Not according to Jeremy Barnes, Director, Product and Corporate Communications Mazda North American Operations


"- oil: the only oil recommendations I can make are the ones in your owner's manual, including both viscosity, type (dino oil only) and change interval. it should not be necessary to pre-mix at all -- you have a sophisticated metering pump on the engine that injects a precise amount of oil into the engine. The SpeedSource Grand Am 3-rotor cars DO use Castol Syntec, but they pre-mix. Their 3rotor is quite different than your 2-rotor RENESIS!"

Take it for what its worth and thank you Jeremyb for posting this in the Canada forums

 

i personally have never pre-mixed but some ppl live by it....also i have always used 5w20 il and changed every 3000....I don't see puttling a very very small amount of oil with ur gas helps at all some ppl are talkin lik 600:1 that is a tiny portion of oil to out 16 gallon of fuel we can hold...

 

But his 'answer' really sort of begs the question. There isn't one single Renesis any more. The strongest argument for premixing is the two new oil 'injectors' pointed at the center of the apex seals that have been added to the 2009 Renesis. It would seem that the apex seals have not been adequately lubricated on the pre-2009 Renesis, even with several different flashes that have played with the "precise" amount of oil injected by the OMP, otherwise why add two new oil injectors? This question has not been addressed by Mazda.

 

yeah... premix needed ANOTHER thread.

 

Most all people on Japan forum premix and those that race do too. For a few $$ it might be cheap insurance. After all the info I have read I'm doing it on this my seventh(520+K miles total on all of them) Rotary. I also have the dealer put in 5W30 like the rest of the world does.

 

 

... i never premix

 

I dont premix, use 5w20, 91 octane. I redline at least 3 times per day, and usually use 1 quart between oil changes. All following owners manual, and Im running good at 67K.

 

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/premix-motor-faliure-147881/

no failures reported so far..

beers

 

some ppl report a quart per change interval...

I get a quart every 1000 miles, and I don't think I drive much differently than others do.

 

idk, I drive like an ******* too. I just kinda have a routine of checking at like 1500-2000 miles, probably not a good habit but its always like just above the min line, I just know my car I guess. A couple times on long trips that oil light has flashed on me but I always have a quart on me so I just pour that in and keep on truckin.

 

The general consensus I've seen is that you must use a heavier weight oil than 5W20 to make you engine last.

 

Sounds like hes holding back from saying; "Hell yeah!" lol
IDK, I do what I think is right for my Car and everyone has there way. Find yours.
-Gil

 

I agree, don't you all find it a bit odd that Mazda recommends 5W30 over in Europe? I think whoever mentioned 5W20 is used for emissions reasons is onto something.

 

Uhh it was Mazda that said to use 5W-20 due to gas MPG. So thats kinda like Emissions right? lol

 

Yeah, they say that to Americans with the cheapest gas in the world :P

Personally I'll rather spend 100 bucks more on gas per year than have to rebuild the engine after 3 years

 

But this thread is based on a technical pronouncement by a PR guy. That makes it special and meaningful.

Ken

 

My theory is why change something good. Ive been using valvoline 5w20 since I bought the car and just follow the owners manual. My engine is still running smooth at 67K, why stop what I was doing now? IDK, I guess Im a chicken ****

 

check the bold letters

 

Paul at Mazmart likes premixing. That's what made me decide to start.

 

Even if he did believe we should... I dont believe he would be allowed to say it. He probably gave the answer he's been told to give (or knows he has to). It's like if you ask them if we should use synthetic or dino... they'll say dino and to follow what the manual says.

 

How much oil do you think your OMP 'injects' into your combustion chamber? Of course, it depends on your driving style, flash, etc, but I've seen someone here measure it as low as 2-3 oz per tank of gas. I use more, but I can't give you a reliable average yet. I think Idemitsu recommends .5 oz/gal, which is a 1:256 ratio for rotaries without an OMP. Most premixers here have a working OMP and only want to supplement the OMP for a little bit of extra protection, especially for the center of the apex seals (where the new 2009 injectors are aimed). For the track, more is better, of course, and Racing Beat has demonstrated higher horse power with large amounts of premix, again without an OMP, but this isn't necessary for the street. Another goal of some premixers is to resist carbon build-up, hence the use of 'lubricious' cleaners.

 

Apparently he didn't even seem to grasp the fact that, while the 20b is different, it's based off of the exact same technology. To insist that somehow the needs of a 20b are totally different than the RENESIS I think it a little far fetched.

Stop me if I'm totally wrong.

Mazda in no way is going to announce to the public that the OMP is unable to provide enough oil to the motor. Pre-mixing would probably send the EPA into a frenzy that people are buring oil with their gas. I'm sure the factory design was trouble enough.

Pre-mixing too much can also clog your CAT, another emissions part which the government has mandated last to 140,000 miles.

Based on the changes to the 2009 RX8 RENESIS, you can conclude that there must be issues with the current OMP to warrant installing new nozzels.

Pre-mixing or not is a personal choice every rotary owner has to make. Some do, some don't and no doubt you'll find examples in both camps that blow motors and that don't.

All I can say is we'll see who is on their origional motor at 150,000 miles and who isn't. Hell I've started running 20w-50 year round...I'm REALLY going nuts!

 

The 20B doesn't have any OMP at all. In the race engine, the oil injectors have been removed. They have to premix. The 20B also uses ceramic apex seals as apposed to our Renesis which uses carbon seals. Other than both being a rotary engine, there is little to compare in the 2 engines. Calling it, the 20B, a Renesis is just a marketing term.

 

When I was at Rotary Performance buying my clutch and flywheel I asked Ken if I should pre mix.

He told me if he wanted to make a couple of bucks, go ahead. He said it really isnt needed on a street car.