All new SAMCO couplers came with my kit so I'm not sure what size it is but it is a bitch to get on the TB. I have to manhandle it and use a flat head screw driver to get it on.

A trick with the couplers to get them on and help them seal is to use super hold (#10 or whatever the highest is) hair spray. You spray it on and it helps slide the couplers on and then when it dries it helps hold them there and seal. Bumblebeerx8 taught me that trick and it works like a champ.

 

Ok another question, what's everyone's opinion on welding an 1/8" Npt bung onto the vacuum port on an internal wastegate actuator? Is it possible to damage the internal diaphragm from the heat from welding?

 

Yea I've heard of the hairspray trick before, but it's usually used by people with cars running much higher boost levels than we do.

 

Hmmmmm. Not sure on the one, it's a pretty small piece. Is it aluminum? I would PM bumblebeerx8, he is the welding expert.

 

I run mad best yo', I'm at like 6psi right now.

 

Nope, Steel... After looking at the Wastegate Actuator I'm using I should be able to have it welded on at the end of the existing nipple so it wouldn't be too close to the main body of the actuator, it should be fine.

DAMN


Ok let's keep this going, has anyone tapped the UIM for a Vacuum source?

 

If it's steel it should be fine. I have not tapped the UIM but I did order a vacuum distribution block. Why do you want to tap it?

 

To screw in a 1/8" Npt fitting for the push to connect fittings used with hard vacuum lines.

 

Gotcha. I have an extra UIM, I should try it

 

LOL I don't see why it wouldn't work, you would just have to be careful not to over tighten the fitting and strip the threads.

 

Yeah and the vacuum lines wouldn't pull too much on it. I would tap the "catch can" (what FSM calls it) flat section of the UIM.

 

If I decide to tap it I'll probably just do it near the VFAD Nipple

 

Well if you screw it up, let me know, I have an UIM or two laying around

 

Haha Thanks

Now to decide if I want to use an inline filter for the Oil Feed.

Like this one...
Forced Performance Turbochargers: FP -4 AN Inline Filter

 

welcome to the wire tucked club.. Im doing my fuse box next

 

Thanks

I'm fine with the ECU and Fuse Box being there right now, I really just wanted to get rid of those two main harnesses running along the engine bay, it really cleans up the look. But who knows when I'll get the urge to do something else in the future haha.

Good Luck

 

Hit major snag #1 today

The piece of **** Greddy Cast Manifold is cracked!
After stripping off whatever coating was on it previously it exposed a crack, about 1-1 1/2" long that goes all the way through on the rear most runner.
Spoke to multiple shops and pretty much got the same answer. Welding cast is not recommended and will most likely crack again.

Solution:
Take a chance and have someone weld it?
or
Build a Custom Tubular Stainless Steel Manifold?

Leaning towards the latter

 

Build a custom tubular.

 

We'll see what happens, Chris has someone that should be able to properly weld it like they did with his Manifold.

It can be done but most are not equipped to do it properly, it requires preheating to 800+ degrees, Welding, then back in the oven to keep an even temp, and then letting it air cool for hours, so it cools evenly and doesn't crack again.

 

For anyone interested here's a really good reference regarding cast iron welding.
Check out the two links towards the bottom of the page.
Cast Iron Welding

 

Just got my order of Wire Sleeving and Heat Shrink so I can get more work done on the wire tuck...

 

Had a chance to get some work done on the wiring today...

I was able to get the harness ran back into the car and grommet in place pretty easily.



Harness re-wrapped in original split wire loom to protect it from abrasions.




Running back into the engine bay to the firewall, the other wire leads up the the windshield wiper motor.



Harness all wrapped back up.



MAF Wiring Sleeved, also for anyone who asks about extending the MAF wiring, You are able to pull the wires all the way back through the main harness to the fuse box area, which is what I did, this would give me more than enough slack to put the MAF almost anywhere in the engine bay. As you can see in this pic it reaches all the way to the passenger side strut tower.



Larger Diameter intake piping to match the Compressor Inlet of my Turbo 2.75"...Sorry for the crappy cell phone pic.


Still waiting on getting the manifold back, and a pretty big parts order which should come in about two weeks.

 

^^Will you also be relocating your battery for more space?

 

Yea battery harness will be redone and the battery will be relocated to the trunk.

 

That engine bay is going to look fantastic.