Santa's present
#26
One ball, corner pocket
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,053
Likes: 1
From: Fontucky, right next to Patriotville
The RB sides and rear go well with the front....and the simulated MS paint scheme around the bottom is nice. Now for some race wheels to finish out the look. That Japan thread should give you plenty of options to consider....thanks for sharing the pics...it has been a while now, that you've had the kit without pictures...and all the while, you played along as others were Razzing you in the other thread for being "stock"....
#30
Since the paint scheme is an optical illusion and looks close to stock:
Gee... I think DeeDubb would be happy as a pig in **** since he hates body kits.
The fitment is perfect with RB sides and rear. I did a little sanding on the rear aero flares.
I do need to give them feedback on the rear flares. We assembled it in 60 degree weather, then let it sit for 4 hours drove home and let it sit for a week in 50 degree garage then drove through rain storm and the double sided tape is comming off one flare. Prepartion was done correctly. The tape does not suite the application due to the curvature of the rear bumper.
We notice the tape was ultra thin and thought it should be thicker. I opted to not use a thicker tape and use the RB tape as a test.
My conclusion is to recomend using GE II Silicone adhesive. I'm sure it peels off with very little work if one decided to remove the flares and sell them. The other thing I would recomend would be to increase the width of the flares to be wider in the wheel well area so you can drill a hole to mount them.
We are very sceptical about the rear Aero's holding up over time and track use. I drilled a hole in the bottom made a bracket from True Value Hardware store material and used the exsisting bumper screw to fasten it to the flare. While this helps it will not prevent the flares from coming off. If screws were possible in the wheel well it would be rock solid.
We also were concerned about the side skirts. No instructions to drill a whole in the rear to attach. Plenty of material there to do it. I've seen many a side skirt bow, fall off or hang. RB just wanted to use the silcone as attachment.
Well I'm old and like mechanical things. Mechanics don't break. No way those skirts are coming off with those screws. Just a little extra work. Remove wheel, drill holes insert screw and your done. The front part of the skirts use the exsisting plastic tabs in the wheel well.
This is why I want screws for the rear Aero flares. Rock solid, not coming off unless your in a bad accident and even then they may not come off.
One can always use a high tech adheisive that bonds like cement, but then you will never be able to remove them with out damaging the bumper.
I will post close up shots of the perfect fitment at a later date.
I highly recomend the RB body products as the fit is perfect, and it's easy to attach.
Gee... I think DeeDubb would be happy as a pig in **** since he hates body kits.
The fitment is perfect with RB sides and rear. I did a little sanding on the rear aero flares.
I do need to give them feedback on the rear flares. We assembled it in 60 degree weather, then let it sit for 4 hours drove home and let it sit for a week in 50 degree garage then drove through rain storm and the double sided tape is comming off one flare. Prepartion was done correctly. The tape does not suite the application due to the curvature of the rear bumper.
We notice the tape was ultra thin and thought it should be thicker. I opted to not use a thicker tape and use the RB tape as a test.
My conclusion is to recomend using GE II Silicone adhesive. I'm sure it peels off with very little work if one decided to remove the flares and sell them. The other thing I would recomend would be to increase the width of the flares to be wider in the wheel well area so you can drill a hole to mount them.
We are very sceptical about the rear Aero's holding up over time and track use. I drilled a hole in the bottom made a bracket from True Value Hardware store material and used the exsisting bumper screw to fasten it to the flare. While this helps it will not prevent the flares from coming off. If screws were possible in the wheel well it would be rock solid.
We also were concerned about the side skirts. No instructions to drill a whole in the rear to attach. Plenty of material there to do it. I've seen many a side skirt bow, fall off or hang. RB just wanted to use the silcone as attachment.
Well I'm old and like mechanical things. Mechanics don't break. No way those skirts are coming off with those screws. Just a little extra work. Remove wheel, drill holes insert screw and your done. The front part of the skirts use the exsisting plastic tabs in the wheel well.
This is why I want screws for the rear Aero flares. Rock solid, not coming off unless your in a bad accident and even then they may not come off.
One can always use a high tech adheisive that bonds like cement, but then you will never be able to remove them with out damaging the bumper.
I will post close up shots of the perfect fitment at a later date.
I highly recomend the RB body products as the fit is perfect, and it's easy to attach.
#31
RB Sides/Rear = Very Subtle
Re-Amemiya Front = Very Aggressive
Hmm - i wouldnt have gond with the same combo.
I still dont know whats giong on with those invisible side skirts. Maybe a dark grey would of been better than a solid black color.
-hS
Re-Amemiya Front = Very Aggressive
Hmm - i wouldnt have gond with the same combo.
I still dont know whats giong on with those invisible side skirts. Maybe a dark grey would of been better than a solid black color.
-hS
#32
Ahh if I were to take a close up picture you would see the beauty but not the whole car. You will see when I post again.
Yes, my theme was going to be the Mazda Grey but it was too much of a look a like MS kit that uses light grey.
The skirts are 5" max height with a stripe that is about an 1 1/2" to 1".
This makes the the lines flow from front to back. The back bumper is black, front spitter is black and the side skirts have the connecting line.
The optical illusion gives it a different look in photos. (Sleeper, not lowered, now for a AF SC)
I didn't want some big bulky side skirts. They look bolted on and turn off several people like DeeDubb. I can always switch the color to all Red or to a Red and Grey scheme for the cost of paint.
Not only are many skirts bulky they are impractical for track use. This is a track car with flare.
Yes, my theme was going to be the Mazda Grey but it was too much of a look a like MS kit that uses light grey.
The skirts are 5" max height with a stripe that is about an 1 1/2" to 1".
This makes the the lines flow from front to back. The back bumper is black, front spitter is black and the side skirts have the connecting line.
The optical illusion gives it a different look in photos. (Sleeper, not lowered, now for a AF SC)
I didn't want some big bulky side skirts. They look bolted on and turn off several people like DeeDubb. I can always switch the color to all Red or to a Red and Grey scheme for the cost of paint.
Not only are many skirts bulky they are impractical for track use. This is a track car with flare.
Last edited by Razz1; 12-19-2006 at 10:24 PM.
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