This is a long shot, but my engine recently let go and released a ton of copper into my oil system. The engine builder is recommending replacing the oil coolers because they might be full of copper. My thought is that the oil filter will catch any copper that comes out before it enters the engine bearings, but to be safe I am investigating cleaning or replacing them.


I could try to clean them, but I can't know for sure if I get the copper out of them. the fins are also a little beat up over time (despite straightening them multiple times).


With used, you don't know what you're getting and I don't want to risk the new engine to used oil coolers (could be full of gunk, have leaks, etc).


I also need new oil cooler lines as mine are heavily corroded...


Tally up a pair of OEM oil coolers and a racing beat line kit, and I'm looking at over $1,300 even with mazdaspeed discounts.


RX8 Performance has an oil cooler kit that comes with two coolers in stock locations, lines, and a thermostat for $900. it's pricey, but it'd be cheaper than stock.


Has anyone here used this kit to be able to comment on quality/fitment, oil temperatures, reliability? Or maybe folks have some general recommendations?


Performance Oil Cooler Kit by RX-8 Performance | RX8Performance.com


EDIT: was able to dig up one review. Didn't really comment on how well they seemed to work.
https://www.rx8club.com/good-guy-bad...rmance-247701/

 

If it compares to the poor quality of rx8performance stuff I have seen first hand (oil pan, rotary canisters, oil cooler fan kit,etc) then I would stray away, oil coolers are important. You could get a local hydraulic hose shop to make you quality tested hoses for $200.00 and then you can get quality(setrab, Long, BEHR, Fluidyne, etc) coolers on Ebay, etc. all day long.

I got my BEHR cooler brand new on Amazon for $150.00 IIRC, it's for an S class Merc.



I also had a large front mount single Fludiyne unit when I was NA. But with this setup I can't get oil temps above 215F even if I try.

 

I am happy with my RX8 Performance parts. Radiator, fan kit, oil pan and oil lines were all top notch. Scott is a great guy, always trying to help his customers. Give him a call and talk to him.

 

Does your car even run?

 

Also Huffle, I have used Parker brand -10AN hydraulic hose and it is super durable. But if you care about aesthetics (you don't see oil cooler lines though really) I currently use soft braided Fragola -10AN hose and both are very flexible and much easier to deal with than SS hose which can be abrasive on other components.

You don't really need the Oiteker clamps with the push lock hose and fittings but the clamps do up the pressure rating.

This is Fragola



This is "rubber" Parker push lock.

 

Why not just have your stock oil coolers professional cleaned/rebuilt? That's less expensive and I feel that unless you really go with a top quality cooler with a very good well ducted installation (not easy) you can't beat the stock oil coolers. Google oil cooler rebuilders and you should find some stuff. I've used some place in Texas several times over the years and they're good, fast and cheap. Can't remember their name at the moment though... hahaha... but even the most beat up coolers come back from them looking new.

 

Yeah the stock coolers are very good, unless you are highly modified or tracking oil cooler upgrades are not really needed. And you can find lines used for decent prices, here in Texas they don't rust. I am sure I have some sets laying around.

 

Awesome info 9K, hopefully other folks interested in custom setups will find this thread!! Your pictures are great. could i use that hose to make my own lines for the OEM oil coolers?

 

wow. i will look into this and cost out against the $850 it would be for stockers with the mazdaspeed discount. thanks for the tip.

EDIT: Here's an example from the RX7 guys:
http://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generatio...s-info-382612/

 

Yes, you can buy -AN adapters that screw right into the coolers and engine. Ther are a few different hose types but I like push lock technology. You can do it by hand but it's tough so having the right tools to cut the hose and press the hose on the fittings helps. We use this type of hose on everything so it was worth the investment for us local guys. And it's rated for way above anything a rotary can throw at it.

Series 8000 Push-Lok General Purpose Hose | Fragola Performance Systems

 

I would NEVER use push lock hoses on oil lines....

I have seen too many of them blow off at the track with long heat soak temperatures....it is not worth the risk

The video of the guy putting them on with a heat gun is exactly why I wouldn't do it....heat makes the hoses soft...and they tend to fail. They say they are good to higher than the pressure expected from the system...but never the less they seem to fail on oil lines way to regularly to use them reliably

The nylon braided hose is nice to work with...it is a lot easier to build hoses than the SS braid....but when you want Max abrasion resistance and burst pressure the SS is the way to go.

 

Well I know guys who have been using them for many years without issue and I have had them on my car for years and never had any leaks or issues. The Parker push lok stuff I use is commercial grade stuff and used on lot's of commercial grade heavy equipment. The max pressure these will see on an RX-8 is 120psi for brief periods and that is if you have oil mods, stock will be less than 100psi. I heard about the Fragola stuff from local drag guys who have used it for years without an issue and I have yet to see or hear of a failure myself.

And installing the hose fttings manually using heat is fine as long as you are careful, many do it that way. I didn't use heat before I had the tools, I just sacked up an pushed them on with a bit of lube on the fittings. It is important to use the same brand fittings and hose though. But I do have a few different brands of fittings on mine with no issues.

 

And of course Russel, Fragola, etc all sell screw together type fittings and braided hose as well, for Fragola it's the 3000 series stuff.

http://fragolaperformancesystems.com...ce-catalog.pdf

 

Track vs street .... Totally different game .

 

For the difference in price I just don't see the point. Being easier to build hoses is a poor reason to use something that could fail

On a street car the oil pressure at startup can be much higher than you think. The stock bypass has a hard time keeping up when the oil is thick...I have seen oil pressures higher than 120PSI.

And unless you can buy fittings wholesale you will get a rude shock at the price

 

Do track cars have 350psi of oil pressure at over 300F? And again I heard of this stuff from track guys, the Fragola stuff is not just run of the mill hose and fittings. I have never heard of a push lock hose coming off a fitting and the fittings are just normal AN fittings. Once you have experience using them and seeing how hard it is to get old hose off of fittings you would see why and all the big names sell them, they are pretty popular.

But SS line is a PIA to work with, I have installed a couple of RB oil lines and they are a PIA to get situated. Building them sucks as well.

As for price, all AN/JIC fittings are pretty expensive and the tooling is expensive. And we just use Fragola, the Russel stuff is nice as well as Earl's

 

If you're looking to stick to stock I would go with replacing your lines (I have a set I don't need actually) and have the stock coolers professionally cleaned.

If you're looking to do some cooling system mods go with a single large cooler stacked with the radiator/AC condenser. It simplifies the system too, stock the first cooler in the series is doing significantly more cooling than the second one, is not bad it just could be better.

Personally I like JIC fittings because AN is a pain, but unless you're seriously amping up your pressure you'll be fine with push lock stuff. Keep in mind that a local hydraulics shop can make any lines for you cheaper than you can DIY them.

 

This!
My buddy works for Thompson Tractor and I had oil feed and drain lines made there. Cheap and can withstand pretty much any pressure I could ever throw at them.

 

For reference, American Cooler in Arlington TX will clean, restore, and paint oil coolers for $125 each. Mine have been sent out.

 

Thanks Chris, glad to hear your project is progressing along and look forward to the end results! With your component selections it should make some really nice numbers and look great doing it

Says the guy with a 500rwhp RX8 and many, many years of track days. I feel you, standing trackside for two hours waiting for the cleanup of another cars oil down through a high speed corner makes for a long afternoon.

QFT...driving a car 2 miles to work and 2 miles back is one thing. Hammering on it for lap after lap after lap while pulling high g-loads through corners exposes a whole different side of whats required to build a reliable fast RX-8. You've done both Brett, thanks for pointing that out.

 

Yep, I would do this. I actually looked into it when I had my engine rebuilt, but given that there was not much metal in my oil, decided that the approach outlined in the "ENGINE OIL FLUSHING PROCEDURE" TSB was good enough for me (See https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...4/#post3389925)

 

OK, just saw this, so you can ignore my previous post :-)
Good to know, I may well do that next time.

 

American Cooler turnaround was reasonable. it was $27 return shipping + $250 for the cleaning.

 

I have this particular kit on my track car and so far I'm happy with it.