Too Good to Be True???
#26
II SOCIETY
Join Date: Nov 2006
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salvaged title means you may never be able to trade it into a dealer and you'll never get anything near blue or black book value. Notwithstanding, if you are going to keep the car FOREVER, and I do mean FOREVER, and it is mechanically sound with all the recalls, etc. done you should be okay.
Financially--it'd be better to pay extra for a clean title but, like I said, if this does not bother you (some cars that are stolen and not damaged get "totaled" (Salvaged) and some are totalled when the damages exceed the value of the car).
Financially--it'd be better to pay extra for a clean title but, like I said, if this does not bother you (some cars that are stolen and not damaged get "totaled" (Salvaged) and some are totalled when the damages exceed the value of the car).
#27
These are all good ideas to buy the car i want, but i think i will be better off buying a clean title and buyin a car from a personal seller. The part about getting the loan how good of a credit do u have to have to get a lone from aproximately $20,000. I think the credit is in the 600s but i dunno which bank like Chase, Washington Mutual, etc....
#29
doin' the bull dance
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The credit score affects the APR. 600 or less = higher rates. The ability to get a loan is generally more a question of what kind of credit history you have.
i.e. - if you're 16-18 and have yet to ever have any bills/credit cards in your name, you have no credit history. If this is you, you'll likely need someone to co-sign for the loan.
If you have a few years of credit history you should be able to get a loan, and it becomes a Q of credit score (based on what is in your credit history) to determine the APR. (assuming you are not some deadbeat who owes $$$ all over the place & have collections agencies calling, that is )
There are other factors, but that's the really bare bones gist of it.
i.e. - if you're 16-18 and have yet to ever have any bills/credit cards in your name, you have no credit history. If this is you, you'll likely need someone to co-sign for the loan.
If you have a few years of credit history you should be able to get a loan, and it becomes a Q of credit score (based on what is in your credit history) to determine the APR. (assuming you are not some deadbeat who owes $$$ all over the place & have collections agencies calling, that is )
There are other factors, but that's the really bare bones gist of it.
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