Project/track car, year and trim suggestions
#1
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Project/track car, year and trim suggestions
I gotta 10k budget and want a full blown project/track car. I want Pettit to supercharge and tune, not included in the budget. Looking for suggestions on a year and trim RX-8.
#2
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$10k will buy a pretty clean 04-06 base model without sunroof, but depending on how many miles you find to be acceptable on the engine/chassis, you probably won't have much of anything left in your budget for other essentials. I know I wouldn't want something with 100k miles on it before throwing lots more money on it for a track project.
Without knowing your situation, I would say to either enjoy your current R3 for casual HPDE events or use the $10k towards a Spec Miata or something already prepared as a safe track car.
Without knowing your situation, I would say to either enjoy your current R3 for casual HPDE events or use the $10k towards a Spec Miata or something already prepared as a safe track car.
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^ The 10k is for car purchase only. I intend to spend more for mods including supercharging at Pettit racing. My concern is suspension... which model gets me closest with the least amount of mods?
Edit: I do plan on throwing a new motor at it.
Edit: I do plan on throwing a new motor at it.
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All of the 6-speed models have the "Sport" suspension. Whether they are the Bilsteins or standard Sport package shocks isn't going to make a major difference. I would imagine a so called full blown track car would have some sort of adjustable shocks and ride height adjustment capabilities, which you have to go aftermarket for regardless.
#8
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Buying a car with mods you want will save you a lot of money. You can get a lot of good used parts which will help your budget a lot.
Here is a $20K example https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8s-sale-wanted-43/rx-8-koni-challenge-race-car-221441/
I would forget about the FI until after you have done everything else on the car. Adding FI makes things more complicated and expensive.
For suspension, I would plan on buying a quality coilover or custom valved struts and custom rate springs. Figure $1500-$2K. Less if you cna find a good used set.
Keep your eyes open for used progress tech sway bars. $200-$300.
A car with a blown motor for $5-6k is a good idea. Putting in a fresh motor is a good idea and you can put in a fresh clutch and flywheel while your at it.
Here is a $20K example https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8s-sale-wanted-43/rx-8-koni-challenge-race-car-221441/
I would forget about the FI until after you have done everything else on the car. Adding FI makes things more complicated and expensive.
For suspension, I would plan on buying a quality coilover or custom valved struts and custom rate springs. Figure $1500-$2K. Less if you cna find a good used set.
Keep your eyes open for used progress tech sway bars. $200-$300.
A car with a blown motor for $5-6k is a good idea. Putting in a fresh motor is a good idea and you can put in a fresh clutch and flywheel while your at it.
Last edited by Highway8; 08-23-2011 at 04:58 PM.
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just to confirm - there are no suspension revisions between Series1 & Series2...?
At any rate his current budget is a Series1 car, but... Oh and hold off on the SC until you get some track miles under your belt or if you've got competition of some form being your end goal. Its easier to modify up to a race class than it is to de-mod I feel.
At any rate his current budget is a Series1 car, but... Oh and hold off on the SC until you get some track miles under your belt or if you've got competition of some form being your end goal. Its easier to modify up to a race class than it is to de-mod I feel.
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#13
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Suspension
I would suggest an R1 coil-over kit from Eibach. It is height adjustable, and rebound adjustable through internal by-passing. Springs rates and valving can be changed upon request. Plus they will run you about 2300 for a kit which includes front and rear shocks and springs which is entirely worth it
Last edited by Rei-teki; 09-26-2011 at 11:36 PM.
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Just get an early model without sunroof if possible. Also, I THINK that you can even get some that don't have stability control. That is a plus - it's not too hard to eliminate but can still cause some gremlins.
But overall you just need a straight chassis. I got mine as a "non runner" for $4000 at an auction. Turned out the engine was ok (had just sat too long) and I got luck with that. But even with a blown motor it would be a good deal especially if you're planning to build the motor anyway.
But overall you just need a straight chassis. I got mine as a "non runner" for $4000 at an auction. Turned out the engine was ok (had just sat too long) and I got luck with that. But even with a blown motor it would be a good deal especially if you're planning to build the motor anyway.
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