Title says it all...go ahead, take your best shot.

 

65 front 5 rear

 

Is that in conjunction with the new Team 12mm front bar?

 

you got it

 

I was running mine in the lower 40's at nats, and I then went down to the upper 30's. CLyde said that he had best results with 30f 27r, but you have to be careful with the sidewalls then.

 

Sorry for the dumb question but how do you fit a 285 on a 8" wheel. I bet your local tire installers hate you

 

Well, after today, let's just say I've seen my tire guy happier...he's threatened to bump me from $10/corner for m&b to $15, if I bring back more of the big Hoosiers...two guys, almost 1 1/2 hours work.

The tire fits, but it does kind of look like a really fat guy wearing too tight of a belt...

Cito, thanks for the information on pressures!

 

that's why I got rid of them, some wiseguy made a funny joke ...

at 30/27 just make sure you take a healthy dose of dramamine several hours before you run ...

.

 

I never ran them that low, but I am going to try it at least once given that Clyde and John V did the most in terms of research with the tires. At the lower pressures that I have tried, they do feel a bit squirmy.

 

Vehicle size
Recommended Hot Pressure
Cold Pressure

1800-2200 lbs.
34-37+
26-31

2200-2600 lbs.
35-38+
27-32

2600-3000 lbs.
37-41+
27-32

over 3000 lbs.
38-43+
27-33

https://www.hoosiertire.com/rrtire.htm

 

I don't think we did the most, we've just been more open on the forums about what we found. We started with higher pressures in the Hoosiers. Transitions felt awful no matter what the pressure. The lower the pressure, the faster we went. I wouldn't expect them to last very long at 30/27, especially if you're at all prone to overdriving.

 

So, we'll just have to make it transition better with a bigger front bar...and more front toe out...then soften the rear...

 

with only 30 in the front the sidewalls will be soft enough to not mind sloppy steering inputs ...

 

Update:
I ran the fat boy Hoosiers, started at 35 all around, let them climb to about 36 and then evened them out at that level. Car felt just fine, on a course with a number of slaloms and a couple of turnarounds and sweepers. The thing that makes these initial impressions of less value is that it was about 50 degrees and the course was damp in some places, so, even with a co-driver, we never got enough heat in the tires to get more than 2-3 psi pressure increase in a single run and the tires never reached a stabilized pressure.

So, not enough information to really judge what's what, but a pretty encouraging first effort. If the car feels about the same next weekend, I'm going to an adjustable front bar and taking some camber out of the rear, in all likelihood.

 

Why are you running 285 Hoosiers? Are you trying to go slow, or do you just like spending more money?

 

he has a codriver with an unlimited supply of "Get Out Of Hoosier-Jail Free" cards

They didn't work for at Packwood last year, but perhaps my setup didn't favor them. The course we ran this past weekend IMO was about as favorable for them as was possible, nothing like Packwood or a typical Pro course/conditions

 

Then why not buy the 245 Hoosier? I don't understand the fascination with the 285 tire.

 

The jury's still out, as far as I'm concerned. It'll be clear in about 6 weeks whether we've made them work...

They did feel great in the slaloms this past weekend, which I find encouraging

 

They felt great in slaloms??

WTF?!

 

LOL, it was really just a curvey WOT straight, the gate spacing was quite long

I would'nt call the course or conditions typical, despite running the front bar stiffer than I've ever run it before our car was still very loose

 

True, the slalom spacing going out was very open, but the car still felt better in transistion than I expected. Like I've said, not much learned, given the conditions and course, but I really expected it to be pretty bad and it clearly wasn't...unless I get by the baghead's times purely on my superior driving ability

Interesting comment about your front bar being set stiffer and still being loose. I wonder if that indicates that my car will see push on a completely dry, warmer surface? I now have -1.8 front camber and the rear shocks at full stiff, with the stock front bar. Maybe that combination is enough to get the front to stick...

 

Now that really funny.

 

Try again, but use English this time.

 

Why only use 245's, why not 205's or 185's? Do you just want to go slow? You want as much rubber as possible, unless you are a drifter trying to screw things up. BTW the 245 hoosiers will overheat before the 275 or 285's. Might be a trick for Topeka.

But why am I responding to someone who is banned?

 

I dont think its the over heating issue... i think its the issues of too much tire on a 8" rim. And how much overheating is an isssue on a 30 second pass? Its not like he's doing a full 20 min track event... where it would be a much larger factor.

Someone earlier said its all about getting more rubber down, but if the rubber isnt making contact, is just bubbling, and is weighing more than the 245/255 tire but with the same contact patch - then yeah, maybe not such a great idea.

Then again... im just a noob at this, so whatever.

-hS