{ FS } <22K~ Miles RX-8 13B Renesis Engine
11-07-2011 | 06:57 PM
#1
<22K~ Miles RX-8 13B Renesis Engine
Category: Engine - Complete Motors
Price: $1400
Private or Vendor Listing: Private Listing
Part Fits (you may select multiples): Series I
Location (US State/Canada/Int): CA
Item Condition: Used
6port Hi-Power 6 Speed Manual Transmission
2004-2008 R2 Model Series I
Cranked up to 158mph in 6th gear recently on asphalt and still stable with some more revs til redline.
* Works perfectly fine
* No leaks, cracks, or anything bad
* Good Compression
- with a Compression Test of avg 6.5 front and back @ 200rpm at local Mazda Dealership OR avg 7.4 front and back @ 250rpm
* New belts added ~4,000 miles ago
* New GReddy Lightened Performance Pulleys ~4,000 miles ago
- Priced at $200
FOR SALE at $1400 OBO
Selling because of part-out
Last edited by Themare; 02-28-2012 at 05:44 PM.
11-07-2011 | 07:08 PM
#2
Is it a Series 1 or Series 2? you list both, but they are not the same engine, and can't be directly swapped.
If it is a Series 1 engine, then you need to list if it is a 4port or 6 port. If you are selling all the accessories attached, I believe you also need to list what transmission it was originally paired with.
Compression test of 6.5 is not "good", but "passing". More accurate would be "passing but headed toward failure". At 22,000 miles, I would get concerned with that low of a compression number. OEM factory should be high 6s, if not mid to high 7s. I've seen a factory engine in the high 8s.
If you are going to list any compression numbers though (which would be wise), you should list all 6 compression numbers with the RPM of the engine during the test. I admit it's possible that all 6 facings could have exactly the same compression, but it's gotta be rare. That could be stellar compression at horribly low RPM, or terrible compression with RPM over test spec.
If it is a Series 1 engine, then you need to list if it is a 4port or 6 port. If you are selling all the accessories attached, I believe you also need to list what transmission it was originally paired with.
Compression test of 6.5 is not "good", but "passing". More accurate would be "passing but headed toward failure". At 22,000 miles, I would get concerned with that low of a compression number. OEM factory should be high 6s, if not mid to high 7s. I've seen a factory engine in the high 8s.
If you are going to list any compression numbers though (which would be wise), you should list all 6 compression numbers with the RPM of the engine during the test. I admit it's possible that all 6 facings could have exactly the same compression, but it's gotta be rare. That could be stellar compression at horribly low RPM, or terrible compression with RPM over test spec.
11-07-2011 | 07:27 PM
#3
Is it a Series 1 or Series 2? you list both, but they are not the same engine, and can't be directly swapped.
If it is a Series 1 engine, then you need to list if it is a 4port or 6 port. If you are selling all the accessories attached, I believe you also need to list what transmission it was originally paired with.
Compression test of 6.5 is not "good", but "passing". More accurate would be "passing but headed toward failure". At 22,000 miles, I would get concerned with that low of a compression number. OEM factory should be high 6s, if not mid to high 7s. I've seen a factory engine in the high 8s.
If you are going to list any compression numbers though (which would be wise), you should list all 6 compression numbers with the RPM of the engine during the test. I admit it's possible that all 6 facings could have exactly the same compression, but it's gotta be rare. That could be stellar compression at horribly low RPM, or terrible compression with RPM over test spec.
If it is a Series 1 engine, then you need to list if it is a 4port or 6 port. If you are selling all the accessories attached, I believe you also need to list what transmission it was originally paired with.
Compression test of 6.5 is not "good", but "passing". More accurate would be "passing but headed toward failure". At 22,000 miles, I would get concerned with that low of a compression number. OEM factory should be high 6s, if not mid to high 7s. I've seen a factory engine in the high 8s.
If you are going to list any compression numbers though (which would be wise), you should list all 6 compression numbers with the RPM of the engine during the test. I admit it's possible that all 6 facings could have exactly the same compression, but it's gotta be rare. That could be stellar compression at horribly low RPM, or terrible compression with RPM over test spec.
When I had my engine replaced my numbers were in the low 7's and high 6's and they confirmed my engine as needing replacement.
11-08-2011 | 07:52 AM
#4
Edited post to clarify some things.
The Mazda Dealership said that my engine is still strong. I apologize for not specifying the RPM in which it was tested with.
Compression rating of 6.5 front n back @ 200 is "good" condition, because avg new factory series I (2004) engines comes out at a avg rating of 6.8 @ 200RPM.
Plus I was able to crank out a lot of power out of that engine, much better than a few of my other friends with the same year RX8.
The Mazda Dealership said that my engine is still strong. I apologize for not specifying the RPM in which it was tested with.
Compression rating of 6.5 front n back @ 200 is "good" condition, because avg new factory series I (2004) engines comes out at a avg rating of 6.8 @ 200RPM.
Plus I was able to crank out a lot of power out of that engine, much better than a few of my other friends with the same year RX8.
12-20-2011 | 06:11 PM
#10
12-20-2011 | 06:46 PM
#11
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dbarber
Series I Trouble Shooting
14
07-25-2015 01:34 PM
