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Serious RX-8 Question!

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Old 06-04-2011 | 03:00 PM
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Exclamation Serious RX-8 Question!

I have an 04 Mazda RX-8 that I just purchased about 2 weeks ago. The vehicle has a new engine installed by mazda with only 20k miles as well as a brand new clutch. The last couple days I have noticed a loss of power past 4500 rpms like something is pulling it back. When I hit my power band at around 5k the vehicle loses power and starts to jerk. I don't have this problem in 1st and second gear. Only 3rd to 6th. Please help me figure out what's going on.. I only use the highest quality non-ethonol gasoline and I check and fill the oil every other fillup.
Old 06-04-2011 | 03:05 PM
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Do you get a CEL (check engine light)?
Could be a clogged catalytic convertor. Could be failing ignition coils/wires/plugs. Could be a weak fuel pump. Could be a very dirty air filter. Could be be a dirty/failing fuel injector.
Old 06-04-2011 | 03:09 PM
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Yes the check engine light is on. Haven't had code looked at yet however.
Old 06-04-2011 | 03:13 PM
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Get the code and report back with the info. That helps us.
Old 06-04-2011 | 03:17 PM
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Ok will do. Is it alright to run fuel injector/carb cleaner through these engines?
Old 06-04-2011 | 03:22 PM
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Never hurts to ge the VIN and ask the dealer asking for all the warrenty and service info on the car. Knowledge is power, more you know the better.

+1 on everything Easy said.
Old 06-04-2011 | 03:26 PM
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+1 with getting code read.
Its all guess work until we get that info
Old 06-04-2011 | 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by tjcook07
Ok will do. Is it alright to run fuel injector/carb cleaner through these engines?
Fuel injector cleaner is fine. I use Lucas once and a while.
Old 06-04-2011 | 03:32 PM
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I managed to get the carfax before purchasing the car and the carfax was clean, showing the recall on the motor and the replacement clutch on warranty. Ill have warranty till 100k miles. Currently have 86k on the car and 23k on the new engine.
Old 06-04-2011 | 03:38 PM
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The Mazda dealer has more info than Carfax. They will have all warranty and service records of what's been done through Mazda. So if you get a chance go and ask a dealer.
Old 06-04-2011 | 03:49 PM
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I will have to give them a call. I hope there is no major problem with the car because the closest dealer is 56 miles away
Old 06-04-2011 | 03:50 PM
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Get the code checked.....nothing else really matters until you know what the code is..

Once you know why the code is being thrown, then you can start looking into fixes.
Old 06-04-2011 | 04:53 PM
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code check asap plz kthanx bye
Old 06-04-2011 | 04:59 PM
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No code = no help
Old 06-04-2011 | 06:48 PM
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Here are the codes that were read out.

P0455- Evap Emissions System Leak (Gross Leak?)
P0442- Evap Emissions System Leak
P0410- Secondary Air Injection System


Any tips?

Could this mean that I have a dirty cat? Maybe carboned up 5th and 6th actulators?

Last edited by tjcook07; 06-04-2011 at 07:51 PM. Reason: Forgot some stuff.
Old 06-04-2011 | 08:39 PM
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P0455 There's a TSB/Recall on this - MSP13. It cites P0455 as being a symptom, and a new gas cap being the cure.


P0442 Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (small leak) See above^


The P0410 code refers to the (secondary air system) emissions system. The AIR pump puts air to the exhaust to lower emissions. It takes in outside air and pumps it through two one-way check valves into each bank of the exhaust.
.
About 90% of the time that this code is set, the one-way check valves have worn out or failed and allow water (which occurs naturally in the exhaust) back into the pump. In any cold climate, especially in climates with higher humidity, this water may be more excessive. The water partially fills the AIR pump, it can then freeze. When the PCM commands the pump on, if the pump is frozen it cannot turn, thus overloading the circuit and "popping" the fuse.

A code P0410 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

Water may have collected in the AIR pump or the vent solenoid and frozen or corroded the pump
Blown AIR pump fuse due to freezing up

Possible solution:
This may be covered under the emissions warranty on the vehicle. If your vehicle is out of bumper-to-bumper warranty, check if the emissions warranty is still valid!

Replace the AIR pump AND one-way check valve
Test and clean the AIR pump AND test and replace the one-way air check valve
Replace the AIR pump inlet hose
Replace the AIR pump fuse (found under the hood)
Old 06-04-2011 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Easy_E1
P0455 There's a TSB/Recall on this - MSP13. It cites P0455 as being a symptom, and a new gas cap being the cure.


P0442 Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (small leak) See above^


The P0410 code refers to the (secondary air system) emissions system. The AIR pump puts air to the exhaust to lower emissions. It takes in outside air and pumps it through two one-way check valves into each bank of the exhaust.
.
About 90% of the time that this code is set, the one-way check valves have worn out or failed and allow water (which occurs naturally in the exhaust) back into the pump. In any cold climate, especially in climates with higher humidity, this water may be more excessive. The water partially fills the AIR pump, it can then freeze. When the PCM commands the pump on, if the pump is frozen it cannot turn, thus overloading the circuit and "popping" the fuse.

A code P0410 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

Water may have collected in the AIR pump or the vent solenoid and frozen or corroded the pump
Blown AIR pump fuse due to freezing up

Possible solution:
This may be covered under the emissions warranty on the vehicle. If your vehicle is out of bumper-to-bumper warranty, check if the emissions warranty is still valid!

Replace the AIR pump AND one-way check valve
Test and clean the AIR pump AND test and replace the one-way air check valve
Replace the AIR pump inlet hose
Replace the AIR pump fuse (found under the hood)

Thanks, have checked out the fuse. It seems to be fine. I will check out the AIR pump and let you know what I find out. Im ready to have my cars power back. Forgot to add that I have an aftermarket air intake on the car.. Dont know if that matters or not.
Old 06-05-2011 | 12:10 AM
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The items I listed will rectify the CEL codes. But the issue your having is more than likely something different. I would think your cat is clogged.
What intake do you have?
Old 06-05-2011 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Easy_E1
The items I listed will rectify the CEL codes. But the issue your having is more than likely something different. I would think your cat is clogged.
What intake do you have?

The intake is a Spectre. It came on the car when I purchased it. I am going to have my CAT removed tomorrow and cleaned and see if that fixes the problem.
Old 06-06-2011 | 08:59 AM
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Do you think it would be a good idea for me to have my coils checked as well?
Old 06-06-2011 | 11:33 AM
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If you do not know the service history of the car. And you haven't stated how many actual miles are on the car. Then I would suggest replacing them. Along with the plug wires and sparkplugs.
Old 06-07-2011 | 01:03 PM
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The car has a little over 87k miles on the car itself. Engine has a little over 20k miles. But not sure about all service history as not all work was done at mazda
Old 06-10-2011 | 10:56 PM
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Ok mates I have a question. I have read up on ignition coils and I was wondering if there are nore than one on the rx8 that needs to be replaced at once? Im considering replacing spark plugs and wires while im at it. Cats have been cleaned and still no change in engine performance so Im gonna go ahead and change it all so I know everything is fresh.

I appreciate the help.
Old 06-10-2011 | 11:27 PM
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Replace all 4 as a set since you just bought the car.

BC.
Old 06-11-2011 | 08:27 AM
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Are they all the same? I don't have to buy a different one for each control right? Like 1-1, 1-2, 1-3, and 1-4


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