things to look at when i am buying the 8
#1
things to look at when i am buying the 8
I am looking forward to buy it, and looking at a car this coming up weekend.
but what should I look at? when i drive?
mechanically?
someone told me to listen to idle. make sure its quite...
how can i tell that? in idle where is rpm supposed to be?
and just mechnically what i should look at in a car.
since its rotary, i got no idea.
thanks fellas.
but what should I look at? when i drive?
mechanically?
someone told me to listen to idle. make sure its quite...
how can i tell that? in idle where is rpm supposed to be?
and just mechnically what i should look at in a car.
since its rotary, i got no idea.
thanks fellas.
#3
Not much.....
There's not much to look for, they either work or they don't.....
Check the oil is up to the full mark on the dipstick - you won't be able to tell anything by looking, but the '8 uses oil to lubricate seals, so the level will drop over time. A low oil level would indicate (to me) that the owner didn't know (or didn't give a) ****.
Find out if it's had all the recalls done - it gets new plugs, an updated computer program etc., very worthwhile doing.
Take a look in the lower front grille with a flashlight, look for obvious large damage to the rad or a/c condensor.
Read the DIY on how to check the air filter, see if it's got oil on it and needs replacing.
S
Check the oil is up to the full mark on the dipstick - you won't be able to tell anything by looking, but the '8 uses oil to lubricate seals, so the level will drop over time. A low oil level would indicate (to me) that the owner didn't know (or didn't give a) ****.
Find out if it's had all the recalls done - it gets new plugs, an updated computer program etc., very worthwhile doing.
Take a look in the lower front grille with a flashlight, look for obvious large damage to the rad or a/c condensor.
Read the DIY on how to check the air filter, see if it's got oil on it and needs replacing.
S
#4
If it's new you shouldnt have to look at much... if it's used then it's kinda hard to tell specifically what to look for. If you buy it, be sure to check oil levels since it does burn oil but that's when you own it. If it's used you might want to find out if the recall work has been done. That's all I can think of for now
#6
And don't forget...A little honest grime never hurt anyone... But if things look unusually clean or new...definately pull a carfax on it or do some inspecting of the car's structure on your own. However, if the car is just absolutely filthy...I'd turn around and leave.
Don't be like me. Don't beat the **** out of it on a test drive. But drive it soft, hard, then soft again. Always ask or warn before you do something. You have a right to a thorough test drive. Hitting the redline in one or two gears won't do any damage (so long as you've got oil and the thing isn't overheating). Watch for hesitations or sluggishness, etc.
Make sure all lights work, all switches, wheel curbing... From 40mph, put it in a high gear and floor it. If the engine eventually starts to take off on the revs but you're not going any faster, then the clutch is gone. Oh, and don't stall it..
Make sure nothing is leaking on the underside of the engine/transmission. If it's really oily down there, then assume something is leaking. Talk with the owner and see what they know. Do they let it warm up at all? Cool down? Do they drive it hard now and then to make sure Carbon Deposits don't build up in the engine?
Make sure it isn't warmed up by the time you get there. You want it dead cold. After your test drive..shut the car off...wait maybe a minute and then crank it up again.
Utilize your gut feeling, too. Above all, this is what really has worked for me over time. I've seen some decent deals on cars I've really, really, really wanted. They looked good in the ad, looked and ran good upon seeing it...but something didn't sit right with me...so I walked away.
If something to you feels wrong, leave the car. You can always find another.
But above all...this is the first possible deal breaker. Ask them if you can bring your mechanic!!! I tell people the dead truth. My mechanic is the best in my area, and even most of the surrounding counties as far as I know. Everyone knows him, he's been in business forever, and if there is a problem you bet your *** he will find it. After telling them a variant of that truth, I ask if I can bring him along. If they say no, hesitate or just say 'It's a good running car", then I won't go look at it. You're the buyer. They're at your mercy. They want to sell the car.
Haggle on the price, and don't budge from your ground. This is why I get such good deals on the cars I've bought and sold. Say someone wanted 2,000 for their car. I'll offer them a lower price..say, 1,500 or less, depending on the car. Usually they will counter offer. Also depending on the person, I'll either counter their counter offer with something in the middle, or stand my ground. With cash in your hand, it's hard for them to refuse most of the time.
Know what the car is worth by blue book, as most people go by that. If they argue with that price, make sure you've got the printout and explain to them why the car is overpriced. Let's say the windshield is cracked, it needs tires and brakes, yet they're still asking the blue book price. Their stupidity isn't your problem. I'll flat out tell someone that a car isn't worth what they're asking, and I'll tell them why.
This has always gotten me what I want...so....read it over, take it in and put your own spin on it. Everyone is different, but this technique has always worked for me.
Don't be like me. Don't beat the **** out of it on a test drive. But drive it soft, hard, then soft again. Always ask or warn before you do something. You have a right to a thorough test drive. Hitting the redline in one or two gears won't do any damage (so long as you've got oil and the thing isn't overheating). Watch for hesitations or sluggishness, etc.
Make sure all lights work, all switches, wheel curbing... From 40mph, put it in a high gear and floor it. If the engine eventually starts to take off on the revs but you're not going any faster, then the clutch is gone. Oh, and don't stall it..
Make sure nothing is leaking on the underside of the engine/transmission. If it's really oily down there, then assume something is leaking. Talk with the owner and see what they know. Do they let it warm up at all? Cool down? Do they drive it hard now and then to make sure Carbon Deposits don't build up in the engine?
Make sure it isn't warmed up by the time you get there. You want it dead cold. After your test drive..shut the car off...wait maybe a minute and then crank it up again.
Utilize your gut feeling, too. Above all, this is what really has worked for me over time. I've seen some decent deals on cars I've really, really, really wanted. They looked good in the ad, looked and ran good upon seeing it...but something didn't sit right with me...so I walked away.
If something to you feels wrong, leave the car. You can always find another.
But above all...this is the first possible deal breaker. Ask them if you can bring your mechanic!!! I tell people the dead truth. My mechanic is the best in my area, and even most of the surrounding counties as far as I know. Everyone knows him, he's been in business forever, and if there is a problem you bet your *** he will find it. After telling them a variant of that truth, I ask if I can bring him along. If they say no, hesitate or just say 'It's a good running car", then I won't go look at it. You're the buyer. They're at your mercy. They want to sell the car.
Haggle on the price, and don't budge from your ground. This is why I get such good deals on the cars I've bought and sold. Say someone wanted 2,000 for their car. I'll offer them a lower price..say, 1,500 or less, depending on the car. Usually they will counter offer. Also depending on the person, I'll either counter their counter offer with something in the middle, or stand my ground. With cash in your hand, it's hard for them to refuse most of the time.
Know what the car is worth by blue book, as most people go by that. If they argue with that price, make sure you've got the printout and explain to them why the car is overpriced. Let's say the windshield is cracked, it needs tires and brakes, yet they're still asking the blue book price. Their stupidity isn't your problem. I'll flat out tell someone that a car isn't worth what they're asking, and I'll tell them why.
This has always gotten me what I want...so....read it over, take it in and put your own spin on it. Everyone is different, but this technique has always worked for me.
Last edited by Rotarctica; 10-23-2006 at 06:14 PM.
#7
thank y'll for looking out.
thank you y'll for looking out again!
This is car is from my friend.
he had crash in the front. had to get a new bumper and hood.
he got money from insurance and replaced it with veilside bodykit and CB hood.
he said it didnt effect the engine. or any mechanically.
not sure, how to prove it.
He is going to get car inspected before give it to me, though.
but i will def check the list you guys made for me.
This is car is from my friend.
he had crash in the front. had to get a new bumper and hood.
he got money from insurance and replaced it with veilside bodykit and CB hood.
he said it didnt effect the engine. or any mechanically.
not sure, how to prove it.
He is going to get car inspected before give it to me, though.
but i will def check the list you guys made for me.
#9
Look at the car in bright daylight. Look for differences in the color of fenders and doors and other body panels. A good eye can tell their is new paint by the texture (orange peel) on the suface. Look at the oil cooler/coolers. Check the front lip (black plastic) underneath the front bumper edge for scaring to see if the prior owner liked curbs. See how straight the steering wheel is (horizontal) when driving on a flat road. Apply the brakes in an open area and let go of the wheel and see if it pulls to either side. Do not do this at 70 MPH!!! Look at the rubber mouldings for paint overspray. Check the bolts on the fenders under the hood for chipping of the paint. Sign that someone has had a wrench on it. Look for scratching and scaring underneath the vehicle. Off roading.
Just use some common sense and look closely.
Just use some common sense and look closely.
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