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Flushed brake fluid...well almost complete flush. I stripped the bleeder valve on the last wheel, driver side front. Whatever, ordered Russell's speedvalves and I'll finish it up next weekend.
Changed my drivers side window motor today.
What a nightmare...lol
Every post I've read said it's easy as hell, and for the most part it is, but if that stupid gear on the back side of the panel gets loose, you are f*cked.
Still not hard, but more work than I bargained for. About an hour total from start to finish.
Installed OEM front lip. It was an total impulse buy after coming across a new oem lip while on a random walk on ebay late at night haha. Figured new genuine oem appearance parts are becoming increasingly rare so why not. In hind sight I should of bought it years ago!
Installed it in less then an hour. Perfect fit as expected from genuine Mazda parts and the six drill hole locations are factory marked on the inside of the front bumper and were spot on. Drilled a small pilot hole then a 7 mm hole (9/32 inch actually=7.14mm) and bam no hassle install.
Got the rattle in the rear exhaust shield fixed. Tooling around admiring my handiwork when the driver rear spring packed it in. Got a set of 4 junkyard coil overs waiting to go in, just hadn't expected it to be such a priority. That's the way the cookie crumbles. Anyone buy a car via the internet? Waiting on a manual 06 Mazda5 to complete shipping from TN. Figured the chances of getting screwed more or less the same as local, with a vastly superior selection. Fingers crossed.
Changed my oil, sealed the exhaust leak between my midpipe and catback, and put my track wheels on in preparation for a track day this Saturday. This one is my favorite little 1.3 mile track that has a ton of elevation changes. Getting pumped!
Last edited by Steve Dallas; 04-01-2015 at 07:08 AM.
Spent all yesterday night doing my front brakes (first time DIY). Maybe I'm really bad at it, but it took a really long time. Wish I had access lift, because I found everything super awkward to reach/position at ground level.
The result - covered head to toe in brake dust, exhausted, fresh pads and new driver side rotor, could not get the passenger side rotor off because the Phillips head retaining screws had seized and I tore 1 of them up when my the driver tip slipped. Really frustrating because I'll have to take the whole thing apart again to fix it and get the fresh rotor on
On the upside, at least my brakes still appear to be working. BTW what used to be called AXXIS ULT brake pads, are now sold as PBR brand in the US.
Spent all yesterday night doing my front brakes (first time DIY). Maybe I'm really bad at it, but it took a really long time. Wish I had access lift, because I found everything super awkward to reach/position at ground level.
The result - covered head to toe in brake dust, exhausted, fresh pads and new driver side rotor, could not get the passenger side rotor off because the Phillips head retaining screws had seized and I tore 1 of them up when my the driver tip slipped. Really frustrating because I'll have to take the whole thing apart again to fix it and get the fresh rotor on
On the upside, at least my brakes still appear to be working. BTW what used to be called AXXIS ULT brake pads, are now sold as PBR brand in the US.
Just drill out the head of the screw, it'll come right off.
Spent all yesterday night doing my front brakes (first time DIY). Maybe I'm really bad at it, but it took a really long time. Wish I had access lift, because I found everything super awkward to reach/position at ground level.
The result - covered head to toe in brake dust, exhausted, fresh pads and new driver side rotor, could not get the passenger side rotor off because the Phillips head retaining screws had seized and I tore 1 of them up when my the driver tip slipped. Really frustrating because I'll have to take the whole thing apart again to fix it and get the fresh rotor on
On the upside, at least my brakes still appear to be working. BTW what used to be called AXXIS ULT brake pads, are now sold as PBR brand in the US.
Did you use an impact screwdriver?
I just did my first diy brake job last week but I only changed the pads and flushed the fluids. Everything went smoothly until on the very last wheel I stripped the passenger front brake bleeder.
I just got the Russell Speed Bleeders in the mail today but now I'm thinking I may as well change my 9 year old brake lines to stainless steel while I'm at ... again.
Just drill out the head of the screw, it'll come right off.
It is better to use the right tool for the job and soak them with a penetrating oil, then go after them with an electric impact fitted with an impact rated #3 Phillips bit. They are called "safety" screws for a reason. Drilling them out should be a last resort.
Originally Posted by GTSimmo
Did you use an impact screwdriver?
Exactly!
Originally Posted by GTSimmo
I just did my first diy brake job last week but I only changed the pads and flushed the fluids. Everything went smoothly until on the very last wheel I stripped the passenger front brake bleeder.
I just got the Russell Speed Bleeders in the mail today but now I'm thinking I may as well change my 9 year old brake lines to stainless steel while I'm at ... again.
Rock Auto, at one time, had StopTech stainless lines for $75 for all 4 wheels. I picked them up when I was buying something for my son's car last year and am happy with them.
I tried speed bleeders on my car, but I never could get them so seal reliably. Of course, I bleed my brakes several times a year, so it could be they don't stand up to that much use but would be fine for a daily driver.
Changed my oil and oil filter. Was a pita to do the oil. The last time jiffy lube (previous owner) changed it they used a air ratchet to put the drain plug on. Needless to say it was waayyy too tight....
No, I used a #2 Phillips bit with an adapter to a ratchet I then tried the right sized bit, but at that point it was too late. I'll attempt to remove it using an Easy-Out drill bit.
No, I used a #2 Phillips bit with an adapter to a ratchet I then tried the right sized bit, but at that point it was too late. I'll attempt to remove it using an Easy-Out drill bit.
You can probably use a regular drill to get the head off, then take the rotor off and the rest of it will probably screw right out with a pair of pliers.
Today, I removed the winter wheels off my RX8. cleaned the brakes and lubricated the sliders. Installed a set of 20mm. spacers and mounted the OEM 18" wheels with brand new set of Summer Performance 'Continental Extreme Contact DW's'
Unfortunately, after driving the car, the spacers had to go. The studs were fouling on the back/inside of the wheels. Too bad, the car looked awesome !
An impact hammer is a useful thing to have. Funny enough, I don't think I've needed mine once since I bought it several years ago, but I certainly needed it several times before that.
New radiator, thermostat, heat sensor, coolant reservoir, upper hose, water pump and topped off oil. Runs good now without overheating, except my coolant light is on when I first start the car, but then it turns off after it warms up a bit.
03-24-2015, 08:46 PM
I then tried the right sized bit, but at that point it was too late. I'll attempt to remove it using an Easy-Out drill bit.
