Lapping days in a stock RX8 - 2 merged threads
#29
Originally Posted by 92tsiawd
I've lapped my car 10 times this past summer, it's been really fun except for the getting pulled by almost everything in the straights. The thing you really need is just brake fluid as I have boiled the stock fluid on a hot summer day. Other than that even the stock pads work great. There's another thing I don't like about the car, gas mileage, it's already bad for normal driving, but lapping is another beast of it's own. The most damage I've done is after filling up right outside the track, lapped 130kms ~= 78 miles and the low fuel light came on. Nevertheless I burned two tanks of gas at the track that day
I'll need to get used to it because I bought an RX8 yesterday.
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I have a lapping day coming up on Dec. 17th
So, I've already ordered some HAWK HP Plus pads for both front and rear (I like to use the same pad compound, f/r to establish a baseline on my first outing). It seems like lots of the PDE guys here use a staggered compound for front and rear, so that may be what I end up using.
I'll be flushing the brakes with ATE Super Blue, since I have a decent supply of it in my garage.
I'm going to try this alignment (or similar) which I found on these boards.
Camber: 1.3" front and 1.5" rear (this was as much as we could get in both cases)
6.8 Caster
0 toe front and 1/16" rear
6.8 Caster
0 toe front and 1/16" rear
#30
have a lapping day coming up on Dec. 17th
So, I've already ordered some HAWK HP Plus pads for both front and rear (I like to use the same pad compound, f/r to establish a baseline on my first outing). It seems like lots of the PDE guys here use a staggered compound for front and rear, so that may be what I end up using.
I'll be flushing the brakes with ATE Super Blue, since I have a decent supply of it in my garage.
I'm going to try this alignment (or similar) which I found on these boards.
Any other suggestions?
So, I've already ordered some HAWK HP Plus pads for both front and rear (I like to use the same pad compound, f/r to establish a baseline on my first outing). It seems like lots of the PDE guys here use a staggered compound for front and rear, so that may be what I end up using.
I'll be flushing the brakes with ATE Super Blue, since I have a decent supply of it in my garage.
I'm going to try this alignment (or similar) which I found on these boards.
Camber: 1.3" front and 1.5" rear (this was as much as we could get in both cases)
6.8 Caster
0 toe front and 1/16" rear
6.8 Caster
0 toe front and 1/16" rear
#32
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Originally Posted by SouthFL
have a lapping day coming up on Dec. 17th
So, I've already ordered some HAWK HP Plus pads for both front and rear (I like to use the same pad compound, f/r to establish a baseline on my first outing). It seems like lots of the PDE guys here use a staggered compound for front and rear, so that may be what I end up using.
I'll be flushing the brakes with ATE Super Blue, since I have a decent supply of it in my garage.
I'm going to try this alignment (or similar) which I found on these boards.
Any other suggestions?
So, I've already ordered some HAWK HP Plus pads for both front and rear (I like to use the same pad compound, f/r to establish a baseline on my first outing). It seems like lots of the PDE guys here use a staggered compound for front and rear, so that may be what I end up using.
I'll be flushing the brakes with ATE Super Blue, since I have a decent supply of it in my garage.
I'm going to try this alignment (or similar) which I found on these boards.
Any other suggestions?
#33
Originally Posted by BlueRenesis82
I used HP+'s for a long time, and finally was using them up, and had other problems. I went to the Carbotechs and have loved them, streetable but also great for the track
#34
In your previous post you mentioned getting fade with the HP+. With you being an SCCA regional driver I doubt that you won't experience the same with the RX8. If you drive it hard I guarantee that they will fade.
For what it's worth I use Hawk HT-14's on the front and Hawk blues on the rear.
Zero fade and they stop NOW! I also stick with the cheap stuff for fluid, Ford HD, you can't beat it for the price.
You also might want to try a little toe out on the front. It will help the car turn in a little better but it is all driver preference. Good Luck you will love tracking the RX8.
For what it's worth I use Hawk HT-14's on the front and Hawk blues on the rear.
Zero fade and they stop NOW! I also stick with the cheap stuff for fluid, Ford HD, you can't beat it for the price.
You also might want to try a little toe out on the front. It will help the car turn in a little better but it is all driver preference. Good Luck you will love tracking the RX8.
#35
Originally Posted by hogcar
In your previous post you mentioned getting fade with the HP+. With you being an SCCA regional driver I doubt that you won't experience the same with the RX8. If you drive it hard I guarantee that they will fade.
For what it's worth I use Hawk HT-14's on the front and Hawk blues on the rear.
Zero fade and they stop NOW! I also stick with the cheap stuff for fluid, Ford HD, you can't beat it for the price.
You also might want to try a little toe out on the front. It will help the car turn in a little better but it is all driver preference. Good Luck you will love tracking the RX8.
For what it's worth I use Hawk HT-14's on the front and Hawk blues on the rear.
Zero fade and they stop NOW! I also stick with the cheap stuff for fluid, Ford HD, you can't beat it for the price.
You also might want to try a little toe out on the front. It will help the car turn in a little better but it is all driver preference. Good Luck you will love tracking the RX8.
#36
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Originally Posted by SouthFL
Were they overheating (crumbling)? Killing your rotors? Fading? What was wrong with them? I've used them for about a year now and I'm OK with their performance, and I did go beyond their limits as the car's power increased and drove faster in general (but that was on another platform).
![Smilie](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#37
Originally Posted by BlueRenesis82
crumbling and fading. I was just going too fast for them, which was kind of a ego boost ![Smilie](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smilie](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I think I'll try either of the following setups then:
Porterfield R4 Front (Swap to an R4S for the street)
Porterfield R4S Rear
or
Carbotech XP10 Front (Swap to an XP8 for the street)
Carbotech XP8 Rear
or
Hawk Blue Front (Swap to an HP Plus for the street)
Hawk HP Plus Rear
Last edited by SouthFL; 12-01-2006 at 05:24 PM.
#38
Registered
Originally Posted by tomfree
Everything else is stock - shocks, sway bars, exhaust, intake, etc. I've tracked the car this year with 3 different tire combinations
- 18x9 wheels with 245/40/18 Azenis 615
- 18x8 OEM wheels with 245/35/18 Kumho V710
- 17x9 wheels with 245/45/17 Nittos mentioned above.
- 18x9 wheels with 245/40/18 Azenis 615
- 18x8 OEM wheels with 245/35/18 Kumho V710
- 17x9 wheels with 245/45/17 Nittos mentioned above.
Also, how did the 710's hold up on the track? I was under the impression that they are so soft they'd wear out extremely quickly. I've been torn between putting autocross tires and track tires on my spare wheels. If the 710's will hold up on the track that would be easiest.
#39
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Unless you are a crazy dude on brakes...you could probably use HP+/HPS combo...or HP+ on all 4 as a start. You have to get the brakes real hot before your going to kill the HP+'s
I used HPS my first year...and found they were good except at my home track that is hellish on brakes.......no time to cool them off. I had some fade in an hour run group near the end...other than that they fared OK
Since then i have gone to 2PC rotors and 4pots in the front with Blacks, and HP+ on the rear. I haven't had any fade, deposits or problems with this setup.
I have run down Porche 997's, STI's 350's consistantly in the braking zones...and had an instructor with a severely modified M3 almost have a heart attack at my choice of braking markers on the first run group of the day. His comments were " If I did that in my car...I would have been off the track"
I used HPS my first year...and found they were good except at my home track that is hellish on brakes.......no time to cool them off. I had some fade in an hour run group near the end...other than that they fared OK
Since then i have gone to 2PC rotors and 4pots in the front with Blacks, and HP+ on the rear. I haven't had any fade, deposits or problems with this setup.
I have run down Porche 997's, STI's 350's consistantly in the braking zones...and had an instructor with a severely modified M3 almost have a heart attack at my choice of braking markers on the first run group of the day. His comments were " If I did that in my car...I would have been off the track"
#40
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Originally Posted by SouthFL
Thanks.
I think I'll try either of the following setups then:
Porterfield R4 Front (Swap to an R4S for the street)
Porterfield R4S Rear
or
Carbotech XP10 Front (Swap to an XP8 for the street)
Carbotech XP8 Rear
or
Hawk Blue Front (Swap to an HP Plus for the street)
Hawk HP Plus Rear
I think I'll try either of the following setups then:
Porterfield R4 Front (Swap to an R4S for the street)
Porterfield R4S Rear
or
Carbotech XP10 Front (Swap to an XP8 for the street)
Carbotech XP8 Rear
or
Hawk Blue Front (Swap to an HP Plus for the street)
Hawk HP Plus Rear
#41
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Originally Posted by Skinless
How was the stock suspension with the Kumho's? I tracked my car this year with the stock Bridgestone's and it was fine. I just got a spare set of wheels and I'm looking for some track tires. My only concern was that the extra grip might make me wish I'd upgraded the suspension. Any thoughts on that?
Also, how did the 710's hold up on the track? I was under the impression that they are so soft they'd wear out extremely quickly. I've been torn between putting autocross tires and track tires on my spare wheels. If the 710's will hold up on the track that would be easiest.
Also, how did the 710's hold up on the track? I was under the impression that they are so soft they'd wear out extremely quickly. I've been torn between putting autocross tires and track tires on my spare wheels. If the 710's will hold up on the track that would be easiest.
Lots of folks use the V710 on track, but they definitely don't last that long. This was my first event on them, and I saw no noticable wear with one cool track day.
My Corvette friends who run them generally get 6-8 days out of them. Yes, 6-8 days. They are good, but they definitely wear extremely quickly. Since I don't auto-x very much any more (the real purpose for purchasing the V710s to start with), I'll probably run them for 2 or 3 more weekends and trash them. Fortunately, the RX-8 is very friendly on tire wear.
If you liked the car with stock Bridgestones on track, you'll absolutely love it with sticker rubber, even stickier street tires will seem great.
#42
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Originally Posted by SouthFL
Thanks.
I think I'll try either of the following setups then:
Porterfield R4 Front (Swap to an R4S for the street)
Porterfield R4S Rear
or
Carbotech XP10 Front (Swap to an XP8 for the street)
Carbotech XP8 Rear
or
Hawk Blue Front (Swap to an HP Plus for the street)
Hawk HP Plus Rear
I think I'll try either of the following setups then:
Porterfield R4 Front (Swap to an R4S for the street)
Porterfield R4S Rear
or
Carbotech XP10 Front (Swap to an XP8 for the street)
Carbotech XP8 Rear
or
Hawk Blue Front (Swap to an HP Plus for the street)
Hawk HP Plus Rear
I've run Hawk Blues on another car and while excellent on track, they're downright frightening on the street, even just for the drive to and from the track. The just don't work when cold. The other unfortunate by-product of the Blues is the corrosive brake dust. If you don't wash the dust off your wheels within a day or two, it will rust and start to take a serious toll on the finish of your wheels. A friend and I absolutely ruined the clearcoat on a set of track wheels after one weekend. Good thing they were ugly track wheels to start with.
#43
Thanks for the responses everyone.
I spoke with Mazdatrix earlier this evening and they suggested simply trying out HP Plus front and back as a baseline (which was my original plan). That's what I'm going to do.
I spoke with Mazdatrix earlier this evening and they suggested simply trying out HP Plus front and back as a baseline (which was my original plan). That's what I'm going to do.
Last edited by SouthFL; 12-02-2006 at 07:53 AM.
#44
I would only use ceramic brakes.
I switched rotors to slots and had them Cryo treated.
Many track days and no maintence.
you will need Racing Beat sways and their intake plus a RP Cat.
that's it otherwise you are going back to MODDING!
Welcome to the club.
I switched rotors to slots and had them Cryo treated.
Many track days and no maintence.
you will need Racing Beat sways and their intake plus a RP Cat.
that's it otherwise you are going back to MODDING!
Welcome to the club.
#46
Originally Posted by Razz1
I would only use ceramic brakes.
I switched rotors to slots and had them Cryo treated.
Many track days and no maintence.
you will need Racing Beat sways and their intake plus a RP Cat.
that's it otherwise you are going back to MODDING!
Welcome to the club.
I switched rotors to slots and had them Cryo treated.
Many track days and no maintence.
you will need Racing Beat sways and their intake plus a RP Cat.
that's it otherwise you are going back to MODDING!
Welcome to the club.
#47
Took the RX8 out today for my first session of spirited driving on roads which I know pretty well (same roads I used to flog the WRX wagon on).
Within 5 minutes of seat time I was driving harder, shifting better on the rev match braking, braking later and holding a line with more precision than I was ever able to with the WRX. The RX8 is absolutely set up beautifully from the factory. Just enough horsepower to keep things entertaining. I was absolutely elated with my purchase after a few miles of driving.
Within 5 minutes of seat time I was driving harder, shifting better on the rev match braking, braking later and holding a line with more precision than I was ever able to with the WRX. The RX8 is absolutely set up beautifully from the factory. Just enough horsepower to keep things entertaining. I was absolutely elated with my purchase after a few miles of driving.
#49
Momentum Keeps Me Going
![Mdrmed](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/mdrmed.gif)
If you're looking for track tips, if you drive well or even just fast - your going to sorely miss not staying in your seat! The 8s seats are comfy, and ok for street use - but on the track they (and I'm talking the leather ones) let you slip slide around way too much (me=155lbs). A CG-Lock or similar device to lockup the seat belts will go along way to faster cornering, increased driver comfort and 'oneness' with the car at those critical moments. I also use some seat side bolsters to lock me in a bit tighter. Oh if only the seat design would accept a racing harness...
BTW, I have the HP+ pads front and rear with 275/35/18 RT-615 rubber and have had no fade whatsoever running only advanced groups (Porsche and BMW clubs), braking as little and as quickly as possible. I still can't beat too many on the straights, but them breaking zones are sure a fun payback time
![Smilie](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#50
Just got back from my first track day in the 8. Used 1 qt of oil in 4 sessions (about 1/4 quart per 30 min. session). Stock, it braked and turned through the cruves much better than my WRX ever did. The powerband is very conducive to getting on the throttle very early when powering out of a turn. Engine spent most of its time between 6000-9000rpm. It's a wonderful track car right from the factory. One thing the WRX did very well was brake and throttle modulation (for a floating caliper design). The 8 is more off/on in its pedal inputs- takes a little getting used to. Some SS brake lines would probably help.
Track prep consisted of:
Hawk HP Plus pads all around.
ATE fluid
Alignment:
-1.2F, -1.4R Camber
6.5 Caster
0 Toe F/R
34psi all around on OEM Dunlops.
Best of all- ZERO FADE!!!
Track prep consisted of:
Hawk HP Plus pads all around.
ATE fluid
Alignment:
-1.2F, -1.4R Camber
6.5 Caster
0 Toe F/R
34psi all around on OEM Dunlops.
Best of all- ZERO FADE!!!
![Smilie](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)