changes needed for RX8
#51
I'm ruinning -1.3f, -1.5r, zero toe all around.
#52
There's so many threads on alignment, just let's say here one should be done (along w/corner balance if possible) if you are serious about setting up the car as best as possible. Each car is different, esp w/lowering/car & driver weight/car use and then there's personal preference for handling attitude.
#54
Stock setting has a little toe in, both in front and the rear. I ran the stock set-up for two track weekends and it was great. Once I upgraded the suspension and tires I went with a more aggressive set-up.
#55
Well, I have to admit, going faster does seem more fun to me.
In all honesty, decent street tires that I will want to drive on all summer (Pilot Sports, Eagle F1's) are more expensive and die faster on the track that even the cheapest R-comp tires. I could easily get 4 summers out of a single set of tires if NOT used on the track, and a 17" wheel makes the track tires even cheaper. This will pay for itself over time. (Not to mention the issue of having track pad dust all over my daily driver wheels.)
In all honesty, decent street tires that I will want to drive on all summer (Pilot Sports, Eagle F1's) are more expensive and die faster on the track that even the cheapest R-comp tires. I could easily get 4 summers out of a single set of tires if NOT used on the track, and a 17" wheel makes the track tires even cheaper. This will pay for itself over time. (Not to mention the issue of having track pad dust all over my daily driver wheels.)
#56
We track a lot--one members car has over 5K track miles on it.
Since you are experienced and probably push it a little here is what i recommend
1- brakes pads--correct--pad of choice here, dont forget the fluid--thats a given for a old pro anyway.
2- shocks---the tail gets a little squirrelly on high speed hard braking
3- the rotory engine with its 270 degree flame front likes to run hot. Get real gauges, the ones on the car are dummies.
4- change your coolant to a 70% water and 30 % coolant.
5- do not run a 5W/20- on track--- most of us run a 10W 30 or a 10W40---make sure the oil is warm before you rev her good(tight bearing clearances)
6- all of us pre mix--some all the time some for the track only 1/2 oz synthetic pre mix per gallon.
7- new plugs usually makes a nice difference for the track---plugs go bad for peak performance in as little as 15K miles.
8--get a GOOD alignment--the factory one sucks.
Track her! Then-------
now wipe that silly assed smile off your face!!
olddragger
Since you are experienced and probably push it a little here is what i recommend
1- brakes pads--correct--pad of choice here, dont forget the fluid--thats a given for a old pro anyway.
2- shocks---the tail gets a little squirrelly on high speed hard braking
3- the rotory engine with its 270 degree flame front likes to run hot. Get real gauges, the ones on the car are dummies.
4- change your coolant to a 70% water and 30 % coolant.
5- do not run a 5W/20- on track--- most of us run a 10W 30 or a 10W40---make sure the oil is warm before you rev her good(tight bearing clearances)
6- all of us pre mix--some all the time some for the track only 1/2 oz synthetic pre mix per gallon.
7- new plugs usually makes a nice difference for the track---plugs go bad for peak performance in as little as 15K miles.
8--get a GOOD alignment--the factory one sucks.
Track her! Then-------
now wipe that silly assed smile off your face!!
olddragger
I've had my RX-8 for about 3 weeks now, and have owned a E36 M3 that I tracked several times. First of all, I love the RX-8. 2nd, it's a fantastic car out of the box. The tires wear suprisingly well, don't feel nearly as squishy as you'd think a high performance all-season would, and have a decent amount of grip. 3. I feel like I'm letting this car down. I've never driven a car that handles so well, and feels like it has a reserve of grip.
My initial impressions of my BONE stock RX-8 is that it does get squirrely under braking. I'm wondering if an alignment will take care of that. Also, maybe I'm used to understeer, but when I turn in sharply the whole rear end rotates (oversteers) more than I'm used to. I don't think I like tail happiness of the car, and want the rear end to stay a bit more planted and not rotate as much.
I hate to modify this car at all, but other than an alignment and MAYBE koni's, is there anything I can do to take care of the braking and oversteer issues?
Maybe I should just get that alignment and see what goes on from there.
#57
I don't think I can help you since I found the car to understeer stock, and changed the alignment to reduce understeer. I went to -1 camber +7 caster 0 toe up front and -1.5 camber with zero toe out back. The car is very neutral on street tires.
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