Security system lockout
#1
Security system lockout
I took my battery out to charge it and when I put it back in it went nuts. The amber lights were on and the horn came blaring. No other lights came on but the windshield wipers were going while in the off position! Im guessing this is some sort of security lockout...I dont have a remote key or anything. As far as I know there isnt an aftermarked alarm system on it but i dont know. There is all kinds of crap under the steering column. How do I bypass this and get my car back!?!?!?!?!?
And yes, I tried locking and unlocking doors and putting the key in the ignition....
And yes, I tried locking and unlocking doors and putting the key in the ignition....
#4
So it will stop if I just leave it on for a while? The horn is like a constant tone, not going on and off like the usual alarm tone. And I have no idea where to get a remote for my car. Will yours work on mine? and if so I would REALLY appreciate it if you sent me one.
I hate not being able to start my car...
I hate not being able to start my car...
#6
That would be GREAT TY....oh and I may have found my problem...I hooked the batt cables up backwards. And I just got done criticizing somebody saying how the hell do you do that? lol oops. And I think I had the fuse on the cable out at that time (dont ask why ). Hooked it back up the right way and nothing....what now?
#8
I read somewhere that if you hook up the battery backwards, it will fry your engine computer. Do I need a new ECU now?
Well I hooked up a new main fuse and the lights around the spedometer come on...it doesnt do anything whatsoever as far as cranking though....no click, whirr, puff..notta. Does this mean my ECU is not fried? I assume that if the ECU is fried, the lights would not come on at all....
Well I hooked up a new main fuse and the lights around the spedometer come on...it doesnt do anything whatsoever as far as cranking though....no click, whirr, puff..notta. Does this mean my ECU is not fried? I assume that if the ECU is fried, the lights would not come on at all....
Last edited by DSMmaniac; 05-07-2009 at 03:54 PM. Reason: Update
#9
did you ever find a solution to your problem? i have something similar that just happened and would be grateful to learn from your experience before i do further damage.
I read somewhere that if you hook up the battery backwards, it will fry your engine computer. Do I need a new ECU now?
Well I hooked up a new main fuse and the lights around the spedometer come on...it doesnt do anything whatsoever as far as cranking though....no click, whirr, puff..notta. Does this mean my ECU is not fried? I assume that if the ECU is fried, the lights would not come on at all....
Well I hooked up a new main fuse and the lights around the spedometer come on...it doesnt do anything whatsoever as far as cranking though....no click, whirr, puff..notta. Does this mean my ECU is not fried? I assume that if the ECU is fried, the lights would not come on at all....
#10
Yes, there was a blown engine fuse under the hood. Replaced that and messed around with the plugs and fuses some more (because it was originally flooded) and she fired right up.
What is your situation? Be sure to check all your fuses. I went over mine twice before I found the blown engine fuse.
What is your situation? Be sure to check all your fuses. I went over mine twice before I found the blown engine fuse.
#11
hey thanks.
i've got no power when connected to a jump-starter or to a fresh battery through jumper cables (not even the blue dash lights). can't even turn the ignition - so i started playing with the steering wheel thinking it was like some cars where steering position can affect ignition key freely turning, then the wheel locked and of course the wheels are turned so pushing it out of the garage in case it needs to be towed (worst case) might be "tricky".
it all started as i was installing a new optima battery (one that fits, but the terminals are on the opposite side of the battery so i put it in wrong going based on terminal location, not on the actual (+) and (-) like a normal person would.
i didn't actually connect both cables, just the positive (didn't fit right which i thought was weird, now i know why), and the negative just slightly contacted the negative terminal with a couple sparks - horn started sounding and lights flashing so i immediately moved the negative cable.
i've checked the positive cable fuse and it looks ok, checked the main fuse (mounted sideways in the main fuse compartment and i can't tell visually, but have no continuity through it so it may be blown. i'll check the engine control fuses too and the others - i really hope this is it! more to come i'm sure.
lesson learned so far: I'll never mess around with a fancy battery, I'll just get the right one - and it helps to pay attention too!
i've got no power when connected to a jump-starter or to a fresh battery through jumper cables (not even the blue dash lights). can't even turn the ignition - so i started playing with the steering wheel thinking it was like some cars where steering position can affect ignition key freely turning, then the wheel locked and of course the wheels are turned so pushing it out of the garage in case it needs to be towed (worst case) might be "tricky".
it all started as i was installing a new optima battery (one that fits, but the terminals are on the opposite side of the battery so i put it in wrong going based on terminal location, not on the actual (+) and (-) like a normal person would.
i didn't actually connect both cables, just the positive (didn't fit right which i thought was weird, now i know why), and the negative just slightly contacted the negative terminal with a couple sparks - horn started sounding and lights flashing so i immediately moved the negative cable.
i've checked the positive cable fuse and it looks ok, checked the main fuse (mounted sideways in the main fuse compartment and i can't tell visually, but have no continuity through it so it may be blown. i'll check the engine control fuses too and the others - i really hope this is it! more to come i'm sure.
lesson learned so far: I'll never mess around with a fancy battery, I'll just get the right one - and it helps to pay attention too!
#12
Sure, no prob. Definitely replace that main fuse, it gave me hell replacing it. Didnt realize it was held in by two bolts...have to lift up the top part of the fuse box to get to it. Then I got another one from pep boys and the contacts werent the same size. So I just took a dremel to it and made them work.
As far as the interior lights, check the "room" fuse located in the interior fuse box by the kick panel. Replacing that should fix that....
(I have an Optima )
As far as the interior lights, check the "room" fuse located in the interior fuse box by the kick panel. Replacing that should fix that....
(I have an Optima )
Last edited by DSMmaniac; 06-01-2009 at 09:46 AM.
#13
yep, definitely blew the main fuse - radio was blown too, but main fuse obviously the problem.
that fuse is a huge pain. the one nut that one of the fuse bolts screws into moved after i unscrewed the bad fuse and can't get it back in line to screw the one side of the new fuse down (other side is fine).
planning to try magnets or, looking from the top, it appears the bottom of the cavity where the loose nut is resting is part of a pressed in metal piece that could be removed to get the nut and reset it.
if not, i may try to find the smallest toggle bolt available and just anchor the fuse that way - leave the nut there.
that fuse is a huge pain. the one nut that one of the fuse bolts screws into moved after i unscrewed the bad fuse and can't get it back in line to screw the one side of the new fuse down (other side is fine).
planning to try magnets or, looking from the top, it appears the bottom of the cavity where the loose nut is resting is part of a pressed in metal piece that could be removed to get the nut and reset it.
if not, i may try to find the smallest toggle bolt available and just anchor the fuse that way - leave the nut there.
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