you estimate an average lifetime speed of the Yukon, including idle time, of about 30mph, that is about 5,000 hours of run time. Each coil has fired about 450 million times.
An RX-8's live it's life with an average RPM of probably closer to 5,000rpm. We will use 4,000rpm as the average however. At 4,000rpm, an RX-8's coil is firing 12,000 times per minute. (1 e-shaft revolution fires each of the 3 faces). The RX-8 only needs about 625 hours at this rate to hit 450 million firing events on each coil. Even at the same average speed of 30mph, this is only 18,750 miles.
The RX-8 coils are actually pretty good by comparison...
But yes, they still suck for the environment they were put in