Price out the cost of a decent B-Stock RX-8 set-up?
#51
I've read some older threads that imply that the DSC is turned off by holding the button for 7+ seconds. Has that been confirmed to be the fastest mode by solo drivers? (I'm assuming it is, otherwise the base wouldn't be the preferred trim.)
#52
Yes. Drive the car yourself with the stability control on and the answer will be obvious.
#53
Regarding weight, we weighed Jason's '05 Base (the 2-time reigning Nat Champ car) in Houston back-to-back on the same scales against my '04 Sport. My car came up 5lbs heavier. Jason had a touch more fuel, but even factoring that in I don't think that the Sport Package adds anything more than 15 pounds at the most. To me, that 15 pounds is well worth the extra equipment in a daily driven car. Your mileage may vary.
#54
Wheels = $400 for used oem, $1200 for 18.4lbs OZ Ultraleggera, $??? for custom build Kodiak, Jongbloed etc.
Tires = $1100 for Kumhos w/shipping.
Konis = $550 from DPE (last I checked)
FSB = Stock is fine, I drilled an extra hole each side to make it adjustable within a narrow range. Others (like Jason) run the MS bar, which is probably just about the same stiffness as a stock bar with both end links moved forward as much as possible. Matthew and I also experimented with the Whiteline adjustable, which I plan on putting back on the car soon...we only ran it with the 285 Hoosiers and I'm curious to see what it's like with the Kumhos.
Wheel studs are fine, just use a little anti seize to prevent galling. Also, when you get new wheels, get some decent lug nuts.
You could have less than $2000 in prep and have a Nationally competitive car, in summary.
Tires = $1100 for Kumhos w/shipping.
Konis = $550 from DPE (last I checked)
FSB = Stock is fine, I drilled an extra hole each side to make it adjustable within a narrow range. Others (like Jason) run the MS bar, which is probably just about the same stiffness as a stock bar with both end links moved forward as much as possible. Matthew and I also experimented with the Whiteline adjustable, which I plan on putting back on the car soon...we only ran it with the 285 Hoosiers and I'm curious to see what it's like with the Kumhos.
Wheel studs are fine, just use a little anti seize to prevent galling. Also, when you get new wheels, get some decent lug nuts.
You could have less than $2000 in prep and have a Nationally competitive car, in summary.
I was really interested in the how you drilled the FSB. You woudn't have any pics would you?
#55
wankel? what's that?
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man!
you guys have a whole lot of info here. Since I am completely new to the whole game here and i'd like to autoX mi RX8 so now here is my question :
I have a bone stock RX8
Any mods or preparation that I should do before doing autoX?
What class my RX8 can classify being completely stock?
you guys have a whole lot of info here. Since I am completely new to the whole game here and i'd like to autoX mi RX8 so now here is my question :
I have a bone stock RX8
Any mods or preparation that I should do before doing autoX?
What class my RX8 can classify being completely stock?
#56
man!
you guys have a whole lot of info here. Since I am completely new to the whole game here and i'd like to autoX mi RX8 so now here is my question :
I have a bone stock RX8
Any mods or preparation that I should do before doing autoX?
What class my RX8 can classify being completely stock?
you guys have a whole lot of info here. Since I am completely new to the whole game here and i'd like to autoX mi RX8 so now here is my question :
I have a bone stock RX8
Any mods or preparation that I should do before doing autoX?
What class my RX8 can classify being completely stock?
I think it's all pretty much covered in this thread...but, completely stock or prepared (shocks, DOT R tires, etc.) for stock class, you still run in B stock with SCCA. Your region may have a street tire class, in which case you would run against other stock class cars (if running your normal street tires) using an index to "handicap" according to potential performance, if that makes sense.
In any case, there's really not much needed to go autocross...make sure the tires have air, remove all loose stuff from the trunk and interior, bring your helmet or borrow one on site, and go have fun.
If you are up for some prep, I'd suggest first doing a performance alignment, starting with bumping up negative camber in front and working from there...how much is something that you migh want to compromise on, because once you start getting over -1.2 or so, it will impact tire wear on the street. But, the benefit in terms of having fun autocrossing is well worth having to flip the tires on the rim, side to side, every 5-6000 miles...you also won't grind the outer sidewalls while autocrossing, so it's probably a wash. Set rear camber a couple tenths more negative than front and keep your toe at effective zero front and rear...that may not be the optimal autocross set up, but toe out is what will kill tires, much faster than the -1.2 to -1.7 front camber value most stock RX8's are getting.
Next step is finding a set of rims and getting some dedicated autocross tires...at which point you might as well throw the $500-600 for a set of SA Konis...
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