chiketkd

iTrader: (5)

I'm tossing around the idea of picking up an RX-8 in the next year or so. I currently autoX a D-Stock 2006 WRX. I know it's always cheaper to buy a used car already prepped for BS, but if I had to start with a clean slate, what will a decent BS set-up cost?

As it stands, the items I see myself needing at a minimum are:

2nd set of wheels
245/35/18 V710's
ots koni SA's
FSB

Are the RX-8 wheel studs strong or should they all be switched out to something stronger? Btw, what are the sizes of the stock swaybars on the RX-8? Is anything gained by using a larger FSB?

Thanks.

Chike

mwood

Wheels = $400 for used oem, $1200 for 18.4lbs OZ Ultraleggera, $??? for custom build Kodiak, Jongbloed etc.

Tires = $1100 for Kumhos w/shipping.

Konis = $550 from DPE (last I checked)

FSB = Stock is fine, I drilled an extra hole each side to make it adjustable within a narrow range. Others (like Jason) run the MS bar, which is probably just about the same stiffness as a stock bar with both end links moved forward as much as possible. Matthew and I also experimented with the Whiteline adjustable, which I plan on putting back on the car soon...we only ran it with the 285 Hoosiers and I'm curious to see what it's like with the Kumhos.

Wheel studs are fine, just use a little anti seize to prevent galling. Also, when you get new wheels, get some decent lug nuts.

You could have less than $2000 in prep and have a Nationally competitive car, in summary.

kinchu007

iTrader: (1)

My $0.02:

Wheels: http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda.../21-1051b.html ($289 x 4)

Sway Bar: http://progressauto.com/store/produc...roducts_id=382 ($162.35)

altiain

iTrader: (3)

The OP mentioned a B Stock setup, which means wheels must be OEM diameter and width, with offset within +/- .25" of OEM. The wheels you linked to aren't B Stock legal.

chiketkd

iTrader: (5)

Thanks folks. I chatted with my wife a little more and she's all about me switching cars - she loves the RX-8!!!

Couple more questions:

1) Stock wheels are 18x8 correct? What's the stock offset? Also what do stock wheels weigh?
2) What are the sizes of the swaybars on the RX-8? How big is the MS bar that Isley runs?

Also, for those of you that autoX your cars regularly, how much oil do you typically need to add between oil changes? Is there model year that's the best to have for BS?

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Muffler delete - free
FSB - $250
Koni SAs - $550
Used OE wheels w/Kumho V710s - $1600
Driving well enough to beat the big dogs - priceless

Cooper47

Tires will be your biggest and most common expense at roughly $1200 shipped, mounted and balanced......Wheels, shocks, swaybars and exhaust can be expensive but most of that money you'll get back if you take them off when you go to sell the car.

Alignment is also another expense to be considered......I would factor $200 for a good alignment even though it can be had for less.

CRX Millennium

iTrader: (1)

I see Baggy has mellowed down considerably since the day of telling newbs to do search =)

All the questions OP posted can be found in this sub-forum. Let me throw my $.02 and say you can have the most expensive RX-8 setup, and still lag behind on the National-level. We have had many established/trophied Natl-level autocrossers piloting RX-8, but still coming up short of Isley. He's able to consistently drive the RX-8 fast, notwithstanding the condition of the tire/site.

Just do tire and you will win the regional-level if you are decent. Otherwise, you are in the long haul for National in a RX-8. Hope this advice saves you money.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

what? I thought he did search. Please tell me if he didn't ...

chiketkd

iTrader: (5)

I've been autocrossing for roughly 1.5yrs and did an Evo school this Spring. I'm still starting out in this sport, but I'm looking to gain experience driving a well-balanced rwd car. I considered a 350Z briefly, but putting tires on that thing is expensive. The RX-8 is much cheaper to buy r-comps for and is way more practical of a daily driver for a guy w/ a family such as myself.

I appreciate everyone's input.

altiain

iTrader: (3)

As everyone else here has pointed out, competitive tires are roughly $1200 a set for the '8, but the car is relatively light with good camber curves, so it doesn't chew through tires as fast as something like a 3300-lb camber-limited sedan.

The stock wheel size is 18"x8", with a +50mm offset. OEM wheels weigh in about 22(?) lbs per wheel, iirc.

I couldn't tell you the front bar size off the top of my head, but the MS bar is only about 15% stiffer than stock. FWIW, Keith Casey's raw times last year at Nats would have put him in 3rd (if he hadn't coned every run on Day 2) in a car with the factory front bar.

Basically all you need to have a Nationally competitive RX-8 is a spare set of wheels, a set of OTS Konis, and a set of tires. And a good driver.

chiketkd

iTrader: (5)

Many thanks Iain. I know KC pretty well on-line as we both hang out on NASIOC quite a bit - I've sent him an e-mail to get his input on set-up but he's in upstate NY right now checking in for the Finger Lakes Pro Solo.

Mazda typically uses pretty healthy swaybars, but I am interested in finding out how big the stock one is - I've tried multiple searches and turned up nothing.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

and the year before a bigger front bar would have won had GH Sharp not coned; blah-blah-blah, coulda-woulda-shoulda ... we've been down that road a million times, along with high rear camber vs low rear camber, etc. etc., bottom line is it really comes down to the driver which so far has been Ulllose

OE front bar is 27mm OD x 3.4mm wall thickness

chiketkd

iTrader: (5)

Perfect. Thanks.

kinchu007

iTrader: (1)

Show you how much I know about B-Stock! Thanks for correcting.

Razz1

Are you sure about that?

I thought they were 18x 8x 45mm offset

ULLLOSE

iTrader: (1)

WTF nobody told the newb to search.

I think everyone has covered it pretty well, less the couple of posters that don't have a clue what solo stock class is about or what comes stock on the RX8.

btw the Mazdaspeed bar I have is 27.2mm dia and 4mm wall, just a tiny bit stiffer than stock. Just drill an extra hole in the stock bar and you can get most of the way there. However after you dump and awd push monster you might like an RX8 with a Racing Beat front bar.

I would love to chat more but I need to get some sleep so I can make full use of my weekend at Mid-Ohio.

Miatamoto

Nope, Altiain is right, it's 50 mm.

Just try to find your setup used. I bought used shocks, exhaust, wheels and a drop in K&N. The one thing that I bought new is tires.

chiketkd

iTrader: (5)

One last question folks - with 245/35/18 V710's, what's the max speed you're able to reach in 2nd gear?

chiketkd

iTrader: (5)

LOL! Thanks for your input Jason. My D-stock WRX is set-up quite loose with a good deal of toe out in the rear. I may try to co-drive with someone locally in the coming months who has one - then take my plans from there.

mwood

Yep, consistent is the key to Jason being the man...even mid packers have been able to get by him on any given day, but not when it counts...
(edit: I should have said "consistent is one of the keys", as ULLLLLLLLLLOSE also seems to be able to go "above and beyond" quick, as well, on certain days...like day one of this year's El Toro Pro...the point I was making is that he never seems to have an exceptionally bad day, unlike most of us!)

Seriously, if you want to run a RX8, I'd just find a used base model with low miles, year doesn't matter, get a set of Konis, a set of used oem wheels with V710's and an alignment and go run it...if you want to upgrade to lighter wheels, you can use the oem's for rain tires

chiketkd

iTrader: (5)

Thanks. I'm thinking new at the moment unless I come across a sweet deal for a used RX-8 that's B-stock prepped within a reasonable driving distance of central VA. Looks like some new '07 models can be had for 22.7K in my area.

I'm going to finish up this season with my WRX as I have a set of 245/40/17 Hoosiers that still have lots of life in them. I'll be switching cars in the winter and 2008 is when I plan to start running full-time in a new class. The RX-8 is definitely at the top of my list right now...

Btw, any idea what the max speed is in 2nd gear on 245/35/18 V710's when banging off the rev limiter?

ULLLOSE

iTrader: (1)

maxQdata says 62.7 mph, 62 on a radar gun, with the 245-35-18 VS 64ish with stock.

altiain

iTrader: (3)

BTW, to answer a couple of your earlier questions that no one else touched on:

I typically use 1-1.5 quarts between oil changes. I won't open up the whole dino vs. synthetic debate except to say this - I'm a die hard Mobil 1 fan (and a powertrain design engineer by trade), but I use dino oil in my RX-8, as I have in every rotary I've ever owned. My overall oil cost at 2500 mile change intervals with Castrol GTX in the RX-8 is roughly the same as it is using Mobil 1 with 5000 mile change intervals in my wife's CR-V.

Regarding which model you want - any 6-speed RX-8 will already come standard with the limited slip, the 18" wheels, and the suspension package you want. They are all the same. Avoid sunroof cars unless you're a midget. They rob a lot of headroom, and the RX-8 doesn't have a lot of headroom to begin with.

I'd look for a Base (renamed the Sport for '07) model, or a Sport (renamed the "Performance Package" for '07). The Base gives you everything you need, but the Sport adds (defeatable) traction control, HIDs, and fog lights, which make the car a nicer daily driver imho. Contrary to what some people may suggest (ahem, Baggy ), the Sport Package probably adds less than fifteen total pounds to the vehicle.

chiketkd

iTrader: (5)

Just what I was looking for - thanks Jason.Great info - I personally will be keeping my eye out for a base Sport model...but the "performance package" does add some very nice tid bits.