Which order to do B-stock mods?
#1
Which order to do B-stock mods?
I did a search... didn't take too much time on it though. I have purchased wheels and tires.(thanks again ulllose & teamrx8) I already put in the K&N drop in filter. I plan on doing everything that I can to the car to get a "pretty good" B-Stock setup; exhaust, shocks, front sway bar, ect. Eventually I will get better wheels and v710's. My "logical" thinking says buy shocks next. Maybe get the car handling better first. Thanks in advance for your input.
#3
05-08 SCCA BS Natl Champ
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Originally Posted by pcimino
Get a good alignment. My factory alignment was something like front camber 0/0 and rear camber -2.2/-1.1. I forget the toe but that was squirelly too.
Then shocks
Front Swaybar is up in the air. 3 cars with 3 different bars within a tenth of a sec at natls. You can drill a hole in your stock bar to make it a bit stiffer, nice free mod.
Exhaust
light wheels
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As for the alignment, it depends on how soon you plan on getting new shocks. Alignment will have to be re-done after shock install. The questoin is how much of a gap set-up wise you need to take on to close in on the M3 that finished 1st in your FL state championship...
#5
I keep reading about drilling a hole in the stock swaybar... Where do you place the hole? Drill all the way through?
I think that the M3 was about 3 sec. ahead of me. That guy was a good driver. I believe that I can make up that time with tires and a little more seat time in the rx8. It is a little different than the miata.
I have yet to find a good alignment guy... If I do, how much camber/toe would you guys recomend. On the ms miata, I wasn't able to get the camber that I could with the '92 miata I owned previously. I think that on the miata the most I could get was 1.4 in front and 1.7 in the rear. Again I have yet to find a good alignment guy.
Good info guys thanks.
I think that the M3 was about 3 sec. ahead of me. That guy was a good driver. I believe that I can make up that time with tires and a little more seat time in the rx8. It is a little different than the miata.
I have yet to find a good alignment guy... If I do, how much camber/toe would you guys recomend. On the ms miata, I wasn't able to get the camber that I could with the '92 miata I owned previously. I think that on the miata the most I could get was 1.4 in front and 1.7 in the rear. Again I have yet to find a good alignment guy.
Good info guys thanks.
#7
Originally Posted by globi
If the inner front wheel lifts with the stock sway bar, the outer front wheel already caries all the weight it can. What difference could a stiffer sway bar make at this point?
#9
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Originally Posted by clyde
transistional response is kind of important
I have stock bar, no holes drilled.
My scratch time was only .092 off the fastest BS time on the south course this year (who had the Team RX-8 bar). My scratch time was also .002 off of Jasons fastest time (correct me if I'm wrong... drilled stock bar?)
Is a bigger bar worth .1? .002? Or could I drive better?
The latter is the better option IMHO, and is free. Do what you like, try different things. We have quite a few sweepers and some tight stuff here... the stiffer bar doesn't help much at all in those type courses.
--kC
Last edited by Imp; 11-18-2005 at 01:06 PM.
#11
05-08 SCCA BS Natl Champ
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Originally Posted by CRX Millennium
As for the alignment, it depends on how soon you plan on getting new shocks. Alignment will have to be re-done after shock install. The questoin is how much of a gap set-up wise you need to take on to close in on the M3 that finished 1st in your FL state championship...
#12
05-08 SCCA BS Natl Champ
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Originally Posted by whiterex
I keep reading about drilling a hole in the stock swaybar... Where do you place the hole? Drill all the way through?
I think that the M3 was about 3 sec. ahead of me. That guy was a good driver. I believe that I can make up that time with tires and a little more seat time in the rx8. It is a little different than the miata.
I have yet to find a good alignment guy... If I do, how much camber/toe would you guys recomend. On the ms miata, I wasn't able to get the camber that I could with the '92 miata I owned previously. I think that on the miata the most I could get was 1.4 in front and 1.7 in the rear. Again I have yet to find a good alignment guy.
Good info guys thanks.
I think that the M3 was about 3 sec. ahead of me. That guy was a good driver. I believe that I can make up that time with tires and a little more seat time in the rx8. It is a little different than the miata.
I have yet to find a good alignment guy... If I do, how much camber/toe would you guys recomend. On the ms miata, I wasn't able to get the camber that I could with the '92 miata I owned previously. I think that on the miata the most I could get was 1.4 in front and 1.7 in the rear. Again I have yet to find a good alignment guy.
Good info guys thanks.
Alingment I use max - camber front and rear. Zero toe and dont worry about caster.
#13
05-08 SCCA BS Natl Champ
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Originally Posted by Imp
Agreed. But like Jason said, there were top times running different bars/variants at natonials this year.
I have stock bar, no holes drilled.
My scratch time was only .092 off the fastest BS time on the south course this year (who had the Team RX-8 bar). My scratch time was also .002 off of Jasons fastest time (correct me if I'm wrong... drilled stock bar?)
Is a bigger bar worth .1? .002? Or could I drive better?
The latter is the better option IMHO, and is free. Do what you like, try different things. We have quite a few sweepers and some tight stuff here... the stiffer bar doesn't help much at all in those type courses.
--kC
I have stock bar, no holes drilled.
My scratch time was only .092 off the fastest BS time on the south course this year (who had the Team RX-8 bar). My scratch time was also .002 off of Jasons fastest time (correct me if I'm wrong... drilled stock bar?)
Is a bigger bar worth .1? .002? Or could I drive better?
The latter is the better option IMHO, and is free. Do what you like, try different things. We have quite a few sweepers and some tight stuff here... the stiffer bar doesn't help much at all in those type courses.
--kC
KC and Goeke on stock but Goeke with one adjustment hole drilled.
Only fast guy on the TeamRX8 bar was the ringer he brought in, Sharp.
Leaders from day one were on the Racing Beat bar... They kind of took a beating on the south course as that bar did not like all the sweepers.
Last edited by ULLLOSE; 11-18-2005 at 01:16 PM.
#14
05-08 SCCA BS Natl Champ
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Originally Posted by tuj
There have been fast drivers on the stock front sway and on stock shocks, so neither of those are really necessary to be competitive.
#15
Originally Posted by ULLLOSE
There have been fast guys on stock bars... No one was fast at natls on stock shocks. So I would not say they are unnecessary.
#16
05-08 SCCA BS Natl Champ
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Originally Posted by tuj
uh.... didn't you win a ProSolo on stock shocks dude?
Last edited by ULLLOSE; 11-18-2005 at 01:33 PM.
#17
Originally Posted by Imp
Agreed. But like Jason said, there were top times running different bars/variants at natonials this year.
I have stock bar, no holes drilled.
My scratch time was only .092 off the fastest BS time on the south course this year (who had the Team RX-8 bar). My scratch time was also .002 off of Jasons fastest time (correct me if I'm wrong... drilled stock bar?)
Is a bigger bar worth .1? .002? Or could I drive better?
The latter is the better option IMHO, and is free. Do what you like, try different things. We have quite a few sweepers and some tight stuff here... the stiffer bar doesn't help much at all in those type courses.
--kC
I have stock bar, no holes drilled.
My scratch time was only .092 off the fastest BS time on the south course this year (who had the Team RX-8 bar). My scratch time was also .002 off of Jasons fastest time (correct me if I'm wrong... drilled stock bar?)
Is a bigger bar worth .1? .002? Or could I drive better?
The latter is the better option IMHO, and is free. Do what you like, try different things. We have quite a few sweepers and some tight stuff here... the stiffer bar doesn't help much at all in those type courses.
--kC
I was just saying that even if the inside front lifts in some circumstances, it doesn't mean that a stiffer front bar won't help in other areas.
Beyond that, the driver is part of the setup too and that part has an influence on what other settings might work best as a total combination.
#18
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Originally Posted by Imp
Ahave quite a few sweepers and some tight stuff here... the stiffer bar doesn't help much at all in those type courses.
--kC
--kC
oh wow, I never realized you tried them all ... one thing I would advise the n00bs on is to beware being mislead by broad generalities
#20
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
oh wow, I never realized you tried them all ... one thing I would advise the n00bs on is to beware being mislead by broad generalities
(This would be a fair conclusion or would it not?)
#21
05-08 SCCA BS Natl Champ
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Originally Posted by globi
Could it be that kC dealt with understeering in these sweepers and therefore concluded that a stiffer sway bar in the front would not be of any help?
(This would be a fair conclusion or would it not?)
(This would be a fair conclusion or would it not?)
Keep in mind the swaybars and shocks at best are worth tenths of seconds. imho an alingment is worth more on a stock car. Tires are the one big improvement you can make besides the driver.
#23
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Originally Posted by globi
Could it be that kC dealt with understeering in these sweepers and therefore concluded that a stiffer sway bar in the front would not be of any help?
(This would be a fair conclusion or would it not?)
(This would be a fair conclusion or would it not?)
you've probably got a better grip on the situation than me I'll be quiet now
#24
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
oh wow, I never realized you tried them all ... one thing I would advise the n00bs on is to beware being mislead by broad generalities
Do what you like, try different things.
Have I tried everything out there? Nope. I've tried really big (RB) and stock. I like stock of the two.
I firmly believe anything bigger/stiffer than stock will induce more push than the stock bar in the sweepers. I don't have to 'try everything' to figure that one out. If you're getting push with the stock bar, any stiffer will not reduce that. Yes, a bigger bar will help in transitions. That's what a big bar does. But in sweepers (where more time is lost) I don't think it's worth it.
--kC
#25
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perhaps you just haven't found the settings to get both, if I put the OE bar on mine I'd be putting drifters to shame in every sweeper, we ran both back to back on a sweeper intensive course during the initial testing, I've actually stiffened it some more since Nationals and am still working to keep it under me
Some of my alignment and shock settings are quite different then what most people post here
Some of my alignment and shock settings are quite different then what most people post here