Is there a factory suspension option that i can install that will lower the ride height of the car? I have a 2007 Sport.

I really want to stay in B-stock. it's just more economical:P

 

uh, mazdaspeed is the only "factory option".

 

Not a factory option, it is a dealer installed option, and not stock class legal.

 

Yep, the only way to legally lower the ride height is by:
1. Making sure you have the shortest oem springs possible...there is some manufacturing/supplier variance, I hear.
2. Installing Konis
3. Degassing said Konis

 

Full tank of gas... Eat a lot... Carry three of your friends with you.

 

Seriously, though...how much do you think the Koni yellows dropped your car? I'm thinking at least a 1/4"...not a ton, but my car definitely looks low compared to the bone stock '8s I run with in SFR.

 

I seem to recall like an 1/8" on mine.

 

Sounds about right. Whatever, it is a visible difference and degassing might bring it down even more.

Speaking of shocks, anyone have any comments on the Koni revalving experiments that have been going on around the country? Or is that "if I told you, I'd have to kill you" type info?

 

The prototypes dropped mine by 10-11mm (forget which was front and which was back).

 

The best option for autocross and staying b stock is buying a set of DOT racing tires. If they are street legal they don't advance your class. Other then becoming a better driver a set of kumho v710's and a racing alignment will give you a lot better result then a 1/8 of ride height.

 

Uh, yeah, DOT R's and an alignment will yield more results than dropping the ride height an 1/8", but that's not what is being discussed.

The OP wanted to know if you could lower the car in BS. He didn't state why he wanted to affect that change.

Now, someone answer my question on the revalving of the Koni yellows, dammit

 

I did not know there was experiments going on... Far as I know you have off the shelf stuff or TRX8 stuff.

 

Well, I know of at least one AZ car that went to new valving and I believe that someone else on the east coast had sent some shocks back to Koni, also.

My passenger's front shock seems to be leaking a little bit at the top, so if I have to send them back, I might play around with 'em a little. Of course, I'll be pulling them off the car and selling them in the next six months or so, anyhow.

 

Yeah I forgot about the AZ guys.... The ones who had to replace blown shocks at natls.

You should get some custom shocks... It was clear to me the only thing holding you back at natls was your OTS Konis.

 

Now that's not nice. We all know, at my age, it takes at least three days of driving to get used to the surface...btw, FM's new name for me is "OnedayMike"...not sure if that's an improvement over midpack Mike, frankly...anyhow, the car was fine, as Matthew proved in winning the Pro Finale

I was just curious about what people might change in the dampening of the Konis, if anything. My car is plenty fast as is, but if I have to send them back, maybe I'll experiment a little

 

Yes he did, it was fine right up till you changed tires and he went from 1st to 2nd.

If you are going to use the warranty you don't have to send them back first. Koni will send you the new OTS shock and you send back the old one, no down time that way.

So.... FastMike-Bridesmaid
mwood-OneDayMike
Carter-SecondDayThompson

 

I don't think tires mattered, too much. The Hoosiers were great. Managing tire heat was more the problem day two of Nationals, to be honest. But, you did what you had to do and drove great and that's all there is to it.

Didn't know that about the Koni warranty. I think I'll dig the receipt out from DPE and get a new shock sent out. thanks.

 

How much leaking is enough to make a swap out/warranty claim worthwhile? How much leaking did you observe? one of my front Konis seems to be weeping, but I don't see enough to form, say, a pool of oil in the little area where the top of the shock pokes out of the mounting area.
don't see any stains on the shock body as viewed inside the wheel well, either. I would think a more serious leak would show more evidence, right? it wouldn't just blow away/vaporize.

 

When I first saw it I had oil in the top of the mounting area, on the shock body and the fender liner. I then drove the car 1800 miles to TX, won the Houston tour, drove home and replaced them. They say with the twin tube there is a lot of oil in there. So a little weeping is not a big deal.

 

There is a kit that lowers any car. It involves four sheetrock screws and will lower the car from 1 to 4" depending on tire size....

Alright, that was dumb.

ULLLOSE's car seemed by far the lowest of the OTS Koni cars at Nationals in 2006. I would love to know his secret or at least trade springs with him. I have bought several sets of stock springs, and there has not been much variation in what I have seen, but I am still looking. Will Mazdaspeed help in finding a short set of stock springs?

I was wondering whether modifying the lower mount on the Koni's would be possible, viable, and legal. I think I looked at them last year, and there really wasn't any modification that would seem to make sense aside from sending them in and getting the $2+k modification to degas, double adjust, etc.

Any changes to my car at this point will be of limited benefit given that my biggest problems are cerebral in nature, but during these long Iowa winters, I need something to think about...

 

FM

 

Drive the car every day and work it hard on the weekends, just like a beat dog it stays down.

The funny part is while mine is down there, still not at the lowest spec in the manual, mwood gets more -camber than me.

No mods to the lower mount or spring seat would be legal, they have to match the stock dimensions.

 

cool...mebbe more leaking=more Tour wins !! <takes hammer & chisel down to garage>

 

The reason I get a little more camber is because of my sponsor, Custom Alignment of Mt. View (ask for Joe Silva, owner), and the great techs they have working on all the race cars.





Actually, it's probably more due to inter car variance, as I know of other '8s at Nationals that had more camber than mine. Also, which is more important running the V710, an extra .1-.2 negative camber or 1/8" additional lower ride height? Anyone want to do the math to determine what 1/8" means to cg and roll centers?

 

That could be part of my problem. I just crossed 13k after two years of leasership. 1k miles was the ride home from the dealership after I leased it.

I went ahead and bought it now, and I am trying to get reinvigorated with the idea of placing in the top 30 at nats next year.

Given my fat a$$, 250 pounds and counting, I would think that the left front spring would be getting a little bit tired. Even switched to Konis, and the front is still as high as a Subaru Outback and/or Jack Black.