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I am in the process of installing a teves mk60 abs unit into my RX8. The idea being I can continue to have my bias set by my dual master bias bar setup and also revert to the bias bar in the event of abs failure / ice mode
Really interested to see how it goes with the MK60 install.
I was thinking about doing the swap on mine, but I've gotten way far behind on getting my RX8 back on the road so I held off for now.
Depending on your results I might add it to the list when I finally decide to swap the T56 for a DCT.
There's a good thread on Miataturbo.net about the MK60 if you haven't seen it yet MiataTurbo.net MK60 Guide.
Am doing a CD009 swap soon. Have the basic kit for the DCT swap as well, but that will be a future project. Not sure I’d bother with the MK60 given how effective the non-DSC Sumitomo is in the RX8. Thanks again for your wealth of info.
I considered a Mk60 conversion when I moved the ABS unit to the passenger compartment, but ended up sticking with the Sumitomo non-DSC unit. Given that it has worked perfectly over a variety of different conditions I'm very pleased that I didn't spend the money to change to the Mk60
Just bought an RX-8 for E Production in SCCA. I'm looking to loose weight and the harness is 28 pounds. This looks promising but I'm wondering if anybody has used it.
MAZDA RX8 BRAKE BIAS SERVO REPLACEMENT PEDAL BOX KIT – HYDRAULIC DUAL AP CYLINDER [KIT B
Thanks,
Steve
we use something pretty similar to this and i am happy with it
I have the mk60 in the car and working. I haven't ran it on road course yet as it is the middle of winter, but I have drove it around the neighborhood and engaged abs, and monitored data/codes with BMW INPA and everything appears to be working as it should. I have the version that can run motorsport flash, but currently have the standard firmware and will give that a go first.
Some tips for anyone looking to install a mk60 -
The rx8 wheel speed sensors are VR and won't work if directly connected to the mk60. Well, in testing the rears sort of work but I got less noisy data at low speed converting the signal on the rears as well. I used the rx8 stock wheel speed sensors and this circuit I threw together which allows for use of the all of stock sensors. There is a converter board "VR to Hall" sold by SIRHC Labs which is basically a Maxim MAX9924 on a PCB that you can solder wires to. This board will turn the output of the RX8 wheel speed sensors to a 5v square wave. Some additional circuitry is needed to interface with the mk60 which is shown in the attached image. I also put an led which flashes as the trigger wheel teeth pass the wheel speed sensor which is very helpful in making sure things are working as they should.
I ran fairly long stainless flex lines and put the pump behind the driver seat. This additional line added some softness to the pedal. Converting the stock rubber brake lines to the steel lines in the goodridge brake line kit got the pedal back to about stock level of firmness.
I tried stainless flex line when I relocated my abs unit, and it turned the brake feel to ****. I ended up bending all new hard lines (CuNi stuff) and that fixed it.
I can’t figure out how to open/remove the protective plastic cover off the back side of the pigtail connector block where the wiring harness comes into it?
Originally Posted by Stubbs
I used the sumitomo abs on my swap. Wiring is straight forward if you have the pigtail from the donor. Match color to color and and an additional 12V power wire. Link to Service Manual
13 electrical (Pages 122-127) for the diagrams
I couldn't find anywhere to buy the connector on its own; fortunately I found one that came with the pigtail.
An option would be to buy the right terminals (I believe they are Sumitomo TS 90 and TS 187,) crimp them to some wires, plug the terminals into the socket and use an epoxy potting compound to retain them. Then use a deutsch connector or other connector of your choice to make your connection to the RX8 harness.
The Bosch DSC unit uses 6mm lines with bubble flares and m12x1.0 tube nuts; DSC equipped cars also have a master cylinder that use m12 bubble flare fittings.
The Sumitomo unit uses 4.75mm lines with inverted flares and m10x1.0 tube nuts; non-dsc equipped cars have a master cylinder that uses m10 inverted flare fittings.
Lines to the wheels are 4.75mm on both DSC and Non-DSC, but are bubble flare on the DSC and inverted flare on the Non-DSC.
The master cylinder is identical between DSC and Non-DSC besides the the size of the fittings. You can either use adapters or swap to a non-DSC master cylinder
You'll need to re-flare the lines to the wheels or use an adapter.
There is another option, although more expensive.
The Bosch DSC MK60 abs from a BMW M3 can be retrofitted.
It's similar to the DSC in the RX8 but a bit more advanced, and it does not need to have the RX8 ECU functional to work. A good choice if you have to an aftermarket ecu or swapped powertrain.
It's becoming popular for retrofitting older cars to more modern ABS/DSC as well as a substantially cheaper alternative to a motorsports ABS unit like a Bosch M4 or M5.
For the Bosch connector Remove the tape around the loom at the connector and clip the zip tie if present. With the latch in the open position, look for the 4 tabs and with a small screwdriver or pick gently pry the recess in the cover over them. The latch and cover should come off as one piece.
You can also remove the front side of the connector by prying it out with a pick or screw driver. It's easier to depin this way, but It's harder to reassemble as the seal plugs don't like to go back in easily this way. The easiest way to get it back together from this point is to depin every wire and reassemble the front of the connector and insert from the back.
To depin use this style of depinning tool. This set is from Amazon, use the 1 mm thick ones, unless you want to waste hours.
For the Sumitomo connector use a small screwdriver to pry at the 4 retaining points and the cover will lift off. Pic below is with the cover already removed
Thank you for your generosity in sharing with us Stubbs.
It was the bottom pic for the Sumitomo pigtail cover. I was obviously getting at the proper points, but it’s on the verge of damaging the cover flange that seals over them and around the entire perimeter.
You'll need m10x1 bubble female to M10x1 inverted flare male to adapt the 4.75mm lines going to the wheels.
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Not sure this particular adapter exists, or at least not finding it initially and haven’t contacted a specialty shop to inquire yet. Worst case I can likely have intermediate adapter lines made to connect between the two connections if necessary.
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I don't know if the specific adapter is commonly available. I never bothered with adapters since I was making so many other changes and cut and flared the factory steel line. Later I replaced them with cunifer lines for better routing.
An adapter would make the swap more plug and play since flaring lines can be a pain.
Quick tip: if you do reflare the lines make sure you get the right tube nuts. There is a difference between bubble flare and invert flare. See here for some detail. How to find the metric thread pitch of brake line nuts
I was able to secure the non-DSC master cylinder lines, harness pigtail, and Sumitomo ABS module from a 2005 model and will likely install a new master cylinder on it to match. I do prefer the 2005 non-DSC version with the integral bleed screw.
Let me know how much you want to build a set of short cunifer adapter lines for me. That will serve my purpose well enough.
came across the required adapter on fleabay, but am still thinking that a set of short cunifer adapter lines is going to be better than trying to bend the DSC wheel lines into the non-DSC ABS module. These adapters may help, since it will instead be M10x1.0 male/female inverted flare on both ends of the adapter lines, but am still looking into it. I was searching for the M10x1.0 female bubble fitting when these adapters came up.
edit:
so I also found an M10x1.0 inverted flare female coupler. Not sure it could really be done directly otherwise, but male inverted/female bubble adapters on the wheel brake line ends, female inverted coupler installed on each of those ends, and then short cunifer adapter lines with male inverted fittings on both ends to connect them to the Sumitomo ABS module should do it.
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It's been so long since I've looked at a stock engine bay I had forgotten the Non-DSC module is rotated 90º from the DSC module. Wouldn't be as simple as adding an adapter and connecting the unmodified DSC lines. You might be able to bend the lines to fit with the right radius bending tool and some patience.
Given that, It'd make more sense to cut the stock wheel lines in a convenient place and use inverted flare inline couplers and make new lines from that to the module.
You might save some effort if you hate dealing with bending and flaring by harvesting the front wheel lines off a non-dsc car out of a local junkyard, should be relatively easy to pull and install.
Rear wheel lines are probably not worth it as it would be a lot more work to harvest and install due to having to drop the fuel tank and possibly the rear subframe. Not much advantage to that other than being OEM fit.
Easy to say when you have the facilities and equipment; my situation is super tough right now. I need to grind a pair of T3 twin-scroll ports in a turbine housing out to T4 size and can't even get that done; no wired power or compressed air and both my generators are down. Super frustrating lately.
I'll have to look at it closer, just knew they were oriented differently. While less connections would be ideal/preferred, if they seal then it doesn't really matter. If they leak though, it could be ugly.
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11-30-2021, 08:09 PM
but still waiting patiently. 
That will serve my purpose well enough. 
