Brake use, RR first???
#1
Brake use, RR first???
I have made it a habit to check my front brake pads prior to track days with the (previously reliable) assumption that they would wear out first. I just finished my 3rd HPDE with my 8 (all stock) and the right rear pads are gone. One managed to get down to the backing plate without warning since the wear indicator is only located on the right front.
From now on, I will be looking at every brake pad, which I should have been doing anyway.
Has anyone else had a similar experience with this car?
From now on, I will be looking at every brake pad, which I should have been doing anyway.
Has anyone else had a similar experience with this car?
#3
'05 base 6mt = no TCS/DSC.
I do have electronic brakeforce distribution, so driving style may result in more rear use, but I have never heard of anyone going through rear pads faster. Mazda obviously didn't expect it . . . there are no wear indicators on the rear!
There was also quite a differential (1.5-2.0mm) left to right on the rear. When I change the fronts I'll see whether there is much of a difference.
Right now, I had to put some NAPA pads on the back just to be able to drive. Hawk HPS have been ordered and I'll cange them all in a couple weeks.
I do have electronic brakeforce distribution, so driving style may result in more rear use, but I have never heard of anyone going through rear pads faster. Mazda obviously didn't expect it . . . there are no wear indicators on the rear!
There was also quite a differential (1.5-2.0mm) left to right on the rear. When I change the fronts I'll see whether there is much of a difference.
Right now, I had to put some NAPA pads on the back just to be able to drive. Hawk HPS have been ordered and I'll cange them all in a couple weeks.
#5
^ Yep, and personally I disagree with the HP+ being a trackable pad too. I have had issues where I started getting buildup on my rotors from those pads. Just not a huge fan, Carbotech on the other hand
#7
Right now, I just need something streetable that will survive the track, on street tires. The OEMs were actually working well for me, they just didn't last very long.
I will eventually switch out to HP+ for track days and reserving the HPS for the street. My hope is that they are similar enough to not require rebedding when swapped.
Blue, did you get buildup on the track, or in daily use?
I will eventually switch out to HP+ for track days and reserving the HPS for the street. My hope is that they are similar enough to not require rebedding when swapped.
Blue, did you get buildup on the track, or in daily use?
Last edited by RX8Maine; 09-24-2007 at 10:55 AM.
#8
He got buildup on track use.
HP+'s are STREET pads that can take LIGHT tracking. Nothing more. If you are tracking do not waste your time on HPS's.
http://dpeweb.com/ProductDetails.asp...8&vehicleID=58
HP+'s are STREET pads that can take LIGHT tracking. Nothing more. If you are tracking do not waste your time on HPS's.
http://dpeweb.com/ProductDetails.asp...8&vehicleID=58
Originally Posted by DPEWEB.com
www.dpeweb.com
Hawk Performance HPS pads offer 20-40% more stopping power and higher resistance to brake fade than most original equipment or standard replacement pads. This makes them more responsive and durable than most standard original brake pads, and makes Hawk Performance HPS pads excellent way to improve braking performance without spending a lot of money. As standard brake pads wear, brake dust is released as the friction material rubs off in everyday braking. Hawk Performance HPS brake pads are formulated to run cleaner, and emit relatively low levels of dust in normal street driving. An excellent choice for aggressive street and autocross driving. Not recommended for track use.
Hawk Performance HPS pads offer 20-40% more stopping power and higher resistance to brake fade than most original equipment or standard replacement pads. This makes them more responsive and durable than most standard original brake pads, and makes Hawk Performance HPS pads excellent way to improve braking performance without spending a lot of money. As standard brake pads wear, brake dust is released as the friction material rubs off in everyday braking. Hawk Performance HPS brake pads are formulated to run cleaner, and emit relatively low levels of dust in normal street driving. An excellent choice for aggressive street and autocross driving. Not recommended for track use.
Originally Posted by DPEWEB.com
www.dpeweb.com
A high torque brake compound delivering reliable and consistent performance over a very wide operating temperature range (150F to 1250F). Advanced compound matrix provides an excellent initial "bite", high coefficient of friction (0.54-0.56), and very progressive brake modulation and release characteristics. AX6 offers high fade resistance, rotor friendliness at all temperatures, excellent cold stopping power, and non corrosive dust. As a result, AX6 is an excellent choice for novice-intermediate lapping day and high performance driver's schools on street driven cars using street tires, eliminating the need to change brake pads at the track. AX6 has gained tremendous popularity with SCCA Prosolo/Solo2 competitors for its fantastic bite and modulation. The new name, AX6, is in fact directed at the autox crowd. This pad used to be called the Panther Plus.
Though not recommended by Carbotech as a daily-driving street pad due to elevated levels of dust, noise, and rotor wear, ourselves and many customers have had success driving on this pad for months at a time on the road.
A high torque brake compound delivering reliable and consistent performance over a very wide operating temperature range (150F to 1250F). Advanced compound matrix provides an excellent initial "bite", high coefficient of friction (0.54-0.56), and very progressive brake modulation and release characteristics. AX6 offers high fade resistance, rotor friendliness at all temperatures, excellent cold stopping power, and non corrosive dust. As a result, AX6 is an excellent choice for novice-intermediate lapping day and high performance driver's schools on street driven cars using street tires, eliminating the need to change brake pads at the track. AX6 has gained tremendous popularity with SCCA Prosolo/Solo2 competitors for its fantastic bite and modulation. The new name, AX6, is in fact directed at the autox crowd. This pad used to be called the Panther Plus.
Though not recommended by Carbotech as a daily-driving street pad due to elevated levels of dust, noise, and rotor wear, ourselves and many customers have had success driving on this pad for months at a time on the road.
Last edited by mac11; 09-24-2007 at 11:51 AM.
#9
+1 on the carbotechs. As a novice, I ran XP8's at Gingerman and they were great.
#10
'05 base 6mt = no TCS/DSC.
I do have electronic brakeforce distribution, so driving style may result in more rear use, but I have never heard of anyone going through rear pads faster. Mazda obviously didn't expect it . . . there are no wear indicators on the rear!
There was also quite a differential (1.5-2.0mm) left to right on the rear. When I change the fronts I'll see whether there is much of a difference.
Right now, I had to put some NAPA pads on the back just to be able to drive. Hawk HPS have been ordered and I'll cange them all in a couple weeks.
I do have electronic brakeforce distribution, so driving style may result in more rear use, but I have never heard of anyone going through rear pads faster. Mazda obviously didn't expect it . . . there are no wear indicators on the rear!
There was also quite a differential (1.5-2.0mm) left to right on the rear. When I change the fronts I'll see whether there is much of a difference.
Right now, I had to put some NAPA pads on the back just to be able to drive. Hawk HPS have been ordered and I'll cange them all in a couple weeks.
#11
As stated above, I bought pads that will be comparable to OEM in performance at a lower price. I only have 3 HPDE's left this season (in cold weather ; last weekend of October) and am not interested in buying 2 sets now or in using "track" pads all winter.
So back to the original question, has anyone gone through rears this fast in an RX8? I have read a LOT of brake threads on this forum, and the consensus seems to be roughly two sets of fronts to every set of rears, and some people even use a more aggressive compound on the front. Should I be looking for a problem?
So back to the original question, has anyone gone through rears this fast in an RX8? I have read a LOT of brake threads on this forum, and the consensus seems to be roughly two sets of fronts to every set of rears, and some people even use a more aggressive compound on the front. Should I be looking for a problem?
#12
As stated above, I bought pads that will be comparable to OEM in performance at a lower price. I only have 3 HPDE's left this season (in cold weather ; last weekend of October) and am not interested in buying 2 sets now or in using "track" pads all winter.
So back to the original question, has anyone gone through rears this fast in an RX8? I have read a LOT of brake threads on this forum, and the consensus seems to be roughly two sets of fronts to every set of rears, and some people even use a more aggressive compound on the front. Should I be looking for a problem?
So back to the original question, has anyone gone through rears this fast in an RX8? I have read a LOT of brake threads on this forum, and the consensus seems to be roughly two sets of fronts to every set of rears, and some people even use a more aggressive compound on the front. Should I be looking for a problem?
#13
that is really odd to me, I have used HP+, and I have had very even pad wear front to rear, and side to side. I take measurements with a tread depth gauge before and after each event. my front pads wore out a little faster, and were not usable, but there is still usable pad left in my rears. but my side to side wear was almost perfectly even.
I am planning on changing over to the XP-8's for next season though, I have read so much good stuff about them, and witnessed their stopping power on a similarly equipped 8 on track, and I am impressed.
I am planning on changing over to the XP-8's for next season though, I have read so much good stuff about them, and witnessed their stopping power on a similarly equipped 8 on track, and I am impressed.
#14
Well, thanks for the info. I will definitely be keeping a closer eye on things out back. I am starting to be a little more aggressive with braking, so I should start using a true track pad, but that will have to wait until next year. Budget issues.
#15
that is really odd to me, I have used HP+, and I have had very even pad wear front to rear, and side to side. I take measurements with a tread depth gauge before and after each event. my front pads wore out a little faster, and were not usable, but there is still usable pad left in my rears. but my side to side wear was almost perfectly even.
I am planning on changing over to the XP-8's for next season though, I have read so much good stuff about them, and witnessed their stopping power on a similarly equipped 8 on track, and I am impressed.
I am planning on changing over to the XP-8's for next season though, I have read so much good stuff about them, and witnessed their stopping power on a similarly equipped 8 on track, and I am impressed.
#16
He got buildup on track use.
HP+'s are STREET pads that can take LIGHT tracking. Nothing more. If you are tracking do not waste your time on HPS's.
http://dpeweb.com/ProductDetails.asp...8&vehicleID=58
HP+'s are STREET pads that can take LIGHT tracking. Nothing more. If you are tracking do not waste your time on HPS's.
http://dpeweb.com/ProductDetails.asp...8&vehicleID=58
I've had issues with HP Plus not being up to par on other cars (Stage II WRX) while tracking. Yet, on the RX-8, the HP Plus has been extremely up to the task thus far, from my experience over the course of 6 track days.
#19
Well dammit, you guys are costing me money with all this talk!
I just sucked it up, pulled out the credit card, and bought a set of HP+ for front and rear. I'll put them on 1 week or so before the event and bed them in, and then change over to the HPS when my winter tires go on.
I also pulled the right rear rotor and will need to replace it. It didn't look too bad in the wheel well (its the inner face that had the pad worn to the backing plate, so the light was poor) but once I saw it in sunlight, my mind was made up. It has 2mm of thickness left above minimum, so I will probably get it machined and hold onto it as a backup.
I have done 3 days at NHIS in this car. Both of the turns that I use trail-braking in (turn 1 in the south chicane, and turn 6 aka the bowl) are left-handers. If the EBD is doing what it should, that explains why my right side has more wear. All of my other braking zones are in a straight line.
I will gauge all of my rotors before and after the track event. Everyone complains about the HP+ eating rotors, but I don't see any hard numbers anywhere.
I just sucked it up, pulled out the credit card, and bought a set of HP+ for front and rear. I'll put them on 1 week or so before the event and bed them in, and then change over to the HPS when my winter tires go on.
I also pulled the right rear rotor and will need to replace it. It didn't look too bad in the wheel well (its the inner face that had the pad worn to the backing plate, so the light was poor) but once I saw it in sunlight, my mind was made up. It has 2mm of thickness left above minimum, so I will probably get it machined and hold onto it as a backup.
I have done 3 days at NHIS in this car. Both of the turns that I use trail-braking in (turn 1 in the south chicane, and turn 6 aka the bowl) are left-handers. If the EBD is doing what it should, that explains why my right side has more wear. All of my other braking zones are in a straight line.
I will gauge all of my rotors before and after the track event. Everyone complains about the HP+ eating rotors, but I don't see any hard numbers anywhere.
#21
Well dammit, you guys are costing me money with all this talk!
I just sucked it up, pulled out the credit card, and bought a set of HP+ for front and rear. I'll put them on 1 week or so before the event and bed them in, and then change over to the HPS when my winter tires go on.
I also pulled the right rear rotor and will need to replace it. It didn't look too bad in the wheel well (its the inner face that had the pad worn to the backing plate, so the light was poor) but once I saw it in sunlight, my mind was made up. It has 2mm of thickness left above minimum, so I will probably get it machined and hold onto it as a backup.
I have done 3 days at NHIS in this car. Both of the turns that I use trail-braking in (turn 1 in the south chicane, and turn 6 aka the bowl) are left-handers. If the EBD is doing what it should, that explains why my right side has more wear. All of my other braking zones are in a straight line.
I will gauge all of my rotors before and after the track event. Everyone complains about the HP+ eating rotors, but I don't see any hard numbers anywhere.
I just sucked it up, pulled out the credit card, and bought a set of HP+ for front and rear. I'll put them on 1 week or so before the event and bed them in, and then change over to the HPS when my winter tires go on.
I also pulled the right rear rotor and will need to replace it. It didn't look too bad in the wheel well (its the inner face that had the pad worn to the backing plate, so the light was poor) but once I saw it in sunlight, my mind was made up. It has 2mm of thickness left above minimum, so I will probably get it machined and hold onto it as a backup.
I have done 3 days at NHIS in this car. Both of the turns that I use trail-braking in (turn 1 in the south chicane, and turn 6 aka the bowl) are left-handers. If the EBD is doing what it should, that explains why my right side has more wear. All of my other braking zones are in a straight line.
I will gauge all of my rotors before and after the track event. Everyone complains about the HP+ eating rotors, but I don't see any hard numbers anywhere.
#22
what rotors were you using, and did that happen with more than one set of pads, and does it not happen with the XP-8's.
#23
From my experience, the HP Plus run fine at the track, then during the following couple weeks of street driving after a track day, there will be some compound deposit on the rotor (along with more noise), which then goes away after a couple weeks of street driving again (then they become quiet again) and the rotors clean up again.
#25
The very reason why I use the pads is to avoid having to swap out pads before/after track days.. They last about 3-4 track days and 6 months of street driving from the wear rate I've been experiencing. If I were swapping out pads before and after track days, I'd be using a race specific compound for track days.
Cheers.