gathering info for first track day
04-12-2010, 02:10 PM
#1
gathering info for first track day
Trying to gather info well in advance of my first track day ever with this car.
I am already planning to get an oil change before hand and have my other fluids checked. I am probably going to do a brake fluid change/bleed, check the pad, maybe get new one just in case. thinking of picking up some Hawk HP+ (I do autoX also)
I don't pre-mix but I think I will for this, I need a recommendation of something I can get at autozone/AAP. I do use the factory 5w20 oil in the car. Would you suggest something heavier for this? 5w30? or will 5w20 with premix be ok? I understand its really the oil getting thinner as the car really heats up.
I've recently seafoamed so thats ok.
Trying to figure out if there is anything I missed? Anything thing else I should keep in mind and check before hand?
Do you guys put more or less air in the tires?
all car upgrades are listed in my sig if it helps any.
I am already planning to get an oil change before hand and have my other fluids checked. I am probably going to do a brake fluid change/bleed, check the pad, maybe get new one just in case. thinking of picking up some Hawk HP+ (I do autoX also)
I don't pre-mix but I think I will for this, I need a recommendation of something I can get at autozone/AAP. I do use the factory 5w20 oil in the car. Would you suggest something heavier for this? 5w30? or will 5w20 with premix be ok? I understand its really the oil getting thinner as the car really heats up.
I've recently seafoamed so thats ok.
Trying to figure out if there is anything I missed? Anything thing else I should keep in mind and check before hand?
Do you guys put more or less air in the tires?
all car upgrades are listed in my sig if it helps any.
04-13-2010, 11:09 PM
#2
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Fluid check is always a good idea. Oil change may not be necessary but if you're close to a change interval you might as well just do it. I'd switch to 5w30 if i were you. Some people will go heavier but i run 5w30 all the time street and track (i might bump it up to 10w40 when it gets hot this summer though). I can't really comment on the pre-mix but i'm sure it wouldn't hurt.
PS -- oil viscosity actually gets thicker not thinner when at operating temp. A 5W30 oil is thin at cold start temps to get immediate flow (5W) and then thickens up at operating temp to create a stronger film (30). Unless you have some sort of mechanical failure you shouldn't exceed the temps where the oil is at its operating temp (30 viscosity @ max 210 degrees) at a normal track day. FYI.
Bleeding the brakes etc is never a bad idea but you might want to swap in some ATE super blue. I doubt you'll boil brake fluid on you first track day but its something to think about for future track days -- the last thing you want is brake fade as you're trying to brake deeper and deeper as you get better and more familiar with the course. As long as your pads have some decent meat left on them they'll be fine.
Just make sure your car is in good mechanical shape and your fluids are topped up and go have fun! You'll be back for more
PS -- oil viscosity actually gets thicker not thinner when at operating temp. A 5W30 oil is thin at cold start temps to get immediate flow (5W) and then thickens up at operating temp to create a stronger film (30). Unless you have some sort of mechanical failure you shouldn't exceed the temps where the oil is at its operating temp (30 viscosity @ max 210 degrees) at a normal track day. FYI.
Bleeding the brakes etc is never a bad idea but you might want to swap in some ATE super blue. I doubt you'll boil brake fluid on you first track day but its something to think about for future track days -- the last thing you want is brake fade as you're trying to brake deeper and deeper as you get better and more familiar with the course. As long as your pads have some decent meat left on them they'll be fine.
Just make sure your car is in good mechanical shape and your fluids are topped up and go have fun! You'll be back for more
04-14-2010, 01:30 AM
#3
I promise you a 5w30 oil is NOT thinner when its cold; it allows a thick straight SAE30 to be thinner for cold starting while minimizing the thinning out when it heats up to operating temp.
Last edited by REDRX3RX8; 04-14-2010 at 01:36 AM. Reason: wording
04-14-2010, 01:25 PM
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Oil+oil filter change.
Check brake pads, lines, disc's and fluid change if needed
Check tires change if needed
Check air filter and clean, clean the screen IAT and MAF in the same time.
Check your cat.
Check your suspension so all is good.
Check your wheel alignment.
Prepare to race, good luck =)
Check brake pads, lines, disc's and fluid change if needed
Check tires change if needed
Check air filter and clean, clean the screen IAT and MAF in the same time.
Check your cat.
Check your suspension so all is good.
Check your wheel alignment.
Prepare to race, good luck =)
04-14-2010, 01:47 PM
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i dont like ate super blue, it dyes everything, i've had it for a little less than a year in the car and just flushed my system with motul rbf600, the liquid came out blue for 2 bottles of motul. Not worth it IMO, just get the motul it performs better for just a slightly higher price.
also i change my transmission and differential oil every year, if your starting to track your car its essential to change out your oils for these 2 more often, since its more stress on the moving parts.
I'm using 10w40 oil and premix
wheel alignment is a good idea, especially if your lowered
for brake pads, i know alot of people run hp+ on this board but i feel like its kind of a inbetween track/street pad and you really dont get the full benefits of either and you get more of the downsides, i feel its better to switch out pads before track day for something a little more aggressive, and stick with oem pads for street driving. It takes a little more work but if you get used to it, changing out pads only takes about 20 minutes or so. And you get better mileage out of your stock pads and race pads, and potentially less dust. Look into carbotech pads
also rememeber to warm up and fully cool down on the track, ie take it easy the last lap, i do this with the heater turned on full for the last lap and pretty much stay near cruising speeds
and also rememeber to have fun =P
also i change my transmission and differential oil every year, if your starting to track your car its essential to change out your oils for these 2 more often, since its more stress on the moving parts.
I'm using 10w40 oil and premix
wheel alignment is a good idea, especially if your lowered
for brake pads, i know alot of people run hp+ on this board but i feel like its kind of a inbetween track/street pad and you really dont get the full benefits of either and you get more of the downsides, i feel its better to switch out pads before track day for something a little more aggressive, and stick with oem pads for street driving. It takes a little more work but if you get used to it, changing out pads only takes about 20 minutes or so. And you get better mileage out of your stock pads and race pads, and potentially less dust. Look into carbotech pads
also rememeber to warm up and fully cool down on the track, ie take it easy the last lap, i do this with the heater turned on full for the last lap and pretty much stay near cruising speeds
and also rememeber to have fun =P
04-14-2010, 11:31 PM
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You might want to clean your K&N air filter too. If you've been driving you car around throughout the winter i'm sure it's not very clean.
I also change my diff and tranny oil once a year at the start of the season. Red line MT-90 in the tranny 75w90 in the diff. Very good stuff.
I lube my PT sways as well (if they need it)
PS --
Compliments of Google...
Multi-weight oils (such as 10W-30) are a new invention made possible by adding polymers to oil. The polymers allow the oil to have different weights at different temperatures. The first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at a cold temperature, while the second number indicates the viscosity at operating temperature.
--"How Stuff Works"
Viscosity is a measure of the resistance of a fluid which is being deformed by either shear stress or tensile stress. In everyday terms (and for fluids only), viscosity is "thickness". Thus, water is "thin", having a lower viscosity, while honey is "thick", having a higher viscosity.
--"Wikipedia"
"I promise you a 5w30 oil is NOT thinner when its cold"
Relative to it's operating temperature yes it is. As we learned ^^^ the "5" of 5w30 is the viscosity of the oil at cold temperatures and the "30" of 5w30 is the viscosity of the oil at operating temperatures and 30 viscosity is thicker than a 5 viscosity oil...
"it allows a thick straight SAE30 to be thinner for cold starting while minimizing the thinning out when it heats up to operating temp."
First off, remember those polymers we just learned about? 5w30 is not a "30 weight oil that is allowed to be thin for cold starts" It's actually a 5 weight oil that will not thin more than a 30 weight oil would. you're right about one thing... multi-grade oils are for "minimizing the thinning" but they thicken to a 30 weight oil and then do not thin more than a straight 30 weight oil would thin.
Let's not go making any promises you can't keep Red
I also change my diff and tranny oil once a year at the start of the season. Red line MT-90 in the tranny 75w90 in the diff. Very good stuff.
I lube my PT sways as well (if they need it)
PS --
Compliments of Google...
Multi-weight oils (such as 10W-30) are a new invention made possible by adding polymers to oil. The polymers allow the oil to have different weights at different temperatures. The first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at a cold temperature, while the second number indicates the viscosity at operating temperature.
--"How Stuff Works"
Viscosity is a measure of the resistance of a fluid which is being deformed by either shear stress or tensile stress. In everyday terms (and for fluids only), viscosity is "thickness". Thus, water is "thin", having a lower viscosity, while honey is "thick", having a higher viscosity.
--"Wikipedia"
"I promise you a 5w30 oil is NOT thinner when its cold"
Relative to it's operating temperature yes it is. As we learned ^^^ the "5" of 5w30 is the viscosity of the oil at cold temperatures and the "30" of 5w30 is the viscosity of the oil at operating temperatures and 30 viscosity is thicker than a 5 viscosity oil...
"it allows a thick straight SAE30 to be thinner for cold starting while minimizing the thinning out when it heats up to operating temp."
First off, remember those polymers we just learned about? 5w30 is not a "30 weight oil that is allowed to be thin for cold starts" It's actually a 5 weight oil that will not thin more than a 30 weight oil would. you're right about one thing... multi-grade oils are for "minimizing the thinning" but they thicken to a 30 weight oil and then do not thin more than a straight 30 weight oil would thin.
Let's not go making any promises you can't keep Red
04-15-2010, 10:01 AM
#9
Yeah, I had to dumb down my explaination because you are still saying a 5w30 will thicken to a 30. A 5w30 WILL ALWAYS BE THICKER @ 0 DEGREE CENTIGRADE THAN 100 DEGREE CENTIGRADE. Yes, they take a 5w grade oil, add vi improvers like STP, and get an oil that won't thin out to less than a SAE30.
Mobil 1 5w30 specs
CENTISTOKES @ 40 DEGREE CENTIGRADE 64.8
CENTISTOKES @ 100 DEGREE CENTIGRADE 11.3
That means at 40 degrees centigrade the oil runs through the test orofice 5.73 times SLOWER than 100 degree centigrade which means its always THINNER for any HIGHER temperature.
Mobil 1 5w30 specs
CENTISTOKES @ 40 DEGREE CENTIGRADE 64.8
CENTISTOKES @ 100 DEGREE CENTIGRADE 11.3
That means at 40 degrees centigrade the oil runs through the test orofice 5.73 times SLOWER than 100 degree centigrade which means its always THINNER for any HIGHER temperature.
04-15-2010, 10:32 AM
#10
Those explainations of multi-grade oil would confuse a scientist. They are confusing the manufactoring of the oil with the characteristics of the oil. They should just say: "A 5w30 oil is manufactored by adding vi improvers to a 5w oil to give the characteristics of a straight SAE30 oil. At operating temp the 5w30 oil acts like a SAE 30, but when it cools down overnight FOR COLD STARTUP it will be thinner than the straight SAE 30 WOULD HAVE BEEN".
04-15-2010, 12:23 PM
#11
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This is what I do before every event:
All of these will not apply to you.
1. Change oil to Valvoline Racing oil VR1 20w50
2. Take street brake pads off and change to Cobalt CSR's
3. Install mid-pipe if it's not already on
4. Tighten all bolts under car
5. Remove rear seats and all floormats
6. Remove liner in trunk so I can access the coilover adjustments
7. Screw in front & rear tow bars (from your trunk)
8. Check tire pressure in R-Compounds (start at 32lbs)
Every few events:
1. Replace plugs
2. Replace coils
3. Clean MAF
Items to carry to the track:
1. Note pad & Pin for classroom
2. Sun screen
3. Cap/hat
4. Long pants (natural fiber) Most events require these
5. Long sleeve shirt (natural fiber) Some events require but not all
6. Thin rain coat just in case
7. Tire chock, to keep you car from rolling. You should not be using your emergency brake.
8. Basic tools
9. Floor jack if you have one. If you are not changing tires, this is not necessary.
10. Torque wrench for lug nuts
11. Helmet - Snell 2000 or 2005.... you need to check the rules of the organization you run with.
12. Bottled water... VERY important to stay hydrated
13. Healthy snacks... you need to stay alert
14. plastic sleeve to keep the schedule in
15. Painters tape in case you need for number adjustments, to hold them down or tape up your lights. This is also handy to cover up your tag for those pesky insurance agents that show up with a camera.
14. Racing gloves
15. Racing shoes
16. White chalk (I don't bother with this but some mark their tires to see where the wear is on the edge)
17. If you have an easy up, this can save you from the hot sun.
18. Camera
19. Video camera and mount (good to have to look back and analyze but certainly not required)
At the track:
1. install camera mount
2. Mount R-Comps
3. Check tire pressure (start at 32lbs cold and come off track at 38 hot approx.)
4. Torque lug nuts to 80lbs (some go 90lbs)
5. Check oil level (I run 1/8 below full)
6. Some pre-mix oil/gas (4-8 oz.) I haven't lately
7. Numbers for car should be contrasting color and 10"-11" tall or larger. This varies per organazation. This is based on NASA-SE rules.
Things to remember:
1. This is the single most important mod you can make to your car... the "Driver Mod".
2. Remember to breath!
3. Relax and enjoy. Don't make it work.
I'm sure I left something important off!
We have a great group of instructors at http://www.garx8club.com and we will offer you any help you need. Feel free to join in on our forum anytime to discuss any issues, post videos or talk about tracks you like to run. That goes for any of you.
Don Yaun
TTD & Instructor NASA-SE, BMWCCA, DarkSideDE, MVP Tracktime
All of these will not apply to you.
1. Change oil to Valvoline Racing oil VR1 20w50
2. Take street brake pads off and change to Cobalt CSR's
3. Install mid-pipe if it's not already on
4. Tighten all bolts under car
5. Remove rear seats and all floormats
6. Remove liner in trunk so I can access the coilover adjustments
7. Screw in front & rear tow bars (from your trunk)
8. Check tire pressure in R-Compounds (start at 32lbs)
Every few events:
1. Replace plugs
2. Replace coils
3. Clean MAF
Items to carry to the track:
1. Note pad & Pin for classroom
2. Sun screen
3. Cap/hat
4. Long pants (natural fiber) Most events require these
5. Long sleeve shirt (natural fiber) Some events require but not all
6. Thin rain coat just in case
7. Tire chock, to keep you car from rolling. You should not be using your emergency brake.
8. Basic tools
9. Floor jack if you have one. If you are not changing tires, this is not necessary.
10. Torque wrench for lug nuts
11. Helmet - Snell 2000 or 2005.... you need to check the rules of the organization you run with.
12. Bottled water... VERY important to stay hydrated
13. Healthy snacks... you need to stay alert
14. plastic sleeve to keep the schedule in
15. Painters tape in case you need for number adjustments, to hold them down or tape up your lights. This is also handy to cover up your tag for those pesky insurance agents that show up with a camera.
14. Racing gloves
15. Racing shoes
16. White chalk (I don't bother with this but some mark their tires to see where the wear is on the edge)
17. If you have an easy up, this can save you from the hot sun.
18. Camera
19. Video camera and mount (good to have to look back and analyze but certainly not required)
At the track:
1. install camera mount
2. Mount R-Comps
3. Check tire pressure (start at 32lbs cold and come off track at 38 hot approx.)
4. Torque lug nuts to 80lbs (some go 90lbs)
5. Check oil level (I run 1/8 below full)
6. Some pre-mix oil/gas (4-8 oz.) I haven't lately
7. Numbers for car should be contrasting color and 10"-11" tall or larger. This varies per organazation. This is based on NASA-SE rules.
Things to remember:
1. This is the single most important mod you can make to your car... the "Driver Mod".
2. Remember to breath!
3. Relax and enjoy. Don't make it work.
I'm sure I left something important off!
We have a great group of instructors at http://www.garx8club.com and we will offer you any help you need. Feel free to join in on our forum anytime to discuss any issues, post videos or talk about tracks you like to run. That goes for any of you.
Don Yaun
TTD & Instructor NASA-SE, BMWCCA, DarkSideDE, MVP Tracktime
04-15-2010, 02:52 PM
#13
olddragger, Wiser words were never spoken! Use that redline shift for qualifying sprint or to jump in front, but when you're spread out on the track keep the revs down so you won't build up a heat load. My racing preferences are toward American Le mans Series or just the June Le Mans race. If you watch some of those videos of the 1991 Le Mans winner Mazda 787B; that driver was shifting around 7k rpm, but had a killer 4 rotor, and he WON THE 24HR RACE!
04-15-2010, 03:08 PM
#14
Momentum Keeps Me Going
In all fairness to this new fellow...staying out of 8-9K may be a bit hard (and it is so much fun too!). I've followed your history OD of overheating problems and solutions OD 
so I understand your caution..esp living and tracking where you do.
... not sure where NOVA is, or the weather there, but unless it's near the equator at this time of year...it's likely fairly mild temps. And my 6 yrs of tracking has never produced overheating and I've never really stressed over the rev limit, with no apparent ill effects.
... we all know the power falls of after 8000 or so but that's about when the buzzer goes off and unless you're constantly watching the tach (and *don't* stare at the gauges on track - stare at the track *way* up ahead!) you'll end up there regardless when you hear the buzzer. It's OK, just realize power falls off at about 8400 rpm as I recollect. Realize that the tach is fairly inaccurate and reads high and when it says 8K it isn't and when it says 9K it isn't.
... so relax a bit and have fun, don't worry about too much (but do the essential things and good advice everyone has mentioned as much as possible) and carefully listen and learn from your instructor. Listen for the beep and shift as it is designed for you to do...BUT...make sure you're coolant is in good condition, add some water wetter or similar, make sure your oil and water radiators are clear and clean for maximum cooling.
so I understand your caution..esp living and tracking where you do.... not sure where NOVA is, or the weather there, but unless it's near the equator at this time of year...it's likely fairly mild temps. And my 6 yrs of tracking has never produced overheating and I've never really stressed over the rev limit, with no apparent ill effects.
... we all know the power falls of after 8000 or so but that's about when the buzzer goes off and unless you're constantly watching the tach (and *don't* stare at the gauges on track - stare at the track *way* up ahead!) you'll end up there regardless when you hear the buzzer. It's OK, just realize power falls off at about 8400 rpm as I recollect. Realize that the tach is fairly inaccurate and reads high and when it says 8K it isn't and when it says 9K it isn't.
... so relax a bit and have fun, don't worry about too much (but do the essential things and good advice everyone has mentioned as much as possible) and carefully listen and learn from your instructor. Listen for the beep and shift as it is designed for you to do...BUT...make sure you're coolant is in good condition, add some water wetter or similar, make sure your oil and water radiators are clear and clean for maximum cooling.
Last edited by Spin9k; 04-15-2010 at 03:10 PM.
04-15-2010, 03:27 PM
#15
My air filter was cleaned a few weeks ago so that should be good to go for awhile.
I think in all fairness, this being the first time ever for this, I am just going to get the car looked at, get the oil changed, make sure the tires are good, throw in some pre-mix and go to the track. The more I look at all this stuff, the more it's not for the first time.
Going to the brake fluid change though because it looks like it might need it. the stuff in the reservoir is starting to get a tad ugly. I did a bleed maybe 6 months ago so maybe we didn't do such a good job.
I think in all fairness, this being the first time ever for this, I am just going to get the car looked at, get the oil changed, make sure the tires are good, throw in some pre-mix and go to the track. The more I look at all this stuff, the more it's not for the first time.
Going to the brake fluid change though because it looks like it might need it. the stuff in the reservoir is starting to get a tad ugly. I did a bleed maybe 6 months ago so maybe we didn't do such a good job.
04-16-2010, 09:13 AM
#16
True BB----sorry we threw all this stuff out there for a 1st timer.
Go have fun and as Spin says -listen to your instructor.
Wise move on the brake fluid.
Watch your air pressures on your tires--just check them after a session, check your oil after a session and dont use the parking brake after a session!
Other than that ---have a blast--its a very easy car to drive on track. Warning --it is addictive!!!
OD
Go have fun and as Spin says -listen to your instructor.
Wise move on the brake fluid.
Watch your air pressures on your tires--just check them after a session, check your oil after a session and dont use the parking brake after a session!
Other than that ---have a blast--its a very easy car to drive on track. Warning --it is addictive!!!
OD
05-10-2010, 12:35 PM
#18
so I think I am set (2 week and counting can't wait!!)
oil has just been changed, diff fluid changed, brake fluid was changed out a few weeks ago. Alignment done, everything else checks out.
Going to pick up some pre-mix for the day. Do you guys suggest using that water wetter stuff?
I'm an AT so... I will be out of the 8-9k rpms
oil has just been changed, diff fluid changed, brake fluid was changed out a few weeks ago. Alignment done, everything else checks out.
Going to pick up some pre-mix for the day. Do you guys suggest using that water wetter stuff?
I'm an AT so... I will be out of the 8-9k rpms
05-19-2010, 07:12 PM
#22
All kinds of advice here and most of it is sound.
But, really, for your first track day all you need is your car in its regular, road-going condition and your wits and humor.
If you are good about your maintenance regularly, there is nothing special you can or SHOULD do before you go out. The last thing you need to be thinking about is something you changed the day before.
Just show up with comfortable shoes and some water and go at it.
Shift wherever you feel like it and just pay attention to your instructor.
And - very important - if you and your instructor don't "click", get a different one.
Have fun.
You are not Michael Schumacher (none of us are) and, even if you are that good, you won't be on your first day.
Or your second.
But, really, for your first track day all you need is your car in its regular, road-going condition and your wits and humor.
If you are good about your maintenance regularly, there is nothing special you can or SHOULD do before you go out. The last thing you need to be thinking about is something you changed the day before.
Just show up with comfortable shoes and some water and go at it.
Shift wherever you feel like it and just pay attention to your instructor.
And - very important - if you and your instructor don't "click", get a different one.
Have fun.
You are not Michael Schumacher (none of us are) and, even if you are that good, you won't be on your first day.
Or your second.
05-21-2010, 06:55 PM
#24
well i survived and so did my car (I must check the brake pads tomorrow)
was on Summit Point track.
It went VERY well. They let me stop having the instructor after my second heat. I was pulling the fastest times in my group and was really only beat out on one lap in my third heat.
The car handles amazing, it never really felt like it was going to lose it no matter how poorly I may have entered a corner or braked late etc. It just kept going.
Wish the car had a bit more to get it going coming out of turn 10 but I was hitting 105 in the straight. I pass a few people but I went neck and neck on the straight with a miata but couldn't pass. I also kept up very well with a some sotra trans-am except between turns 10 and 1 but I was back with him the entire rest of the track.
I used manual modethe entire time as the auto mode just didn't cut it at all. It would be keeping me 4th gear around turn one and leave me with nothing coming into turn 2 and after. It was terrible. in manual mode, I was ususally in 3rd the entire time except in turn one, I would hit second to be able to really accelerate into turn 2 and around turn 7 (I think) I would go into 2 if the car allowed me. I only went above 3 on the straight as I needed to or redline and would not be able to keep going.
Amazing what this car can do and how well it can keep up. I could only imagine what guys with turbos are able to do. kinda wish the car now had a little bit more oompf in the rear, but can't really complain at all.
Now to clear my wheels.... they are black!
was on Summit Point track.
It went VERY well. They let me stop having the instructor after my second heat. I was pulling the fastest times in my group and was really only beat out on one lap in my third heat.
The car handles amazing, it never really felt like it was going to lose it no matter how poorly I may have entered a corner or braked late etc. It just kept going.
Wish the car had a bit more to get it going coming out of turn 10 but I was hitting 105 in the straight. I pass a few people but I went neck and neck on the straight with a miata but couldn't pass. I also kept up very well with a some sotra trans-am except between turns 10 and 1 but I was back with him the entire rest of the track.
I used manual modethe entire time as the auto mode just didn't cut it at all. It would be keeping me 4th gear around turn one and leave me with nothing coming into turn 2 and after. It was terrible. in manual mode, I was ususally in 3rd the entire time except in turn one, I would hit second to be able to really accelerate into turn 2 and around turn 7 (I think) I would go into 2 if the car allowed me. I only went above 3 on the straight as I needed to or redline and would not be able to keep going.
Amazing what this car can do and how well it can keep up. I could only imagine what guys with turbos are able to do. kinda wish the car now had a little bit more oompf in the rear, but can't really complain at all.
Now to clear my wheels.... they are black!
05-21-2010, 08:19 PM
#25
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Now comes the inevitable slow spiral. Just a little more brake. Then just a little more power. Then just a little stiffer suspension... Enjoy!