Which order to do B-stock mods?
12-02-2005, 01:29 PM
#26
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Ordered shocks today. Got the koni yellow sport. When I get them, I think that I will do the free swaybar mod as well. 
Can I put in the shocks "carefully" enough to not have to get another $90 alignment afterwords? Its not really the money, I just got the alignment a week ago.
Can I put in the shocks "carefully" enough to not have to get another $90 alignment afterwords? Its not really the money, I just got the alignment a week ago.
12-02-2005, 02:36 PM
#27
well IMO you need to drop the rearward lower rear control arm to get the rear struts in and out easily, which means loosening the rear camber bolt at a minimum, just mark the adjuster indicator position and relocate it, might be off a tad but nothing too serious
in the front unbolting the top control arm from the chassis tabs makes the front much easier to do too, you might get some misalignment there
just do it and see how it feels, worse case you have to get aligned, best case not
in the front unbolting the top control arm from the chassis tabs makes the front much easier to do too, you might get some misalignment there
just do it and see how it feels, worse case you have to get aligned, best case not
Last edited by TeamRX8; 12-02-2005 at 02:38 PM.
12-02-2005, 03:35 PM
#28
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I aggree on dropping the rear lower control arm. I did one side taking loose the upper arms and there was just to much prying, binding and skinned knuckles for my taste. If there is a special technique that I'm missing, please let me know.
As far as getting the alignment back is concerned, I use strings taped from the front of the front tire to the rear of the back tire. As long as you are zero to toe-out on the front and zero to toe-in on the rear this works effectively. Being off a little on camber is no big deal, but accurate toe makes a big difference. I also use the strings to adjust toe between runs at events. Note, this would not work on a car with different track widths, front and rear.
As far as getting the alignment back is concerned, I use strings taped from the front of the front tire to the rear of the back tire. As long as you are zero to toe-out on the front and zero to toe-in on the rear this works effectively. Being off a little on camber is no big deal, but accurate toe makes a big difference. I also use the strings to adjust toe between runs at events. Note, this would not work on a car with different track widths, front and rear.
12-02-2005, 03:46 PM
#29
On the front if you pull the upper arm instead of the lower your alignment should be ok... I think the rest of you guys are doing the rear wrong, way to much extra work to pull that other stuff off. I take nothing apart on the rear suspension. The rear springs are soft enough you dont need to compress the spring. I just drop the upper mount down to the point I can get at the top bolt on the shock. Take the top bolt off and drop the shock out, I leave the spring and mount in the car. To install I just put the new shock up into the car and use the floor jack to preload it enough I can get the bolt on by hand.
I figured out how to do it without taking the rear arms off so I could do it at the track with no special tools and without changing my alignment.
I figured out how to do it without taking the rear arms off so I could do it at the track with no special tools and without changing my alignment.
Last edited by ULLLOSE; 12-02-2005 at 04:17 PM.
12-02-2005, 04:39 PM
#30
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It drops far enough down to get at it like that? Sounds like a plan. 
Interesting. I was looking at the manual trying to see how they suggest... they want you to take the caliper off... but in doing so using their instructions, it doesn't look like it'll mess up the alignment either.
But if it drops down far enough without unbolting anything, just the strut itself... that's nice.
Interesting. I was looking at the manual trying to see how they suggest... they want you to take the caliper off... but in doing so using their instructions, it doesn't look like it'll mess up the alignment either.
But if it drops down far enough without unbolting anything, just the strut itself... that's nice.
12-02-2005, 04:42 PM
#31
Originally Posted by Imp
It drops far enough down to get at it like that? Sounds like a plan.
But if it drops down far enough without unbolting anything, just the strut itself... that's nice.
But if it drops down far enough without unbolting anything, just the strut itself... that's nice.
12-02-2005, 05:21 PM
#32
Originally Posted by ULLLOSE
I think the rest of you guys are doing the rear wrong, way to much extra work to pull that other stuff off. I take nothing apart on the rear suspension. The rear springs are soft enough you dont need to compress the spring. I just drop the upper mount down to the point I can get at the top bolt on the shock. Take the top bolt off and drop the shock out, I leave the spring and mount in the car. To install I just put the new shock up into the car and use the floor jack to preload it enough I can get the bolt on by hand.
I figured out how to do it without taking the rear arms off so I could do it at the track with no special tools and without changing my alignment.
I figured out how to do it without taking the rear arms off so I could do it at the track with no special tools and without changing my alignment.
I'd like to see you try that with a degassed hydraulic Koni
I had a b-tch of a time getting those together, and I have a professional wall mount strut spring compressor
sounds like a plan for a gas-charged shock though ....
12-02-2005, 05:57 PM
#33
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
I'd like to see you try that with a degassed hydraulic Koni
I had a b-tch of a time getting those together, and I have a professional wall mount strut spring compressor
sounds like a plan for a gas-charged shock though ....
I had a b-tch of a time getting those together, and I have a professional wall mount strut spring compressor
sounds like a plan for a gas-charged shock though ....
That sounds like a real timesaver.
12-03-2005, 11:30 PM
#37
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
well after more thought I'm confused, how do you get the nut on when the threaded shaft is way up out of reach at the top of the inaccessible shock tower?
12-04-2005, 01:15 AM
#38
Originally Posted by ULLLOSE
Drop the shock tower down to get to the top bolt. To install just leave the tower down enough to get to the top bolt. The key is to get the car high enough to get the shock in without taking any suspension parts off.
12-04-2005, 01:19 AM
#39
Originally Posted by dannobre
I don't know why you touch the lower link in the rear...I've had mine in/out 2-3 times and I just remove the rear top link?? That way no alignment problems.
those arm mounts have a lot of slop ... and I personally don't have an issue taking the lower link loose, I've only done it once though and just stumbled through it so I'll at least try the top arm the next time and see how it goes ..
12-04-2005, 12:03 PM
#41
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
well you said you had to jack up the suspension to compress the spring and you can't do that unless the shock mount is full installed into the shock tower, hmmm ...
Last edited by ULLLOSE; 12-04-2005 at 03:08 PM.
Natl Champ 
12-05-2005, 06:53 AM
#43
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Well, had an event yesterday. Everyone from the FL ST Championships was there except the M3. I finished 2nd behind a very fast porsche driven by Kevin Kipta. Teamrx8, I believe you may know who I'm talking about. I feel like I have a TON of bodyroll. I suppose the koni's will help with that a bit.
All in all the car felt good, I can see a definite need for some sort of front swaybar setup. If I were to drill the hole in the stock bar, I suppose that I would have to get adj. front endlinks, correct? If I used the stock ones, the swaybar will be constantly preloaded... If this is the case, when I put the konis on, I will drill the holes. I just need to find some endlinks...
All in all the car felt good, I can see a definite need for some sort of front swaybar setup. If I were to drill the hole in the stock bar, I suppose that I would have to get adj. front endlinks, correct? If I used the stock ones, the swaybar will be constantly preloaded... If this is the case, when I put the konis on, I will drill the holes. I just need to find some endlinks...
12-05-2005, 10:22 AM
#47
Originally Posted by whiterex
So the $50 RB enlinks will work fine, or just use stock.
JV
12-05-2005, 10:46 AM
#48
Even if you go with adjustable end links you only need one. There is no reason to put them on both sides. So find a place that will sell you one or spilt a set with someone.
For the most part it is a waste of money in stock class. Very few stock class cars, C5 vettes and a few others, can jack the weight and ride height around enough to need them. The only thing that changes the weight in the RX8 is how big the driver is. Even then why bother trying to get a small amount of preload out of the front when you cant touch the rear.
For the most part it is a waste of money in stock class. Very few stock class cars, C5 vettes and a few others, can jack the weight and ride height around enough to need them. The only thing that changes the weight in the RX8 is how big the driver is. Even then why bother trying to get a small amount of preload out of the front when you cant touch the rear.
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