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RX-8 Discussion General discussion about the RX-8 that doesn't fit in one of the specialty forums.

What if I never go above 5k?

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Old 06-08-2005, 10:35 AM
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Strangely enough carbon lock has only been a problem on the auto's in hot southern states. Not generalizing or being biased here but the only problems with carbon lock that have been reported so far have also been primarily with women. Most of them just get in and drive while alot of men can't keep their foot out of it. So much for easy driving being good for the car!
This is exactly my problem. She doesn't drive it slow... but she doesn't really nail it either, I would say the auto is shifting around 4.5 to 5k on average when she is driving it. Will it be enough for me to take it out once every week or two when I wash it and nail it a couple of times?

Thanks
Old 06-08-2005, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by rotarygod
The biggest problem causing carbon buildup is the fact that the engine is getting motor oil injected into it. Motor oil doesn't like to mix with gas or burn cleanly. Different oils have different chemical additives and ash content that can build up as they are being burned. This is why I like Royal Purple synthetic. No ash. The best thing to do would be to not inject motor oil at all but rather the inject an oil that is designed to mix with gas and burn cleanly, 2 stroke oil. It wouldn't be hard to modify the vehicle to accept 2 stroke oil from a separate reservoir (I have this on 1 of my RX-7's), but most people wouldn't think about filling this up or would look at this as a hassle associated with this car so Mazda would never do it. Unfortunate.

Strangely enough carbon lock has only been a problem on the auto's in hot southern states. Not generalizing or being biased here but the only problems with carbon lock that have been reported so far have also been primarily with women. Most of them just get in and drive while alot of men can't keep their foot out of it. So much for easy driving being good for the car!
Now you got me a little confused. I always thought (from what I've been reading at least) that synthetic oils are definetly not good to use in this car because it requires higher temperatures to burn...now you're saying you like to use royal purple synthetic...so what should I use
Old 06-08-2005, 11:11 AM
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I think the consensus is that is still up to debate and personal preference. There are points to each argument. Royal Purple, from what I gather, is a very high quality synthetic that some are reporting good success with. I'm not sure what that does to warranty, so I think when my warranty expires I might consider the switch but until then, I'm sticking to regular oil.
Old 06-08-2005, 11:11 AM
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The TOTAL wear is greater in the second case, which is startUpWear + additionalHighwayWear.
Highway wear on a vehicle is negligible. There is almost nothing better for a car then highway driving.

1) Your using a tiny amount of power to maintain the speed.
2) There is plenty of airflow through the radiator and oil coolers
3) Everything is at operating temperature and combustion byproducts are kept in check because of this.
4) Oil pressure is constant and consistent, as is the coolant pressure, the fuel pressure, everything is just running in the happy consistent green range.

Ironically you'd actually get less overall wear on the engine/drivetrain driving it on the highway, then letting it sit in a garage and slowly rot.

Best case example...I know this isn't a rotary but oh well. A 6i owner traveled about 7000 miles completely on the highway (multiple transtate driving) ...the wear metals were incredibly low compared to other UOA's of mixed 50/50 driving.

Heres the wear metals of a 50/50 driver at 3750 miles on the oil.
http://www.mazda6tech.com/images/uoa/oakfanuoa.gif

Here's the wear metals of the trans-state trip at 7,736 miles on the oil.
http://www.mazda6tech.com/images/uoa/janiceuoa2.gif

She went over twice the distance, and had LESS overall wear then the fellow doing mixed driving. (Both using synthetic)

Not only that, the UOA indicated she could have gone 9-10,000 miles on mobil1 and still been in the green as far as additive levels were concerned.

As for the coolant gauge being a dummy gauge. Its not a dummy gauge persay, its just got a very broad dead zone.

Aka it reaches middle before the car's at operating temp, and says there for a range of about 50-60F before it starts moving up.

Last edited by crossbow; 06-08-2005 at 11:14 AM.
Old 06-14-2005, 10:20 AM
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Sometimes it can also be tough to rev the engine because either:
(a) The car is started and almost immediately enters the highway (common in TX). I drive 40 miles to destination with no lights in between. So, initially the car is not warmed up (no revving), and in between the only chance it gets is to arbitrarily shift it down to second and give 'er a good rev just for the heck of it.
It just seems kinda dumb to be cruising along and then drop it in 2nd, waste some gas, and put it back into 6th.

(b) In normal city driving, I guess you have to rev it in 1st gear only, because revving in 2nd gear leads to speeding tickets...



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