Recently had a full rebuild, full street port, d585 coils and 8.5mm leads fitted.

It seems to take a few seconds to turn over before it fires and starts!

Any reason for this?

 

Could be one or more of:
- Weakening Battery
- Weakening Starter
- The street port affecting low RPM compression adversely (all depends on how it was done)
- The D585 coils not firing correctly (the standard D585 coils are not exactly plug and play, sometimes some reflash work is needed)
- A lead is loose at one or both ends
- leads connected up incorrectly
- plugs in the wrong plug holes
- A botched rebuild has insufficient seal tolerances for proper compression

 

Or a loss of fuel line pressure after shutdown from a fuel leak.

 

I've got a lot to look at then it seems!! It runs like a dream when going but it's just the initial start up. Any best ways to check all these things!? Will any pop with a ecu reader? Damn.

 

CEL codes are all emissions related, so it's unlikely any of them will pop a CEL.

I'd start with the battery, then the starter. Those two are the two that won't impact normal driving.

Checking for a fuel leak should be as simple as popping the rear seat up (driver's side), opening the access panel, and looking for freshly leaked fuel.

 

Thanks buddy, I'm still running in and currently at 370miles, seems to be driving fine and ticking over very well indeed. Just that it seems to take time cranking before she fires up.

Must add last week I had P0137 code pop up which was the O2 sensor which was deleted and has popped again rotary specialist said it won't affect anything! So assume its nothing to do with that!?

With this known can I eliminate any of the other stuff mentioned?

Will start with checking the volts on the battery, all electrics and stuff seem fine. How do I check the starter buddy? Glad it's easy to check fuel leak that way I was thinking if have to find and check all the pipes!!

 

Well, still being in the break in will have an impact too, I didn't realize that you were so recent on that. Freshly build engines will have lower compression than ones that are done break in, as breaking it in basically laps the seals against the irons/housings better. Compression will build over the first thousand miles, some say over the first 5,000 miles. The slightly lower compression will certainly increase starting times a bit.

Testing the starter should be as simple as plugging in an OBD2 reader that can see live data while you crank the engine, and looking for the cranking RPM. <200rpm is "failing, 220rpm is "weak", 250rpm is "normal", 280rpm is "good", 310rpm is "great".
If the battery and starter are fine, then I'd leave it alone for now and see if you still have any issues after break in. If your starter speed is low, installing a new one (or updated one) will increase the cranking RPM, which will improve the starting compression.

 

Ok buddy that's brilliant thanks you!!

So it's as simple as plugging the obdII in the port then cranking but will it not start before I get the reading? The reader I have is a autel MS310.

I will cHeck the battery and starter asap then update this thread. What voltage would you say best for the r3 battery? If all good I will run to 1000mioes then start to increase the rev range above the recommended 5k.

Also if I do need a new battery what is the correct type for the r3? Thank you

 

I've seen some adapters that stop transmitting information during cranking, so I don't have solid information on how best to be sure you get that. It's free to try with whatever you have though.

Hold the gas pedal to the floor to cut the fuel so you can get a stabilized cranking RPM, and in case it fires too fast to get a reading.

Voltage isn't the issue, it's cranking amps. If the battery voltage is 13.5v but can only deliver 40cca (cold cranking amps), your engine isn't going to fire at all. An auto parts store should be able to test it for free for you.

 

Many thanks buddy will get those two bits checked asap. Then update.

Just had a text from the rotary specialist and he said not to worry the ecu will still be learning and learning atmosphere also! He said also it will take like you said up to 4-5k miles before it peaks and will never achieve compression like a standard as of the porting!

 

Bingo, there you go. Do the free tests anyway, because it's good to know what you have, but you should be fine. It will speed up a bit as the engine breaks in. I just noticed that you have an R3, so your starting RPM should be really good already, since they had an original starter that was capable of 310rpm.

 

Thanks for all your help mate and will get bk to you with the free check results!

 

Wait you ported an S2? Do you have a custom tune? If not you may have issues. You have changed the engine VE so the stock tune on the ECU probably won't be able to adjust for it.

 

^ That too, listen to 9k's advice regarding the port/tune. I don't know enough to speak to that.

 

On my ported engine I had to raise the idle a bit and make a few other tweaks to get it to act like normal at startup and idle. This is typical of porting on all rotaries those.

 

can I ask you to elaborate buddy so i can maybe do the same! i'm no mechanic and wouldn't know where to start, obviously I should run in first!?

 

9ks car is a series one and we have a few different tuning options. your s2 is very limited as far as tuning goes but people are making progress with it

 

Ok so I had the local Halfrauds check my battery today and he said it was all good.

Next is just check my starter when I get hold of a obdII.

If that's good leave everything else till run in!

 

I would send a message to user Brettus or Paimon about the S2 tuning options. You will need Mazdaedit and some hardware to do it right.

 

Thank you buddy, I will do that asap.

Had another weird noise pop up today when braking only a very few time got like a metal knocking noise!?

The saga continues!

 

I didn't know you can do that. gonna check it out when I get back to my car next week

I assume I would just be monitoring Engine RPM while it's cranking?

 

Yes, monitor RPM for the RPM.