Price out the cost of a decent B-Stock RX-8 set-up?
#1
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Price out the cost of a decent B-Stock RX-8 set-up?
I'm tossing around the idea of picking up an RX-8 in the next year or so. I currently autoX a D-Stock 2006 WRX. I know it's always cheaper to buy a used car already prepped for BS, but if I had to start with a clean slate, what will a decent BS set-up cost?
As it stands, the items I see myself needing at a minimum are:
2nd set of wheels
245/35/18 V710's
ots koni SA's
FSB
Are the RX-8 wheel studs strong or should they all be switched out to something stronger? Btw, what are the sizes of the stock swaybars on the RX-8? Is anything gained by using a larger FSB?
Thanks.
Chike
As it stands, the items I see myself needing at a minimum are:
2nd set of wheels
245/35/18 V710's
ots koni SA's
FSB
Are the RX-8 wheel studs strong or should they all be switched out to something stronger? Btw, what are the sizes of the stock swaybars on the RX-8? Is anything gained by using a larger FSB?
Thanks.
Chike
#2
Wheels = $400 for used oem, $1200 for 18.4lbs OZ Ultraleggera, $??? for custom build Kodiak, Jongbloed etc.
Tires = $1100 for Kumhos w/shipping.
Konis = $550 from DPE (last I checked)
FSB = Stock is fine, I drilled an extra hole each side to make it adjustable within a narrow range. Others (like Jason) run the MS bar, which is probably just about the same stiffness as a stock bar with both end links moved forward as much as possible. Matthew and I also experimented with the Whiteline adjustable, which I plan on putting back on the car soon...we only ran it with the 285 Hoosiers and I'm curious to see what it's like with the Kumhos.
Wheel studs are fine, just use a little anti seize to prevent galling. Also, when you get new wheels, get some decent lug nuts.
You could have less than $2000 in prep and have a Nationally competitive car, in summary.
Tires = $1100 for Kumhos w/shipping.
Konis = $550 from DPE (last I checked)
FSB = Stock is fine, I drilled an extra hole each side to make it adjustable within a narrow range. Others (like Jason) run the MS bar, which is probably just about the same stiffness as a stock bar with both end links moved forward as much as possible. Matthew and I also experimented with the Whiteline adjustable, which I plan on putting back on the car soon...we only ran it with the 285 Hoosiers and I'm curious to see what it's like with the Kumhos.
Wheel studs are fine, just use a little anti seize to prevent galling. Also, when you get new wheels, get some decent lug nuts.
You could have less than $2000 in prep and have a Nationally competitive car, in summary.
#3
My $0.02:
Wheels: http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda.../21-1051b.html ($289 x 4)
Sway Bar: http://progressauto.com/store/produc...roducts_id=382 ($162.35)
Wheels: http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda.../21-1051b.html ($289 x 4)
Sway Bar: http://progressauto.com/store/produc...roducts_id=382 ($162.35)
#4
My $0.02:
Wheels: http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda.../21-1051b.html ($289 x 4)
Sway Bar: http://progressauto.com/store/produc...roducts_id=382 ($162.35)
Wheels: http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda.../21-1051b.html ($289 x 4)
Sway Bar: http://progressauto.com/store/produc...roducts_id=382 ($162.35)
#5
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From: Charlottesville, VA
Thanks folks. I chatted with my wife a little more and she's all about me switching cars - she loves the RX-8!!!
Couple more questions:
1) Stock wheels are 18x8 correct? What's the stock offset? Also what do stock wheels weigh?
2) What are the sizes of the swaybars on the RX-8? How big is the MS bar that Isley runs?
Also, for those of you that autoX your cars regularly, how much oil do you typically need to add between oil changes? Is there model year that's the best to have for BS?
Couple more questions:
1) Stock wheels are 18x8 correct? What's the stock offset? Also what do stock wheels weigh?
2) What are the sizes of the swaybars on the RX-8? How big is the MS bar that Isley runs?
Also, for those of you that autoX your cars regularly, how much oil do you typically need to add between oil changes? Is there model year that's the best to have for BS?
#7
Tires will be your biggest and most common expense at roughly $1200 shipped, mounted and balanced......Wheels, shocks, swaybars and exhaust can be expensive but most of that money you'll get back if you take them off when you go to sell the car.
Alignment is also another expense to be considered......I would factor $200 for a good alignment even though it can be had for less.
Alignment is also another expense to be considered......I would factor $200 for a good alignment even though it can be had for less.
#8
I see Baggy has mellowed down considerably since the day of telling newbs to do search =)
All the questions OP posted can be found in this sub-forum. Let me throw my $.02 and say you can have the most expensive RX-8 setup, and still lag behind on the National-level. We have had many established/trophied Natl-level autocrossers piloting RX-8, but still coming up short of Isley. He's able to consistently drive the RX-8 fast, notwithstanding the condition of the tire/site.
Just do tire and you will win the regional-level if you are decent. Otherwise, you are in the long haul for National in a RX-8. Hope this advice saves you money.
All the questions OP posted can be found in this sub-forum. Let me throw my $.02 and say you can have the most expensive RX-8 setup, and still lag behind on the National-level. We have had many established/trophied Natl-level autocrossers piloting RX-8, but still coming up short of Isley. He's able to consistently drive the RX-8 fast, notwithstanding the condition of the tire/site.
Just do tire and you will win the regional-level if you are decent. Otherwise, you are in the long haul for National in a RX-8. Hope this advice saves you money.
#10
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I've been autocrossing for roughly 1.5yrs and did an Evo school this Spring. I'm still starting out in this sport, but I'm looking to gain experience driving a well-balanced rwd car. I considered a 350Z briefly, but putting tires on that thing is expensive. The RX-8 is much cheaper to buy r-comps for and is way more practical of a daily driver for a guy w/ a family such as myself.
I appreciate everyone's input.
I appreciate everyone's input.
Last edited by chiketkd; 07-20-2007 at 06:58 PM.
#11
As everyone else here has pointed out, competitive tires are roughly $1200 a set for the '8, but the car is relatively light with good camber curves, so it doesn't chew through tires as fast as something like a 3300-lb camber-limited sedan.
The stock wheel size is 18"x8", with a +50mm offset. OEM wheels weigh in about 22(?) lbs per wheel, iirc.
I couldn't tell you the front bar size off the top of my head, but the MS bar is only about 15% stiffer than stock. FWIW, Keith Casey's raw times last year at Nats would have put him in 3rd (if he hadn't coned every run on Day 2) in a car with the factory front bar.
Basically all you need to have a Nationally competitive RX-8 is a spare set of wheels, a set of OTS Konis, and a set of tires. And a good driver.
The stock wheel size is 18"x8", with a +50mm offset. OEM wheels weigh in about 22(?) lbs per wheel, iirc.
I couldn't tell you the front bar size off the top of my head, but the MS bar is only about 15% stiffer than stock. FWIW, Keith Casey's raw times last year at Nats would have put him in 3rd (if he hadn't coned every run on Day 2) in a car with the factory front bar.
Basically all you need to have a Nationally competitive RX-8 is a spare set of wheels, a set of OTS Konis, and a set of tires. And a good driver.
#12
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I couldn't tell you the front bar size off the top of my head, but the MS bar is only about 15% stiffer than stock. FWIW, Keith Casey's raw times last year at Nats would have put him in 3rd (if he hadn't coned every run on Day 2) in a car with the factory front bar.
Basically all you need to have a Nationally competitive RX-8 is a spare set of wheels, a set of OTS Konis, and a set of tires. And a good driver.
Basically all you need to have a Nationally competitive RX-8 is a spare set of wheels, a set of OTS Konis, and a set of tires. And a good driver.
Mazda typically uses pretty healthy swaybars, but I am interested in finding out how big the stock one is - I've tried multiple searches and turned up nothing.
#13
and the year before a bigger front bar would have won had GH Sharp not coned; blah-blah-blah, coulda-woulda-shoulda ... we've been down that road a million times, along with high rear camber vs low rear camber, etc. etc., bottom line is it really comes down to the driver which so far has been Ulllose
OE front bar is 27mm OD x 3.4mm wall thickness
OE front bar is 27mm OD x 3.4mm wall thickness
Last edited by TeamRX8; 07-20-2007 at 08:31 PM.
#15
#16
#17
WTF nobody told the newb to search.
I think everyone has covered it pretty well, less the couple of posters that don't have a clue what solo stock class is about or what comes stock on the RX8.
btw the Mazdaspeed bar I have is 27.2mm dia and 4mm wall, just a tiny bit stiffer than stock. Just drill an extra hole in the stock bar and you can get most of the way there. However after you dump and awd push monster you might like an RX8 with a Racing Beat front bar.
I would love to chat more but I need to get some sleep so I can make full use of my weekend at Mid-Ohio.
I think everyone has covered it pretty well, less the couple of posters that don't have a clue what solo stock class is about or what comes stock on the RX8.
btw the Mazdaspeed bar I have is 27.2mm dia and 4mm wall, just a tiny bit stiffer than stock. Just drill an extra hole in the stock bar and you can get most of the way there. However after you dump and awd push monster you might like an RX8 with a Racing Beat front bar.
I would love to chat more but I need to get some sleep so I can make full use of my weekend at Mid-Ohio.
#18
#20
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LOL! Thanks for your input Jason. My D-stock WRX is set-up quite loose with a good deal of toe out in the rear. I may try to co-drive with someone locally in the coming months who has one - then take my plans from there.
#21
(edit: I should have said "consistent is one of the keys", as ULLLLLLLLLLOSE also seems to be able to go "above and beyond" quick, as well, on certain days...like day one of this year's El Toro Pro...the point I was making is that he never seems to have an exceptionally bad day, unlike most of us!)
Seriously, if you want to run a RX8, I'd just find a used base model with low miles, year doesn't matter, get a set of Konis, a set of used oem wheels with V710's and an alignment and go run it...if you want to upgrade to lighter wheels, you can use the oem's for rain tires
Last edited by mwood; 07-21-2007 at 01:00 AM.
#22
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Seriously, if you want to run a RX8, I'd just find a used base model with low miles, year doesn't matter, get a set of Konis, a set of used oem wheels with V710's and an alignment and go run it...if you want to upgrade to lighter wheels, you can use the oem's for rain tires
I'm going to finish up this season with my WRX as I have a set of 245/40/17 Hoosiers that still have lots of life in them. I'll be switching cars in the winter and 2008 is when I plan to start running full-time in a new class. The RX-8 is definitely at the top of my list right now...
Btw, any idea what the max speed is in 2nd gear on 245/35/18 V710's when banging off the rev limiter?
#23
#24
BTW, to answer a couple of your earlier questions that no one else touched on:
I typically use 1-1.5 quarts between oil changes. I won't open up the whole dino vs. synthetic debate except to say this - I'm a die hard Mobil 1 fan (and a powertrain design engineer by trade), but I use dino oil in my RX-8, as I have in every rotary I've ever owned. My overall oil cost at 2500 mile change intervals with Castrol GTX in the RX-8 is roughly the same as it is using Mobil 1 with 5000 mile change intervals in my wife's CR-V.
Regarding which model you want - any 6-speed RX-8 will already come standard with the limited slip, the 18" wheels, and the suspension package you want. They are all the same. Avoid sunroof cars unless you're a midget. They rob a lot of headroom, and the RX-8 doesn't have a lot of headroom to begin with.
I'd look for a Base (renamed the Sport for '07) model, or a Sport (renamed the "Performance Package" for '07). The Base gives you everything you need, but the Sport adds (defeatable) traction control, HIDs, and fog lights, which make the car a nicer daily driver imho. Contrary to what some people may suggest (ahem, Baggy ), the Sport Package probably adds less than fifteen total pounds to the vehicle.
I typically use 1-1.5 quarts between oil changes. I won't open up the whole dino vs. synthetic debate except to say this - I'm a die hard Mobil 1 fan (and a powertrain design engineer by trade), but I use dino oil in my RX-8, as I have in every rotary I've ever owned. My overall oil cost at 2500 mile change intervals with Castrol GTX in the RX-8 is roughly the same as it is using Mobil 1 with 5000 mile change intervals in my wife's CR-V.
Regarding which model you want - any 6-speed RX-8 will already come standard with the limited slip, the 18" wheels, and the suspension package you want. They are all the same. Avoid sunroof cars unless you're a midget. They rob a lot of headroom, and the RX-8 doesn't have a lot of headroom to begin with.
I'd look for a Base (renamed the Sport for '07) model, or a Sport (renamed the "Performance Package" for '07). The Base gives you everything you need, but the Sport adds (defeatable) traction control, HIDs, and fog lights, which make the car a nicer daily driver imho. Contrary to what some people may suggest (ahem, Baggy ), the Sport Package probably adds less than fifteen total pounds to the vehicle.
#25
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BTW, to answer a couple of your earlier questions that no one else touched on:
I typically use 1-1.5 quarts between oil changes. I won't open up the whole dino vs. synthetic debate except to say this - I'm a die hard Mobil 1 fan (and a powertrain design engineer by trade), but I use dino oil in my RX-8, as I have in every rotary I've ever owned. My overall oil cost at 2500 mile change intervals with Castrol GTX in the RX-8 is roughly the same as it is using Mobil 1 with 5000 mile change intervals in my wife's CR-V.
Regarding which model you want - any 6-speed RX-8 will already come standard with the limited slip, the 18" wheels, and the suspension package you want. They are all the same. Avoid sunroof cars unless you're a midget. They rob a lot of headroom, and the RX-8 doesn't have a lot of headroom to begin with.
I'd look for a Base (renamed the Sport for '07) model, or a Sport (renamed the "Performance Package" for '07). The Base gives you everything you need, but the Sport adds (defeatable) traction control, HIDs, and fog lights, which make the car a nicer daily driver imho. Contrary to what some people may suggest (ahem, Baggy ), the Sport Package probably adds less than fifteen total pounds to the vehicle.
I typically use 1-1.5 quarts between oil changes. I won't open up the whole dino vs. synthetic debate except to say this - I'm a die hard Mobil 1 fan (and a powertrain design engineer by trade), but I use dino oil in my RX-8, as I have in every rotary I've ever owned. My overall oil cost at 2500 mile change intervals with Castrol GTX in the RX-8 is roughly the same as it is using Mobil 1 with 5000 mile change intervals in my wife's CR-V.
Regarding which model you want - any 6-speed RX-8 will already come standard with the limited slip, the 18" wheels, and the suspension package you want. They are all the same. Avoid sunroof cars unless you're a midget. They rob a lot of headroom, and the RX-8 doesn't have a lot of headroom to begin with.
I'd look for a Base (renamed the Sport for '07) model, or a Sport (renamed the "Performance Package" for '07). The Base gives you everything you need, but the Sport adds (defeatable) traction control, HIDs, and fog lights, which make the car a nicer daily driver imho. Contrary to what some people may suggest (ahem, Baggy ), the Sport Package probably adds less than fifteen total pounds to the vehicle.