SSV ticking?
#26
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Baltimore, MD
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Hey, I know this is prob the wrong place to be posting this but I'm having trouble locating the right thread but if you could help Id be grateful.
I ran over a deer last week. The Rx8 is now vibrating when I hit the gas and the muffler shakes. I took it to midas and the guy who helped me was nice. He showed me the part which had been bent against the muffler. (it looks like a flat rectangular (not thick) bar) it is bolted to the car, right underneath the pipe that is connected to the exhaust)He said that part keeps the car inline and that I would have to get a new one if i wanted the car vibrations to stop. He said I can only get from mazda. I was wondering if anybody could help me figure out what this part maybe called. Does anyone know what I am talking about?? Id appreciate the help
I ran over a deer last week. The Rx8 is now vibrating when I hit the gas and the muffler shakes. I took it to midas and the guy who helped me was nice. He showed me the part which had been bent against the muffler. (it looks like a flat rectangular (not thick) bar) it is bolted to the car, right underneath the pipe that is connected to the exhaust)He said that part keeps the car inline and that I would have to get a new one if i wanted the car vibrations to stop. He said I can only get from mazda. I was wondering if anybody could help me figure out what this part maybe called. Does anyone know what I am talking about?? Id appreciate the help
#30
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I found a piece of paper from midas that helped describe it better. an under chassie brace, which crosses under the exhaust. There are two on the car but i only need one which is located further toward the back.
#31
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
u mean the member brace. it's about 12 inches long and connects the left to the right side of the car, right ?
See pic. Is it the one that I circled ? if it is then Mazda call this piece "BRACKET", and part number is F151-56-H20B, not expensive, cost around 30 bux.
See pic. Is it the one that I circled ? if it is then Mazda call this piece "BRACKET", and part number is F151-56-H20B, not expensive, cost around 30 bux.
Last edited by nycgps; 03-11-2012 at 11:13 AM.
#33
Dodging those Corollas
iTrader: (2)
Back to the original question....
My SSV moves freely when I move the lever. I also had someone watch the thing move by itself under vacuum with WOT application at idle and we saw it open around 5k area..
It makes the same ticking noise and when I touch it with the screwdriver towards the rear of the car, the rattling stops. There appears to be axial play in the SSV.
Is this fixable by tightening anything? Or is it a worn SSV and a replacement is required?
My SSV moves freely when I move the lever. I also had someone watch the thing move by itself under vacuum with WOT application at idle and we saw it open around 5k area..
It makes the same ticking noise and when I touch it with the screwdriver towards the rear of the car, the rattling stops. There appears to be axial play in the SSV.
Is this fixable by tightening anything? Or is it a worn SSV and a replacement is required?
#34
no agenda
iTrader: (2)
I replaced the SSV impact switch.
Haven't gotten everything back together yet so I don't know if that solved my ticking issue yet.
Halfway down the first post
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...-video-184663/
And just for interest
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...valves-174009/
I'm sure you've read them awhile ago maybe a refresh might help
Haven't gotten everything back together yet so I don't know if that solved my ticking issue yet.
Halfway down the first post
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...-video-184663/
And just for interest
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...valves-174009/
I'm sure you've read them awhile ago maybe a refresh might help
#35
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
It's not the switch it is just the arm on the actuator that rattles with age and makes the knocking sound. The SSV assembly was upgraded a while back.
Th actuator on the updated version is larger and black (don't go there).
Th actuator on the updated version is larger and black (don't go there).
#36
Registered
#39
no agenda
iTrader: (2)
I'm getting a new manifold and downpipe fabricated.
I had kind of hoped it would have been done this weekend but it should be soon.
As far as the turbo itself .. it's being a right PITA
I can't get the gawd damn thing apart, the bloody turbine housing is frozen to the CHRA.
I'm guessing I'm going to have to buy a new turbo or find someone to have a look at it.
#40
Registered
WCS - That's too bad. Your turbo setup was one of the better ones I've seen too.
On a different note.
Footman was experimenting with putting bearing grease on the SSV actuator arm connecting to the ssv. If your SSV and actuator is functional, this seem to do the trick of 'reducing' the ticking sound.
I've followed his instructions and tried it...seems OK so far.
On a different note.
Footman was experimenting with putting bearing grease on the SSV actuator arm connecting to the ssv. If your SSV and actuator is functional, this seem to do the trick of 'reducing' the ticking sound.
I've followed his instructions and tried it...seems OK so far.
#41
no agenda
iTrader: (2)
WCS - That's too bad. Your turbo setup was one of the better ones I've seen too.
On a different note.
Footman was experimenting with putting bearing grease on the SSV actuator arm connecting to the ssv. If your SSV and actuator is functional, this seem to do the trick of 'reducing' the ticking sound.
I've followed his instructions and tried it...seems OK so far.
On a different note.
Footman was experimenting with putting bearing grease on the SSV actuator arm connecting to the ssv. If your SSV and actuator is functional, this seem to do the trick of 'reducing' the ticking sound.
I've followed his instructions and tried it...seems OK so far.
But it's not that bad. When you modify as much as I had, **** happens. It's fixable just another thing to do. But it's fun right?
I'm not sure the new SSV actuator is necessary ... but lets see.
#42
Registered
iTrader: (25)
You can actually repair it by taking a punch and using it to flair out the post end to be tight in the arm hole again. However you have to support it inside the SSV arm hole closest to that end by sliding it over something sturdy like a piece of solid bar in a vice. If you pound it by only supporting it on the far end the thin areas of the SSV will distort and bend, preventing it from going back in the LIM bore. Getting it straightened out properly afterward is almost impossible. Ask me how I found out ...
Anyway, much cheaper to repair than buy the upgrade, which is mid $2xx range.
Anyway, much cheaper to repair than buy the upgrade, which is mid $2xx range.
#44
Registered
iTrader: (25)
Ok, sorry if I misunderstood.
What usually accompanies/causes the looseness and pulsing of the SSV that then results in the ticking sound is one or more rotor side seal issues. How severe the problem is defines a CEL and/or hesitation issue. If you have 169 whp the its likely not reached a severe condition yet. IMO a compression test is in order.
What usually accompanies/causes the looseness and pulsing of the SSV that then results in the ticking sound is one or more rotor side seal issues. How severe the problem is defines a CEL and/or hesitation issue. If you have 169 whp the its likely not reached a severe condition yet. IMO a compression test is in order.
#45
I have this problem as well.. could you shed some more light on this? I dont have the money to make a 2000 dollar repair.. if it doesnt need to be done "right" away as you say.. what would be the long term damage if you dont have it repaired? What does the ssv do?
I have had a tick for some time now and it doesnt seem to affect performance, just wondering what the long term affects would be of not repairing the ssv.
I have had a tick for some time now and it doesnt seem to affect performance, just wondering what the long term affects would be of not repairing the ssv.
I have no issues with startups (hot or cold) and no issues with idling..all that being said.. I have a heavily modded engine and exhaust.. including CNC porting on intake and exhaust ports, so I dunno if this little FREE trick will work for everyone.
Last edited by Dan Marcelino; 01-08-2019 at 05:21 PM.
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