Is there really a "best" motor oil?
#1
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Is there really a "best" motor oil?
While the internet is a wonderfull thing, I have spent (wasted?) hours upon hours researching motor oil.
I do believe a synthetic has advantages over conventional oil, but I am starting to doubt that the pricier "designer" synthetics offer much better performance than a regular synthetic.
Each manufacturer says that they are the best, first, nothing out performs, etc.
They all have the same pie charts and graphs that show they are the "best" compared to the others.
They all also have tons of technical info available that would give a rocket scientist a mental meltdown.
I would love to use RP, or Redline. They are not readily available in stores (Canadiantire carries redline but not in 5w20). Castrol syntec 5w20, no problem. I can buy it off the shelf.
I am an Amsoil preffered customer, however once my membership expires I will not renew. I am turned off by the starter package I received. They really push the MLM thing. Plus they want me to buy vitamins as well! Give me a break.
I even went to that Bob the oil guy's web site. The forums mainly consist of common everyday people that give advice about motor oil.
No concrete info just a bunch of "you shouldn't have any problems/they can't void your warranty/you cab use 5w30 instead of 5w20" etc.
Bottom line is do/use what the manual says.
The API and ILSAC have standards that must be met to display certification.
I have concluded that be it a conventional oil, synthetic, designer or not, even the cheapo Walmart oil, as long as it meets the service requirements, and is changed when called for in the owners manual, then all is well.
Agree or disagree?
Am I putting too much faith in the API service requirements, and Mazda's millions of dollars of research, and recommendations?
Or do I believe everything I read on the internet and waste precious time researching and worrying about all the many different opinions, and advice?
I do believe a synthetic has advantages over conventional oil, but I am starting to doubt that the pricier "designer" synthetics offer much better performance than a regular synthetic.
Each manufacturer says that they are the best, first, nothing out performs, etc.
They all have the same pie charts and graphs that show they are the "best" compared to the others.
They all also have tons of technical info available that would give a rocket scientist a mental meltdown.
I would love to use RP, or Redline. They are not readily available in stores (Canadiantire carries redline but not in 5w20). Castrol syntec 5w20, no problem. I can buy it off the shelf.
I am an Amsoil preffered customer, however once my membership expires I will not renew. I am turned off by the starter package I received. They really push the MLM thing. Plus they want me to buy vitamins as well! Give me a break.
I even went to that Bob the oil guy's web site. The forums mainly consist of common everyday people that give advice about motor oil.
No concrete info just a bunch of "you shouldn't have any problems/they can't void your warranty/you cab use 5w30 instead of 5w20" etc.
Bottom line is do/use what the manual says.
The API and ILSAC have standards that must be met to display certification.
I have concluded that be it a conventional oil, synthetic, designer or not, even the cheapo Walmart oil, as long as it meets the service requirements, and is changed when called for in the owners manual, then all is well.
Agree or disagree?
Am I putting too much faith in the API service requirements, and Mazda's millions of dollars of research, and recommendations?
Or do I believe everything I read on the internet and waste precious time researching and worrying about all the many different opinions, and advice?
#3
The only way to find the "best" oil for your application is with UOA's (Used oil analysis).
Its your driving style, your environment, and your car. All those variables mean that individual recommendations will vary from individual. Track alot? You'll be running a totally different oil then someone just driving on the highway. Lots of stop and go? Most people will tell you to just buy a bike.
UOA's will also tell you if a particular oil's additive package is depleting during your OCI (oil change interval). Running an extended OCI without a UOA is a recepie for disaster. This is where synthetics really show their worth. Where most dyno oils deplete most of their additive package by 4-5k, most synthetics are only half way done. However you'll never know how far you can take your particular combination of oil unless you have an analysis done.
There's been cases of 350Z owns cutting their lead wear from 2 ppm (lead is primarily bearing wear) every 1k to almost zero, just from swapping to a different oil type.
Oils are very different and vary greatly between brands...just because they all say 10w-30 or 5w-20, doesn't even scratch the surface of their differences.
The stock oil (5w-20 motorcraft semi-syn) is one of the best oils you can run for the price, and will do just dandy following the manufacturers "servere" maintaince schedule (5000 miles I believe, I'm sure other owners would be more specific on their recommendations).
Motorcraft 5w-20 semi-syn is about 1.40/qt at wallmart.
Its your driving style, your environment, and your car. All those variables mean that individual recommendations will vary from individual. Track alot? You'll be running a totally different oil then someone just driving on the highway. Lots of stop and go? Most people will tell you to just buy a bike.
UOA's will also tell you if a particular oil's additive package is depleting during your OCI (oil change interval). Running an extended OCI without a UOA is a recepie for disaster. This is where synthetics really show their worth. Where most dyno oils deplete most of their additive package by 4-5k, most synthetics are only half way done. However you'll never know how far you can take your particular combination of oil unless you have an analysis done.
There's been cases of 350Z owns cutting their lead wear from 2 ppm (lead is primarily bearing wear) every 1k to almost zero, just from swapping to a different oil type.
Oils are very different and vary greatly between brands...just because they all say 10w-30 or 5w-20, doesn't even scratch the surface of their differences.
The stock oil (5w-20 motorcraft semi-syn) is one of the best oils you can run for the price, and will do just dandy following the manufacturers "servere" maintaince schedule (5000 miles I believe, I'm sure other owners would be more specific on their recommendations).
Motorcraft 5w-20 semi-syn is about 1.40/qt at wallmart.
#4
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
UOA, not gonna go there. While I believe it is a good thing, it would just be another thing to analyze to death.
I am going with Blitz on this one. Take your pick and away you go.
Yes oils vary from brand to brand, but the API standard doesnt vary.
Follow the manual and all is good.
I have not heard of the 350z oil thing.
I haave not seen motorcraft semi synth at Walmart.
Are you in the US maybe?
I am going with Blitz on this one. Take your pick and away you go.
Yes oils vary from brand to brand, but the API standard doesnt vary.
Follow the manual and all is good.
I have not heard of the 350z oil thing.
I haave not seen motorcraft semi synth at Walmart.
Are you in the US maybe?
#5
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 429
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Here we go again:
http://www.performancemotoroil.com/Royal_Purple_info
Royal purple is talked about as a good oil. Not according to Amsoil.
Who the hell do you believe anymore?
http://www.performancemotoroil.com/Royal_Purple_info
Royal purple is talked about as a good oil. Not according to Amsoil.
Who the hell do you believe anymore?
#7
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 429
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
I agree totally. I am afraid to do a UOA. Once I start something I go overboard and it becomes obbsesive.
Isnt it kind of pointless though because by the time you try different oils, and finally figure out which one is the best, its too late? Time for a new car?
Is there a data base somewhere that people have listed different brands of oils they have tested?
Rather than the usual company charts/graphs/we are better than so and so, a UOA does not lie.
Isnt it kind of pointless though because by the time you try different oils, and finally figure out which one is the best, its too late? Time for a new car?
Is there a data base somewhere that people have listed different brands of oils they have tested?
Rather than the usual company charts/graphs/we are better than so and so, a UOA does not lie.
#9
Used oil analysis. (UOA's).
http://www.blackstone-labs.com
Its also the "factory" oil used in every 03/04/05 New Mazda. 3,6, tribute, MPV, etc etc.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com
Its also the "factory" oil used in every 03/04/05 New Mazda. 3,6, tribute, MPV, etc etc.
Last edited by crossbow; 11-07-2004 at 01:00 PM.
#11
Originally Posted by crossbow
Used oil analysis. (UOA's).
http://www.blackstone-labs.com
Its also the "factory" oil used in every 03/04/05 New Mazda. 3,6, tribute, MPV, etc etc.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com
Its also the "factory" oil used in every 03/04/05 New Mazda. 3,6, tribute, MPV, etc etc.
I sent an e-mail to Mazda North American Operations, so I'll let you all know what they say. Not that the factory oil is "best" but at least you know the "official" oil.
Last edited by quack_p; 11-11-2004 at 12:02 AM.
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