"Drilling" factory sway bar.
#1
"Drilling" factory sway bar.
I recall reading a few posts concerning the possibility of redrilling the factory sway bar for slightly stiffer settings. I would like to try this to experiment with stiffer sways as opposed to buying a new set up and perhaps not liking the end result.
Can anybody provide some insight on the outcome and process?
Can anybody provide some insight on the outcome and process?
#2
Trust Me, I'm an Engineer
iTrader: (3)
I haven't done this myself, but all you are doing is reducing the moment arm (lever length) of the bar. The change in stiffness will be the ratio of the original lever length divided by the new length.
I even remember seeing a post by Team RX8 where the tip of the bar was put in a press to increase the flat area in order to reduce the lever length even more.
I even remember seeing a post by Team RX8 where the tip of the bar was put in a press to increase the flat area in order to reduce the lever length even more.
#4
I've done it to the rear and might do it to the front for some more flexibility. I never bothered to calculate the effect (you can't just look at the bar stiffness % change, need to include springs, motion ratios, and roll center) but it was one thing I did to turn a very pushy car to slightly loose.
Very easy and worthwhile mod. Be careful with the chassis-side studs. All of mine snapped so I replaced them with bolts/nuts.
Very easy and worthwhile mod. Be careful with the chassis-side studs. All of mine snapped so I replaced them with bolts/nuts.
Last edited by cwatson; 08-30-2012 at 12:45 PM.
#5
Trust Me, I'm an Engineer
iTrader: (3)
I stated that the change in stiffness for the bar is related to the lever arm lenth change, which is accurate (assuming same size bar OD/ID). I wasn't talking about oversteer/understeer ratio with takes into account the front and rear roll stiffness (which is a combined stiffness of anti-sway bars, springs, and chassis rigidity). The percent change in stiffness that I am talking about is just for the bar. Changing the hole location for the factory bar will only have about a 15%-20% change in bar stiffness. Not saying that it isn't noticeable, but it is a very small change in comparison to almost all aftermarket bars. For example, the Racing Beat anti-sways have a 117% increase in stiffness for the front and a 166% increase in stiffness for the rear.
#6
#225 of 1000
iTrader: (7)
I stated that the change in stiffness for the bar is related to the lever arm lenth change, which is accurate (assuming same size bar OD/ID). I wasn't talking about oversteer/understeer ratio with takes into account the front and rear roll stiffness (which is a combined stiffness of anti-sway bars, springs, and chassis rigidity). The percent change in stiffness that I am talking about is just for the bar. Changing the hole location for the factory bar will only have about a 15%-20% change in bar stiffness. Not saying that it isn't noticeable, but it is a very small change in comparison to almost all aftermarket bars. For example, the Racing Beat anti-sways have a 117% increase in stiffness for the front and a 166% increase in stiffness for the rear.
i dont know, that was what he said, just providing some input here.
#7
Trust Me, I'm an Engineer
iTrader: (3)
If you like the way the car currently drives/handles (regarding oversteer/understeer ratio), then keep the front to rear roll stiffness ratio the same. If you want more understeer then increase front roll stiffness or decrease rear stiffness. Opposite if you want to increase oversteer.
Just remember that too much roll stiffness compared to vertical spring stiffness will cause you to lift a wheel in a hard corner. 4 tires will always get better traction than 3. Increasing roll stiffness (via anti-sway bars), without increasing spring stiffness, should be considered carefully.
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hufflepuff (01-23-2021)
#8
TNC
iTrader: (1)
^Exactly. Omar is just a crazy driver ![Lol](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/lol.gif)
With my setup (Stance coilovers, Progress Tech sways, and same rim and tire size all the way around), car is planted and actually understeers a bit which is most likely due to my rear sway on full soft rather than full stiff.
So it depends on your setup and you're driving style.
![Lol](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/lol.gif)
With my setup (Stance coilovers, Progress Tech sways, and same rim and tire size all the way around), car is planted and actually understeers a bit which is most likely due to my rear sway on full soft rather than full stiff.
So it depends on your setup and you're driving style.
#10
I haven't done this myself, but all you are doing is reducing the moment arm (lever length) of the bar. The change in stiffness will be the ratio of the original lever length divided by the new length.
I even remember seeing a post by Team RX8 where the tip of the bar was put in a press to increase the flat area in order to reduce the lever length even more.
I even remember seeing a post by Team RX8 where the tip of the bar was put in a press to increase the flat area in order to reduce the lever length even more.
I stated that the change in stiffness for the bar is related to the lever arm lenth change, which is accurate (assuming same size bar OD/ID). I wasn't talking about oversteer/understeer ratio with takes into account the front and rear roll stiffness (which is a combined stiffness of anti-sway bars, springs, and chassis rigidity). The percent change in stiffness that I am talking about is just for the bar. Changing the hole location for the factory bar will only have about a 15%-20% change in bar stiffness. Not saying that it isn't noticeable, but it is a very small change in comparison to almost all aftermarket bars. For example, the Racing Beat anti-sways have a 117% increase in stiffness for the front and a 166% increase in stiffness for the rear.
![Rofl](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/rofl.gif)
Thanks for the provided link. I should have searched harder.
Last edited by SayNoToPistons; 08-31-2012 at 12:34 AM.
#11
I stated that the change in stiffness for the bar is related to the lever arm lenth change, which is accurate (assuming same size bar OD/ID). I wasn't talking about oversteer/understeer ratio with takes into account the front and rear roll stiffness (which is a combined stiffness of anti-sway bars, springs, and chassis rigidity). The percent change in stiffness that I am talking about is just for the bar. Changing the hole location for the factory bar will only have about a 15%-20% change in bar stiffness. Not saying that it isn't noticeable, but it is a very small change in comparison to almost all aftermarket bars. For example, the Racing Beat anti-sways have a 117% increase in stiffness for the front and a 166% increase in stiffness for the rear.
#14
Registered
iTrader: (25)
I can provide a custom modified one if you're interested. I flattened the tubular end some more in a brake press and then installed two sets of stiffer end link position holes with a drill press. Most people do it redneck style with a hand drill and that looks close enough eye ball approach ...
#15
I can provide a custom modified one if you're interested. I flattened the tubular end some more in a brake press and then installed two sets of stiffer end link position holes with a drill press. Most people do it redneck style with a hand drill and that looks close enough eye ball approach ...
#16
I can provide a custom modified one if you're interested. I flattened the tubular end some more in a brake press and then installed two sets of stiffer end link position holes with a drill press. Most people do it redneck style with a hand drill and that looks close enough eye ball approach ...
#22
I can provide a custom modified one if you're interested. I flattened the tubular end some more in a brake press and then installed two sets of stiffer end link position holes with a drill press. Most people do it redneck style with a hand drill and that looks close enough eye ball approach ...
#23
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hufflepuff (11-07-2018)
The following users liked this post:
hufflepuff (11-07-2018)
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