Helmet with more headroom
#1
I'll snap his neck.
Thread Starter
Helmet with more headroom
Strange thread title, I know...
I currently have the G-Force open face helmet. It is a comfortable helmet, but I'm not able to adjust the seat exactly how I like it because I run out of headroom.
Are there helmets out there that would be "thinner" on the top of the head and still have the required rating for track days? It would be nice to get some more headroom. Or am I just SOL?
Anybody have a similar issue, make a switch, and have it improve?
Thanks in advance!
I currently have the G-Force open face helmet. It is a comfortable helmet, but I'm not able to adjust the seat exactly how I like it because I run out of headroom.
Are there helmets out there that would be "thinner" on the top of the head and still have the required rating for track days? It would be nice to get some more headroom. Or am I just SOL?
Anybody have a similar issue, make a switch, and have it improve?
Thanks in advance!
#5
I have friends who increased their headroom by going from open face to a full face model. One fellow went from a Bell Mag4 to a KBC full face model (M2005 cert) and found he didn't bounce off the headliner nearly as much.
You'll have to find a shop with inventory and try helmets on, it would depend on the shape of your head and finding the right helmet.
You'll have to find a shop with inventory and try helmets on, it would depend on the shape of your head and finding the right helmet.
#6
Buying new seat that sits lower is the best bet either way. I'm 6' tall and once and a while I smack the roof.
Plus the factory seats don't hold you in well anyway. I find myself more tired than I need to be after a longer session because a lot of my energy is put into keeping my body in the seat. A god aftermarket seat will fix three things. Less weight, more strength/stamina, and helmet clearance.
Plus the factory seats don't hold you in well anyway. I find myself more tired than I need to be after a longer session because a lot of my energy is put into keeping my body in the seat. A god aftermarket seat will fix three things. Less weight, more strength/stamina, and helmet clearance.
#7
I'll snap his neck.
Thread Starter
Buying new seat that sits lower is the best bet either way. I'm 6' tall and once and a while I smack the roof.
Plus the factory seats don't hold you in well anyway. I find myself more tired than I need to be after a longer session because a lot of my energy is put into keeping my body in the seat. A god aftermarket seat will fix three things. Less weight, more strength/stamina, and helmet clearance.
Plus the factory seats don't hold you in well anyway. I find myself more tired than I need to be after a longer session because a lot of my energy is put into keeping my body in the seat. A god aftermarket seat will fix three things. Less weight, more strength/stamina, and helmet clearance.
#8
I'll snap his neck.
Thread Starter
I have friends who increased their headroom by going from open face to a full face model. One fellow went from a Bell Mag4 to a KBC full face model (M2005 cert) and found he didn't bounce off the headliner nearly as much.
You'll have to find a shop with inventory and try helmets on, it would depend on the shape of your head and finding the right helmet.
You'll have to find a shop with inventory and try helmets on, it would depend on the shape of your head and finding the right helmet.
#9
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I had another problem last week at a SOLO. The right front corner of my seat (under my right thigh) collapsed on a long right sweeper. This is with manual seats set to the highest setting. Any explanation or solution? It did seem to reset after another lower/raise cycle but I'm not trusting it.
#10
Are there helmets out there that would be "thinner" on the top of the head and still have the required rating for track days?
http://www.hjchelmets.com/
Last edited by Soloseven; 06-16-2009 at 06:40 PM. Reason: Adding link
#11
Yeah I've read into that before and it doesn't seem bad at all. I like the idea of sitting lower and shedding quite a bit of weight off the car. For a budget racer, I think the G-Lock is a great solution and I'm glad you mentioned it.
#12
I'll snap his neck.
Thread Starter
Although from what I can tell the "stock" CGLock will not work with our seatbelt because of the design, but someone did mention to me that you can install it "backwards". I use the "Instructor" version of the CG lock which seems to work fairly well.
#13
You can either install it backwards, or just install it the correct way up, and exclude the bottom piece of the tongue on the CG Lock.
When you go to use it, just slide the guide/tongue of the CG Lock into the seatbelt buckle slot, BETWEEN the belt and the plastic. The width of the CG Lock tongue keeps jams it against the buckle once you cinch up. Even better, & works great.
When you go to use it, just slide the guide/tongue of the CG Lock into the seatbelt buckle slot, BETWEEN the belt and the plastic. The width of the CG Lock tongue keeps jams it against the buckle once you cinch up. Even better, & works great.
#14
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hmm
I always just push the seat back a little,
give the seat belt a tug and lock it,
then move my seat forward and push a little against the locked seatbelt.
- Tight seat belt, wont unlock if your pushed against it enough.
- Free, 40$ more in my pocket.
- Works on all cars.
I always just push the seat back a little,
give the seat belt a tug and lock it,
then move my seat forward and push a little against the locked seatbelt.
- Tight seat belt, wont unlock if your pushed against it enough.
- Free, 40$ more in my pocket.
- Works on all cars.
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