While at the dealership kicking the tires on my soon-to-be new RX-8 (Lightning Yellow :D ), I overheard a sales guy telling someone that there was a special shutdown procedure for the engine. I had never read that anywhere before and assumed that he was full of it.

Then last night I was looking through the "Mazda RX-8 Quick Tips" booklet and there it was:

"Short Trip Driving Procedure"
Any trip that is too short for the
engine to reach normal operating
temperature; needle in middle
of temperature gauge indicates
normal temperature
The following procedure should
be followed when moving vehicle
a short distance**
1. Start engine
2. Move vehicle
3. Warm engine for 5-minutes
at idle
4. Raise engine speed to 3000
RPM for 10-seconds
5. Return to idle
6. Turn off engine
Tip: Warming up engine
improves engine life
** Moving vehicle at a car wash or moving vehicle to access another vehicle would be considered a short distance

This procedure is not listed in the manual as far as I can tell. Is the procedure above important? I don't think I'll remember to do it every time!

 

This is primarily to avoid flooding the engine, I think. When the older rotaries flooded it was difficult to clear them. I don't think this is as much a problem as it used to be. I've never had a problem with my 91 rotary, but my 89 rotary did it once, and when the engine finally revived there was a cloud of smoke the size of my garage. I thought I had rooned the engine, but the smoke apparently was just for dramatic effect. Just keep a copy of your description in the glove box and it'll soon be committed to memory.

 

The main thing is always start the car and bring it as close to full operating temp as possible. It can be a pain to just back it out of a garage to wash it but it's best to take it around the block or let it idle first. Because the 8 is not turbocharged there is no cool-down procedure or turbo timer required.

 

You don't need to warm up the engine all the way. Just let it warm up half way from C and normal op. temp. Start driving slowly and take it easy. Once it's at normal operating temp, you're ready.

 

yesterday when I was test driving one they told me to do it this way.

1. start car
2. let it idle for a few seconds
3. rev and hold at 4K rpm for 10 sec
4. Rev up to redline for a split second
5. ready to move.

 

Common sense is the best policy...
Start the engine and let in run for 1 minute or so whilst you buckle up. Drive sensible, DO NOT accelerate hard, (more than 1/4 throttle) until temp settles into normal position.

If you are iontrested in engine longevity, THERE IS NO WAY that you should ever REV a cold engine to redline.

yesterday when I was test driving one they told me to do it this way.

1. start car
2. let it idle for a few seconds
3. rev and hold at 4K rpm for 10 sec (NO, No)
4. Rev up to redline for a split second (NO, NO, NO= NEVER, NEVER)
5. ready to move.

 

ok, I knew there was something fuked up about that

 

its not in the manual with its in the little "quick tips" booklet.

btw since this is southern ca. and its always hot, do i still need to warm up the engine when its blazing hot outside?

 

That depends - is it about 170F outside these days in SoCal? If not, then the engine is not at operating temperature right after you start it.

"Engine warmup" means to get the engine components and fluids (coolant and oil) to their operating temperature. The coolant gains heat more quickly, so even when the coolant temperature reaches the normal range the engine is not fully warmed up yet. On vehicles with oil temperature or real oil pressure gauges, you can tell when the oil is at operating temperature (Note that the RX-8 oil pressure gauge is an idiot gauge - it shows 'some pressure' or 'no pressure', but not how much pressure). This usually takes 5 to 10 minutes longer than the coolant - so even when the coolant gauge shows the engine is warm, it's not warm enough.

The oil temperature is a better indication that the engine is warmed up, and that all the metal components are at their designed operating temperature. This is crucial because the tolerances in the engine (crank to bearings, rotors to crank, housings, etc) are all specified when at operating temperature, and since different metals expand at different rates, tolerances will NOT be acceptable when the engine is cold (and yes, anything under 170F oil temperature should be considered cold). Running the engine hard when cold is pretty much guaranteed to result in rapid premature wear, due to incorrect tolerances between components.

Regards,
Gordon

 

Follow the procedures in plasmar's post. It is correct.

The reason for the procedure is to help prevent the fouling of the plugs which will happen over time if you don't follow the procedure. Besides, it's no big deal to do it.

Also, for all New "Rotorehads"; if you've not owned a rotary engine car before, you are probably not used to checking your oil and just leaving it between changes. As the rotary is designed to use a Z"little" oil, it is a good idea to get into the habit of checking your oil evry second or third fillup or so. Again, the rotary is different and requires a couple of extra procedures that you may not be used to but, what the hell, isn't it worth it?
:p

 

I know I won't either. I backed it out this morning to wash it and forgot all about the procedure although I'd read it.

It didn't seem to hurt anything, but I don't want to foul the plugs so I'll try to remember next time.

 

This was an ALL important procedure in my 87 GXL. It would flood at the drop of a hat if not allowed to warm up properly. I finally installed a part sold by Mazdatrix that helps alleviate some of the problem.

 

WHAT THE F***? Are they on crack?

 

Wierd thing is, I have never had my FD flood while cold. When I was diagnosing my coolant leak, I would turn on the car for maybe a minute at a time, so the coolant wouldn't get super hot.

 

Has anyone found a simple way to access the dipstick to check the engine oil? The only way I can seem to get at it is by removing the engine cover with the rotary emblem. And the car stays hot for so long (especially the engine compartment) that it's very difficult to put your hand on anything.

 

if you cant even touch the panel how are you supposed to check and top off your oil every 2 fillups?

this car is starting to bother me again.......
________
******* Brunette

 

I think I asked this before, but didn't get a reply. I'm planning on installing a remote engine starter so that I can have the car almost warm before I get in it. I don't always have the time to follow a lenghty procedure like you guys have posted. These seem to work well on piston engines, but is there anything I shoud be aware of, or any ineherent problems with installing a remote engine starter on a rotary?? Thanks...

 

mantisflie,

I wouldn't think that there would be a problem getting a remote starter to work with a rotary. It works through the ignition and shouldn't be specific on whether an engine is piston, rotary, or diesel.

I'm not a rotary expert, so I may be missing something specific about rotaries that this would NOT be feasible. If I'm wrong, somebody correct me.

Did you post this question in THE TECH GARAGE section? You might also want to post the question on the ROTARY NEWS forum. Definatley should get a definative answer over there.

 

Thanks Zoomster. Will do..:D

 

mantisfile,

Here is a thread on the RX7club forum. CLICK HERE. There are people there that are using one with their RX-7's. If it works on the "7", it would most likely work well with the "8".

 

So far, I'm investing in some heavy work gloves that I'll keep in my trunk. But I'm still not going to check oil at the gas station; the car attracts enough attention as it is, if I start pulling off the engine cover at the gas station....

 

I always thought you didn't get accurate readings if you checked while the engine was running/still warm. Seems to hold true in my car, I get the full line when I check before I leave, with the engine cold, and if I do it running/just after running, it shows up over full.

eassssy, every little nit-picky issue is getting to you. Just take a deep breath

 

Not only is there a special procrdure for short trips (moving car), but there is a procedure for checking the oil. Let it warm up, turn it off, wait five minutes and check the oil. Any other procedure and it will appear to over filled.

My 6MT requires the clutch to be in before it will turn over, even if its in nuetral, will this affect your remote start up idea, or do you have an auto?

 

I would think there would be a clutch position switch that tells the car the clutch is fully depressed. Typically remote start on manual cars will call for the bypass of this switch.

 

I agree, that procedure will be hard to remember to do at first. But hopefully it will become habit over time.