How much damage will one or two HPDE events do to the stock tires? What about a handful of autox events?

I'm wondering if I should just wear out my stock tires this upcoming season and get new street/track tires when needed, or if I should get a dedicated set of track tires (inexpensive ones) and wear those out instead. Any thoughts?

 

i would get a set of track tires and rims. so when i join any of these events, i can put the racing set on. when i am driving it daily, i can have cheap and wear resistant tires.
this was my original plan for this summer. however, i ran out of money for new wheels. lol.

 

Really depends on the track and how you drive. I got 4 track events, 3 autocrosses and 20K on my RE040s. The track was Road Atlanta which is easy on tires. I also let the car rotate rather than under steer around a corner which can chew up the front tires. You also need to be conscious of the tires getting too hot and chunking. Some tracks have a very abrasive surface (like Roebling Road) and can really eat into a set of tires over the course of a weekend.

If you get a set of track tires, it is counter intuitive to get inexpensive ones. The track is where you want performance. I would do the opposite and get a mid priced street tire and go for the gusto for a track tire.

 

ok, thanks for the info. Where you happy enough with the performance of the RE040s?

I just didn't want to discover the stock tires wore unusually fast for some reason, and blow through them in a couple of events-- then be left having to buy new street AND new track tires ;-). If I'm going to have to buy track tires the first season I'd rather do it sooner than later so I don't have to replace my street tires as well.

And by inexpensive I don't necessarily mean bottom barrel, just something cheaper than the $240 V710s :-) ($200 if they are 17's)

 

You may find Toyo RA-1 to be better suited and longer-lasting for non-competition track driving as compared to V710. RA-1 is a Spec tire for endurance racing. Your other alternative is Falken New Azenis RT-615, sticky and cheap. Both tires can be driven to and from the event without problems, ie: burning valuable tread or heat-cycle issue.

 

Not experience the RT615 before but sounds good.

How much is the R spec tyre in US compare with road tyres

Here in Australia - RE55S Bridgestones are $380 each, RE040 is $480, and Michellin Pilot sport is $560 each.

It is a no brainer for me and the R spec lasts just as long as RE040 and they are 4 sec faster!

 

I ran a track day, 10 ish autox events and 15k hard street miles on my oem michelin pilot sports. They still probably have 4-5/32s of treadwear left and no chunking whatsoever.

I was pretty happy with thier performance on the track. I was getting point bys from quite a few well-prepped r-compound shod cars. As for autox, you won't be competitive without Rs, but you will have fun.

Also, if you're new to HPDE, go out on street rubber your first few times, I think its a good idea to learn how the car behaves at the limit with more compliant tires.

 

My Potenza RE040 did the job, 7 track days, (CA Speedway, Laguna Seca, etc.) 21,000 miles, still street legal, but you’re on your own at the track. Greasy and slippery on summer track days, and bumpy roads make you want to curse. Noise, I have more complaints about the aerodynamic noises of the RX-8 above 70mph than I do the tires. Upgrades are generally cost vs. performance vs. tire life. Your mileage may vary.

 

Holy resurrected threads, there is new life!
Don’t be the dumb/lazy *** that I was at the track.
Potenza RE040 bought slightly used with 80% tread remaining, only $240 for 4.
With 15,000 miles and only four track days I did a quick check of the tires after each run at Big Willow, in 105 degrees heat. My Mechanic was doing prep for Buttonwillow this weekend and called saying I needed new tires. Big argument later, him saying I can’t get the car until I get new tires, and me saying OK I’ll check it out. OMG! ˝” wide, 2” long gash down to the white threads! Each tire has gashes down to the threads. By chance, parked in the right spot, the tires look fine.
Bad – Potenza marbling at high speed, high heat. Must have been the rocks on track.
Good – Potenza not blowing up in your face at high speed + 100 mile drive home.
Simple but important, check , oil, water, tires and lug nuts after each run.

 

4 track days + 6 months daily driving on the Dunlops and they've still got plenty of life on them.

 

How about 6 four session track days and 18 months of daily driving on Dunlops. Still have a few more track days left on them.

 

Tell me about it. I bought a set of close-out S-03's and they're going to sit in the garage much longer than anticipated before getting mounted. These Dunlops last.

 

I think they last because they arent that soft.

AKA: they aren't that sticky.

I'm going to get my S-03's installed and keep my Dunlops for later.

I'll let ya know what I think.

 

Correct. The UTQG on the stock Dunlops is: 280 AA A
Not all that sticky, yet sticky enough for a street tire- anything under 300 performs decently enough, with competitive street tires hovering around the 200 range.

The UTQG for the S-03's is: 220 AA A