Nut & bolt checklist
#1
Nut & bolt checklist
Hey, getting my car ready for my season opener next weekend, and I am doing my own tech. I know to check the brake fluid, lugs, oil level and sway bushings. Are there any other areas that I should be checking/lubing/gazing lovingly at? If anyone has a list that would be super.
#2
I'm doing a Time Attack this weekend as well. I'm looking over the following:
Oil Change
Seafoam
Top off Coolant
Top off Brake/Clutch fluid
Top off fuel
Rotate Tires
Tighten Lugs
Tighten Strut Bar
Look over Oil Coolers
Look over brake rotors/pads
Look over motor mounts
Clean out the interior except for necessities
Oil Change
Seafoam
Top off Coolant
Top off Brake/Clutch fluid
Top off fuel
Rotate Tires
Tighten Lugs
Tighten Strut Bar
Look over Oil Coolers
Look over brake rotors/pads
Look over motor mounts
Clean out the interior except for necessities
#3
I'm doing a Time Attack this weekend as well. I'm looking over the following:
Oil Change
Seafoam
Top off Coolant
Top off Brake/Clutch fluid
Top off fuel
Rotate Tires
Tighten Lugs
Tighten Strut Bar
Look over Oil Coolers
Look over brake rotors/pads
Look over motor mounts
Clean out the interior except for necessities
Oil Change
Seafoam
Top off Coolant
Top off Brake/Clutch fluid
Top off fuel
Rotate Tires
Tighten Lugs
Tighten Strut Bar
Look over Oil Coolers
Look over brake rotors/pads
Look over motor mounts
Clean out the interior except for necessities
#7
No offense to everyone with the help that they have offered, but what I was really looking for was something like this:
Brake caliper bolts 40 lb/ft
Grease brake slider bolts
etc
etc
Brake caliper bolts 40 lb/ft
Grease brake slider bolts
etc
etc
#9
#10
I don't use a list but every year after winter, I start at the front of the car and I check everything I can get to til I'm to the back of the car. I check for leaks, damaged parts, and etc. This year it has taken me about 10 hours to completely finish the car that includes replacing parts. I could make you a list but it might be overkill for you. I'm just super cautious since I will probably do over 1000 track miles this year.
#11
#12
Hey blue... one thing that you really need to tighten are large bolts that hold the trans/diff to the PF (power frame). You have 4 on the front and back. If these get loosened you can have problems shifting due to the angle change. Not sure the size but make sure these are tightened in the 90# torque range.
Mine got loose one time and I lost one of the nuts. Shifting went to hell.
Also make sure the sway bar nuts are tight. I take the brackets off and grease the bushings first though.
You need to come back down to Road Atlanta and run with us again.
Mine got loose one time and I lost one of the nuts. Shifting went to hell.
Also make sure the sway bar nuts are tight. I take the brackets off and grease the bushings first though.
You need to come back down to Road Atlanta and run with us again.
#13
Hey blue... one thing that you really need to tighten are large bolts that hold the trans/diff to the PF (power frame). You have 4 on the front and back. If these get loosened you can have problems shifting due to the angle change. Not sure the size but make sure these are tightened in the 90# torque range.
Mine got loose one time and I lost one of the nuts. Shifting went to hell.
Also make sure the sway bar nuts are tight. I take the brackets off and grease the bushings first though.
You need to come back down to Road Atlanta and run with us again.
Mine got loose one time and I lost one of the nuts. Shifting went to hell.
Also make sure the sway bar nuts are tight. I take the brackets off and grease the bushings first though.
You need to come back down to Road Atlanta and run with us again.
I would love to come back, but since I got married, it would be nice to be able to go on a honeymoon. Gotta keep the wife happy.
#14
I check all the suspensions mounting points, sway bar endlinks, run my fingers along the braided brake lines looking for bumps or tears, and have added an alternator belt to my box of track gear, just in case it breaks, they are not common, and can ruin a weekend.
#15
Has anyone in your group had issues with that belt?
#16
yep, at CMP in February, OnRails had his let go early on Saturday, never found it, but it sidelined him for the rest of the weekend, because the only parts store around had to have it sent in from another store, and it would arrive on Sunday.
It is not an expensive belt, but it could ruin a weekend, why not have one around.
It is not an expensive belt, but it could ruin a weekend, why not have one around.
#18
i melted mine at Road Atlanta one summer---no joke--i have witness's!!!
That alternator get hot. Yea it does.
Add belt tension to you prep list
+
once a year i change diff and trans fluids
i change coolant
i do a complete brake fluid flush including the slave/master cylinder
check the brake caliper piston seals
check exhaust header bolts
check omp for leakage and line integrity
clean the maf and the eccentric shaft sensor
clean the wheel hub mounting surfaces--buildup can happen there.
check the roll bar end links----most people are surprised that binding is occurring there because the rubber seal cracks and there is no lube left
I guess I will stop here-----you asked !
OD
check ppf adjustment and all exhaust bolts
after the car is 5 + yrs old it may be wise to replace radiator hoses
That alternator get hot. Yea it does.
Add belt tension to you prep list
+
once a year i change diff and trans fluids
i change coolant
i do a complete brake fluid flush including the slave/master cylinder
check the brake caliper piston seals
check exhaust header bolts
check omp for leakage and line integrity
clean the maf and the eccentric shaft sensor
clean the wheel hub mounting surfaces--buildup can happen there.
check the roll bar end links----most people are surprised that binding is occurring there because the rubber seal cracks and there is no lube left
I guess I will stop here-----you asked !
OD
check ppf adjustment and all exhaust bolts
after the car is 5 + yrs old it may be wise to replace radiator hoses
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