50/50

So I recently purchased a 2004 rx8 and have been taking my car to the dealership to get the oil changed ^$$$$$$$$$$$ which means more money out of my pocket. I know that you are not supposed to use any synthetic oil in the rotary. I was wondering if its safe to take my car to like a Jiffy Lube, or some other quick oil change place??? And if yes, should I ask the people that work there to do anything different, i.e. oil type, etc. Any info. would be appreciated.

Thanks,

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

I did take my car in to a Lube Stop for my first oil change at 1000 miles. I know it wasn't needed but you always hear to change it that early on new engines. When I requested Conventional Oil instead of Synthetic they fought me on it. Once I explained that since Oil is in the combustion chamber on a rotary and burning it was bad they got the hint and went conventional. If you do go to one of these places, be prepared for a lot of questions about the engine and the car. They aren't going to like you very much because of where the oil filter is...but who cares.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

You can change it at ANY places you want, even in your back yard, as LONG as, if you go to some quick lube place, make SURE you watch every step, make sure nothing goes wrong. and KEEP the invoice/receipt, same thing if you do it @ your backyard, keep your oil invoice/receipt.

Nothing wrong with Synthetic, I use it, 30k + miles, engine have yet to blow up, that synthetic bad for engine was all over 30+ yrs ago cuz OLD formula melt the cheap rubber seal Mazda used, they changed the seal to another material and nothing happen ever since

it has proven that synthetic last longer, and be able to carry more heat away faster on the track, yeah yeah I know Street use is not track blah blah, but I just dont see why its bad for street use.

bad for burning? from what I've researched, the additive that they use for the oil are mostly the same, Synthetic or not, the different came from the base stock, and Group IV/V oil contains less garbage. than group II oil, which is MOST mineral base stock is. yeah Synthetic can withstand higher temp, but seriously speaking, in the combustion process, temp can go over 1600f, which oil can withstand that kind of temp ?

ahh whatever, just use whatever you want, as long as its quality product that meet at least SL spec.

Im just gonna keep using Full synthetic, lets just wait and see. I believe my choice.

jones75254

iTrader: (2)

Search.

U will find MANY 8 owners run synthetic. Not gonna explain why but do a search and make ur own conclusion, there are tons of threads on the subject. I run Royal Purple and car runs great.

Also, 50/50 change ur oil urself. Put some love into ur car. I wouldnt trust these quick lube places w/ my car with something as important as oil change.

valpac

iTrader: (2)

You are better off finding a local mechanic to do the oil change vs a Jiffy Lube. Many locals own their own stuff and take pride in their work vs high schoolers who could care less about your car. Too many horror stories about those fast lube places.

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

From what I read before I got my car it had to do with something being left behind in the combustion chamber and not necessarily eating the seals but sticking to them. With a brand new engine I wasn't going to risk them being right. *shrug*

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

most bad stuff came from gas you're pumping, not oil.

Crztrtldck

is it hard to change the oil on the car
cause i use to to my chevy that i had, but the oil filter was located near the bottom so it wasnt hard at all

and when i looked at the placement of the filter on the rx8, it was on top
do you just let the oil drain for longer and then remove the filter?
or is there a trick to do it?

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

What I did was I attach a 1" socket cuz Im using K&N filters which has a 1" head for easy removal. a 12" extension and I just twist it loose, then I stick my hand in thru the side and twist it off.

its pretty easy, 30 minutes the most for the whole job.

mysql101

Safe best place = Your garage.

Install a quick drain valve on the oil pan, and it's one finger draining!

Mazurfer

No real trick.............take out drain plug, let it drain a little longer than usual(due to filter position), then wrap a rag around the oil filter(underneath it) and unscrew it. You are right as you suspected, it will make somewhat of a mess if you don't use the rag.
BTW......oil will stay in the oil coolers......no big deal, but for a more complete oil change do a search and you will see various methods on jacking up the car to aid in draining the coolers....at least to the point where you'll get about another quart out.

Nopstnz

+1. you can trust yourself not to mention you save several dollars all said and done and it takes little time