05 HP 13b renesis long block 4sale
#1
05 HP 13b renesis long block 4sale
2005 High Power 13B Renesis long block 4sale, the engine has approx. 50,000 miles and is complete with harness, intake manifold (upper and lower), t-body, primary and secondary injectors, flywheel, clutch, eccentric shaft pulley, alternator (mounted) with belt, coil pack wires and plugs, all sensors, engine is ready to run just needs pcm, trans, and exhaust manifold. This engine is not stolen, it was removed March 2006 and has been garaged ever since was originally ment to be used in a sandrail but I never got a chance 2 start that project due to many other projects in the works. More info available upon request feel free to email me at killahb@sbcglobal.net serious inquiries only please. Asking $2000 obo and buyer pays shipping.
#3
Im not sure what the engine was used for. not sure if it was used on highway miles, racing miles, I removed it out of a vehicle as a long block and replaced it with another long block with the same parts attached as the one that was removed, it was removed for the flooding problem before Mazda really had an answer to the fix, the motor was supposed to be sent to japan for testing due to it flooding 5 times, the customer complained to Mazda because it was the fifth repair attempt. Before the engine could be sent back to Mazda they found the reason of the flooding, they had no need for the engine after that.
#5
So when you say LONG BLOCK means it has all the stuff, not just rotors and housing = SHORT BLOCK?
PM me I'd like to learn what a short block rotary is in comparison to a long block rotary.... Thanks.
PM me I'd like to learn what a short block rotary is in comparison to a long block rotary.... Thanks.
#6
Typically, for rotaries, 'long block" is used to refer to a complete, dressed motor with manifolds, water pump housing, etc. A rotary "short block" is still technically a complete motor, just without those parts.
#7
kevin@rotaryresurrection
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,415
Likes: 57
From: east of Knoxville, TN
So wait...unless I am misunderstanding, you're selling an engine with a known flooding issue which is often caused by weak compression, saying it is a good engine, and asking top dollar for it? I'm not here to crap your thread, I'm asking for more info. I'd certainly be interested in the shortblock as a core, but I can't go anywhere near that price. I encourage you to continue looking for buyers, but if you find that you are unable to move it and will consider coming down to the $1000 price range for the block as a core please contact me. You'd still have the alternator, intake, wiring, injectors etc. to sell and recover an extra 3 or 400 bucks.
#8
Let me answer all the questions starting with xsnipergox first off its is not an 06 engine its an 05 and production date was possibly early 05 or late 04 I am an ase technician who works for mazda, you may have mis-interpretted what i ment by Mazda not know the fix for the flooding, which ill go more into detail with that once i get to rotary resurrections reply. And thank you WTWally for helping explain what a long block is to M4F1050 yes a long block is a complete engine that comes with everything needed to swap the without having to remove much from the other engine in this case this engine has everything except an exhaust manifold, tranny, and pcm (which i do have a brand new pcm that has not been vin specific programmed or pmi'd if you know what that means but its for an automatic 2004 RX8, I also have a brand new still in bag never opened engine/starter/alternator or what mazda likes to call an emission harness also for an automatic) the engine im offering is a long block but also includes the alternator and belt which is not a normal attribute for a long block. Now to answer RotaryResurrection, although weak compression can contribute to flooding, this motor before it was removed, out of the 5times it came in before removal it had Mazdas de-flooding procedure done which includes compression testing for both rotors, starter inspection for correct amperage, batt. inspection for correct CCA's, on top of other inspections and tests and also recieved new leading plugs due to them being fowled because of the flooding. weak compression would cause a lack of power which the customer never complained about, i honestly think this guy made such a big deal and complained to the right people to receive a new long block because no one in our shop has ever seen Mazda send a long block for any kind of car this was a one time, one of a kind deal. one if not the one main causes of the flooding is due to short driving distances and not reving the engine high enough to bring engine temps high enough and rotor speed to be able to "burn" any excess fuel/oil in the rotor housing we had 1 lady who would bring her rx8 in at least 3times a month for flooding the engine was replaced and the problems continued once we found out she was only flooding when she moved her car from out of her garage to park out on the street did it flood. Although what im about to say may kinda hurt my lively hood by explaining how to actually get your vehicle running after its flooded (if you dont already know) is to simply crank the engine with gas pedal depressed to kill the injectors, crank it for a few cranks, the engine wont start right away obviosly, so stop the cranking and let off the gas after a few seconds repeat procedure and keep doin this until all fuel is burn or pushed out the exhaust if your doin it correctly you'll smell fuel coming out the tail pipe accompanied with white smoke, you must also ensure you have enough CCA's or batt power to continue because it will drain all batt power, what i do is place a batt charger on the batt and perform the procedure, i also recommend replacing the leading plugs or at least an inspection to see how badly fowled they are. Once Mazda finally realized what the major cause was they began to inform RX8 owners that they get a 1 free deflood there after it became customer pay(or at least that is the way it is at the dealer i work for). I really didnt want to sell it as a short block i have had offers for rotors only and the short block but i chose to sell it as a complete unit its 2k or best offer i would leave it to the buyer to sell what ever parts they dont want off the engine, but if no one bits or offers me something reasonable i will consider you Rotary Resurrection as the first contact i make to sell the short block. Any more comments or questions please feel free to post I do have pictures of the engine but i dont know how to put them on this sight if you go to my craigslist ad i have pics there i can take more pics and send upon request to any1's email.
pics available at this link
http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/car/678395076.html
pics available at this link
http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/car/678395076.html
#10
Too bad you're in CA... I'd buy it... Shipping to Orlando, FL is too much for something this heavy... or should I say light?
I'm already buying a "short block" for $1500, picking it up. If you can throw in the shipping cost or a good help in shipping, I'll gladly buy it for $2000 since it's got "everything-long block..."
I'm already buying a "short block" for $1500, picking it up. If you can throw in the shipping cost or a good help in shipping, I'll gladly buy it for $2000 since it's got "everything-long block..."
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