First time dragging 8 results
#1
First time dragging 8 results
ok welp today was the first time i've drag raced the 8
Air temp average 45-51 degress
upgrades : nitto 555 extreme zr's, simota carbon fiber intake
tire pressure : 40psi *i wanted it to be just like on highway*
run 1:
R/T: .151
60': 2.339
1/8: 9.837
1/4: 15.079
MPH: 92.45
Wheel hopped a lil and then stayed in 3rd till rev limiter never shifted into 4th
Run 2
R/T: .114
60': 2.353
1/8: 10.020
1/4: 15.371
MPH: 91.25
spun on launch, than tried shifting into 4th but obviously that didn't work
Run 3
R/T: .101
60': 2.371
1/8: 9.807
1/4: 15.050
MPH: 91.22
Just a lil bit of hop but felt great and i hit rev limiter in 3rd again guess thats the way to go
run 4
R/T: .432 i was sleeping
60': 2.519
1/8: 10.204
1/4: 15.519
MPH: 92.86
well i wheel hopped like crazy than the ABS light and brake light came on so i kinda freaked and i shifted into 4th so that run was a waste
also i'm a fat guy crushing the scales at 330lbs so i'm sure that hurt
what do you think about times good, bad average what? gimme some info, tips, tricks, etc
Air temp average 45-51 degress
upgrades : nitto 555 extreme zr's, simota carbon fiber intake
tire pressure : 40psi *i wanted it to be just like on highway*
run 1:
R/T: .151
60': 2.339
1/8: 9.837
1/4: 15.079
MPH: 92.45
Wheel hopped a lil and then stayed in 3rd till rev limiter never shifted into 4th
Run 2
R/T: .114
60': 2.353
1/8: 10.020
1/4: 15.371
MPH: 91.25
spun on launch, than tried shifting into 4th but obviously that didn't work
Run 3
R/T: .101
60': 2.371
1/8: 9.807
1/4: 15.050
MPH: 91.22
Just a lil bit of hop but felt great and i hit rev limiter in 3rd again guess thats the way to go
run 4
R/T: .432 i was sleeping
60': 2.519
1/8: 10.204
1/4: 15.519
MPH: 92.86
well i wheel hopped like crazy than the ABS light and brake light came on so i kinda freaked and i shifted into 4th so that run was a waste
also i'm a fat guy crushing the scales at 330lbs so i'm sure that hurt
what do you think about times good, bad average what? gimme some info, tips, tricks, etc
#8
#9
Originally Posted by ATL-6s
#10
i don;t have dsc or traction control what are good times in this car, plus i had plenty of grip i wheel hopped not spun plus i'm not a drag racer cornering is my passion hence choosing this over SRT. i thought like 14.5 + was average in this car
#14
Originally Posted by Moonrover333
i don;t have dsc or traction control what are good times in this car, plus i had plenty of grip i wheel hopped not spun plus i'm not a drag racer cornering is my passion hence choosing this over SRT. i thought like 14.5 + was average in this car
#17
15.0 is good for your first time! That's my best when my car was stock.
I'm now at 13.1sec with the help of a small Greddy turbo/ interceptor/ drag radials/ some weight reduction.... blah, blah, blah.
I'm now at 13.1sec with the help of a small Greddy turbo/ interceptor/ drag radials/ some weight reduction.... blah, blah, blah.
#19
I am by no means a drag racing expert but here's a few helpful tips for your next time:
1. First of all, your 60' time is very important. This is were you make or break your ET. The better you can get off the line, the better you ET will be period. If you bone your launch, the run is basically over if you are shooting for a good time. On street tires, a 2.0 60' is a good goal to shoot for.
2. Tire pressure. 40 psi is WAY too high for the rear (fine for the front though..think rolling resistance). Most people with full drag slicks run about 15-16 psi and with drag radials run about 20-25 psi. With your street tires, I'd try about 28-30psi.
3. Burn-out. Don't bother trying to get a good one. It's not needed with street tires. Make sure to drive around the water and then back up to give yourself just a bit of room before the lights. Then rev the car up a bit and just get a good spin to clean them off.
4. Constant RPM Launch. Once stagged, bring your car up to a pre-designated RPM and hold it there till the lights drop. At the same time start to pull up out the clutch petal till just before the engagement point. Once the lights drop, just release the clutch the rest of the way and put the gas to the floor. If you get wheel spin, then the next time drop the RPM by 500 and try it again. If you bog, go up 500 RPM on your next run. Keep trying this till you find that "sweet" spot RPM-wise where you get a good hook, probably with a tiny bit of wheel spin, and come out as best as you can. You judge this by your 60' times.
5. Shifting to 4th. This really depends on the power band of the car. If you are bumping up against the rev limiter in 3rd for more than 1-2 seconds, then you want to shift. Look at the power band (dyno sheets are the best guide) and you may see that if you short shift 4th a bit earlier it will put you into a better powerband range as you finish the run. Again, once you figure out the launch, this may solve itself as the beginning of the run will effect the end.
Hope this helps.
1. First of all, your 60' time is very important. This is were you make or break your ET. The better you can get off the line, the better you ET will be period. If you bone your launch, the run is basically over if you are shooting for a good time. On street tires, a 2.0 60' is a good goal to shoot for.
2. Tire pressure. 40 psi is WAY too high for the rear (fine for the front though..think rolling resistance). Most people with full drag slicks run about 15-16 psi and with drag radials run about 20-25 psi. With your street tires, I'd try about 28-30psi.
3. Burn-out. Don't bother trying to get a good one. It's not needed with street tires. Make sure to drive around the water and then back up to give yourself just a bit of room before the lights. Then rev the car up a bit and just get a good spin to clean them off.
4. Constant RPM Launch. Once stagged, bring your car up to a pre-designated RPM and hold it there till the lights drop. At the same time start to pull up out the clutch petal till just before the engagement point. Once the lights drop, just release the clutch the rest of the way and put the gas to the floor. If you get wheel spin, then the next time drop the RPM by 500 and try it again. If you bog, go up 500 RPM on your next run. Keep trying this till you find that "sweet" spot RPM-wise where you get a good hook, probably with a tiny bit of wheel spin, and come out as best as you can. You judge this by your 60' times.
5. Shifting to 4th. This really depends on the power band of the car. If you are bumping up against the rev limiter in 3rd for more than 1-2 seconds, then you want to shift. Look at the power band (dyno sheets are the best guide) and you may see that if you short shift 4th a bit earlier it will put you into a better powerband range as you finish the run. Again, once you figure out the launch, this may solve itself as the beginning of the run will effect the end.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by McCalll; 03-16-2006 at 11:25 AM. Reason: spelling
#20
Originally Posted by McCalll
I am by no means a drag racing expert but here's a few helpful tips for your next time:
1. First of all, your 60' time is very important. This is were you make or break your ET. The better you can get off the line, the better you ET will be period. If you bone your launch, the run is basically over if you are shooting for a good time. On street tires, a 2.0 60' is a good goal to shoot for.
2. Tire pressure. 40 psi is WAY too high for the rear (fine for the front though..think rolling resistance). Most people with full drag slicks run about 15-16 psi and with drag radials run about 20-25 psi. With your street tires, I'd try about 28-30psi.
3. Burn-out. Don't bother trying to get a good one. It's not needed with street tires. Make sure to drive around the water and then back up to give yourself just a bit of room before the lights. Then rev the car up a bit and just get a good spin to clean them off.
4. Constant RPM Launch. Once stagged, bring your car up to a pre-designated RPM and hold it there till the lights drop. At the same time start to pull up out the clutch petal till just before the engagement point. Once the lights drop, just release the clutch the rest of the way and put the gas to the floor. If you get wheel spin, then the next time drop the RPM by 500 and try it again. If you bog, go up 500 RPM on your next run. Keep trying this till you find that "sweet" spot RPM-wise where you get a good hook, probably with a tiny bit of wheel spin, and come out as best as you can. You judge this by your 60' times.
5. Shifting to 4th. This really depends on the power band of the car. If you are bumping up against the rev limiter in 3rd for more than 1-2 seconds, then you want to shift. Look at the power band (dyno sheets are the best guide) and you may see that if you short shift 4th a bit earlier it will put you into a better powerband range as you finish the run. Again, once you figure out the launch, this may solve itself as the beginning of the run will effect the end.
Hope this helps.
1. First of all, your 60' time is very important. This is were you make or break your ET. The better you can get off the line, the better you ET will be period. If you bone your launch, the run is basically over if you are shooting for a good time. On street tires, a 2.0 60' is a good goal to shoot for.
2. Tire pressure. 40 psi is WAY too high for the rear (fine for the front though..think rolling resistance). Most people with full drag slicks run about 15-16 psi and with drag radials run about 20-25 psi. With your street tires, I'd try about 28-30psi.
3. Burn-out. Don't bother trying to get a good one. It's not needed with street tires. Make sure to drive around the water and then back up to give yourself just a bit of room before the lights. Then rev the car up a bit and just get a good spin to clean them off.
4. Constant RPM Launch. Once stagged, bring your car up to a pre-designated RPM and hold it there till the lights drop. At the same time start to pull up out the clutch petal till just before the engagement point. Once the lights drop, just release the clutch the rest of the way and put the gas to the floor. If you get wheel spin, then the next time drop the RPM by 500 and try it again. If you bog, go up 500 RPM on your next run. Keep trying this till you find that "sweet" spot RPM-wise where you get a good hook, probably with a tiny bit of wheel spin, and come out as best as you can. You judge this by your 60' times.
5. Shifting to 4th. This really depends on the power band of the car. If you are bumping up against the rev limiter in 3rd for more than 1-2 seconds, then you want to shift. Look at the power band (dyno sheets are the best guide) and you may see that if you short shift 4th a bit earlier it will put you into a better powerband range as you finish the run. Again, once you figure out the launch, this may solve itself as the beginning of the run will effect the end.
Hope this helps.
#22
Originally Posted by RX-Hawk
who says they do?
TeamRX8 was just pointing out that Moonrover's .1xx reaction times are funky since they don't seem to be using the .500 system.
#24
Originally Posted by Ike
In regards to 1 and 4, it's a little different with the RX-8 and many high rev cars. It's really best to get a decent amount of wheelspin in the RX-8. Most of the faster runs I've seen for the RX-8 have had slower 60' times, losing a tenth in the 60' from a little extra wheelspin seems to gain you a couple tenths for the rest of the run.
#25
Originally Posted by McCalll
While I see your point, I just have to disagree. When it comes to mph, yes wheel spin will sometimes yield a higher number. ET, though, is all about the launch period. Improvements on the time it takes for the car to travel the first 60 feet down the track have significant implications on the final ET. As a general rule, improvements in the 60 foot time, are magnified by 2x on your final ET so giving up a 10th in the beginning is not a good idea. I did say that a good launch will yield just a hair of wheel hazing right at the beginning and that is what you want to feel when you find that perfect launching RPM.